Newby - Power, controller, track question

[pitts2112]

Hello!
Another newby here with questions that have probably been asked a million times but I haven't had much luck finding the answers in the forum or anywhere else.

I'm building my first O Gauge set, cobbling pieces from here and there.  I'm trying to keep costs low and flexibility high.  To that end, I'd like to buy a new loco and electrics, but use original tube track because there are millions of miles of it in every antique store, so it's cheap, and I like the traditional look.  My questions are:

1.  Am I correct in assuming the Bachmann Williams line is just their brand of standard O gauge, compatible with Lionel, etc?

2.  For a stereotypical "train around the XMas tree", is tube track a good choice with modern locos?  I'm not looking for DCC now but may in the future.

3.  I really like the Baldwin 4-6-0 steam loco, product #40607.  The product description doesn't say it's DCC, but it also doesn't give much info at all, so I'm assuming it's straight DC.   What combination of power supply and/or controller would I need in order to use the smoke, bell, and other features?  What is Trueblast 11?  I can't find a description, only products, and don't know what it needs to control it.

Any info and other tips will be greatly appreciated!

[jward]

I am not an O guager, so others will be able to provide more insight.


In answer to Question 3 anything with 3 rails is AC not DC. this distinction is very important. AC and DC motors are not compatable, and the use of a DC controller to power an AC locomotive will probably damage the motor. I know for a fact that AC will cause damage to a DC motor.

Another thing to understand with 3 rail is that unlike 2 rail track where the rails are opposite polarities and must be insulated from each other, the outer rails of 3 rail do not have to be insulated from each other, and in the case of older tubular track they may not be. But the center rail must be insulated from the outer two to prevent a short circuit. SInce you are buying secondhand track cheap from antique shops and flea markets, you should invest in a cheap multimeter that you can find in any auto parts or hardware store. Use the ohms setting to make sure that the center rail is insulated from the others on every piece of track you buy BEFORE you use them.

I have seen WIlliams locomotives operating at train shows on the same layouts as Lionel, so I assume they are compatable. But like I said, I am not an O guager, and much more knowledgable about DC two rail trains than 3 rail AC. Others should be better able to answer your other questions.

[pitts2112]

In answer to Question 3 anything with 3 rails is AC not DC. this distinction is very important. AC and DC motors are not compatable, and the use of a DC controller to power an AC locomotive will probably damage the motor. I know for a fact that AC will cause damage to a DC motor.

That's a good point.  That's probably my error referencing DC rather than AC.  There's bugger-all info on the product page but someone familiar with the hobby probably already knows this stuff.  Thanks for the reply on this and circuit testing track.  I wouldn't have thought of that.  Clearly I have a lot to learn!

[trainman203]

Assembling a train set and trying to save money by purchasing random pieces at yard sales and eBay with no knowledge of anything is probably one of the riskiest things you can do.  The above veteran poster has offered valuable knowledge and insights.  If you want a trouble free entry into Model Railroading, my advice is to splurge and buy a complete Train set that you like. Then, with the helpful advice you always find here, add compatible pieces as you go

[Len]

I am not an O guager, so others will be able to provide more insight.
In answer to Question 3 anything with 3 rails is AC not DC. this distinction is very important. AC and DC motors are not compatable, and the use of a DC controller to power an AC locomotive will probably damage the motor. I know for a fact that AC will cause damage to a DC motor.

If the power source can handle the current draw, operating three rail locos with DC will not harm them. What it will do is trigger the sound system if it is equiped with one. On locos with digital sound boards, one polarity will trigger the horn/whistle, the opposite polarity will trigger the bell if equiped with one. Even the old 3-pole motors in "post war" locos will operate on DC, but you'll probably want to disconnect the whistle/horn if you do.

Len

[jward]

I stnad corrected re: AC motors on Dc. The Ac motors I studied in school were controlled by varying the AC frequency rather than the voltage the way you would a DC motor. Len, what effect does varying the DC voltage have on an AC motor?

[Len]

Varying the voltage just changes the speed of the loco. The post-war Lionel and American Flyer locos used what was known as a "universal" motor. They would operate on AC or DC and the direction would change when the reversing unit was triggered by momentarily cutting the current off. As I mentioned earlier, the problem with using DC is you pretty much had to disconnect any whistle or horn to keep it from operating all the time.

Modern 3-rail locos actually use DC motors. To maintain compatibility with older locos an electronic reversing unit that converts AC applied to the track into DC for the motors is used. These reversing units will just pass DC through to the motors, but again and sound function will be constantly triggered unless disconnected.

Because they have DC motors, some folks who only have modern locos pull the AC to DC reverse unit and install DCC decoders rated for G scale trains and operate them using DCC control.

Len