Skewers used for uncoupling?

[hotrainlover]

Dear Board,
I have heard of using skewers to uncouple trains.  I tried, but it seems that I have missed something....  I think the skewers need to be sanded to a particular angle, or something, for this to work.

Has others tried this?  My track is complete, scenery is finished,and do not want to tear it up to use magnets. 

Thanks for the help!!

[rogertra]

Buy some skewers and try sanding them down so that they fit between the couplers and or experiment until you get it right.

[Frisco]

Tooth-picks work verry well.

[Yampa Bob]

Sand the end down to resemble a tiny tapered screwdriver, insert into the couplers and gently twist to open them.

[the Bach-man]

Dear All,
Micro-Mark makes an uncoupling tool that works reliably.
Happy Holidays!
the Bach-man

[THB-DAVE]

You do not have to tear up anything to use Kadee magnetic uncouplers.
Just used Kadee number 321 delayed uncouplier magnets attached to the tie tops with track nails on the beveled ends. I have done it for 30 years. They work great and if you want to move the magnet just pull up ther nails and move it, nothings easier.
Dave

[hotrainlover]

Thanks for the responses.  I will look into the magnets for the tie tops, Dave.  Also, thanks for the answers on the skewers!!

[pdlethbridge]

depending if you have code 100 or code 83, kadee makes a magnet for both, top of tie installation.
code 100, #321, code 83, #322 go to this link for more info
http://www.kadee.com/htmbord/uncoupl.htm

[Guilford Guy]

On the Hub Div, we have two uses for skewers... We use them to uncouple cars (Kadee #5's) and to punish visitors hands found on the layout!

[ebtbob]

Good Evening All,

      I use the skewers as uncoupling tools and do no sanding,  shaping,  etc.    The only thing I might do after some time is to put a very small amount of graphite on the tip.
       The trick to using the skewer is to have the slack in the couplers bunched - not stretched.   With the slack bunched,  the knuckles are already in the open position to some extent.   Also,  if you rotate the skewer and the uncoupling does not occur,  then try rotating the skewer in the opposite direction.

Bob

[CNE Runner]

I have been using skewers for years and have found that is the only [reliable] way to go. You don't need to sand or reshape. Follow EBTBOB's suggestion as to rotation. I have "neutered" all my couplers by snipping off those ridiculous looking trip pins...with skewers you don't need them. A bag of skewers from Big Lots or Wally World will last you a lifetime and are cheap. Regarding Kadee magnetic uncoupling ramps: I recently made the claim that those uncoupling ramps/magnets (or whatever they are called) do not work reliably. Whilst at a large club operating session I personally observed several operators complaining about those magnets. I am not a big fan of Kadee couplers and I gave up on delayed uncoupling years ago. I understand MTH has a process by which one can uncouple cars, anywhere on the layout, remotely via their DCS system...now that would be cool...too bad that doesn't work with DCC.

[Atlantic Central]

A few thoughts, based on my 40 years of using Kadee couplers:

The track magnets work well if, and only if, all your equipment is in top notch condition, and your cars are not too free rolling. Free rolling cars can easily drift back not allowing the operation to be complete.

Also, sticky couplers, weak centering springs, couplers not level, mismatched heights, etc, will effect operation over track magnets.

If you don't believe they work, buy five Kadee freight cars, take them out of the box, don't weather them or mess with them, and test them on a straight piece of track with a track magnet.

Variations from brand to brand of rolling stock and the "generic" couplers they come with insure that they DO NOT WORK.

None of the generic knuckle couplers work as well as Kadee, and they all interchange poorly with each other when it comes to automatic uncoupling.

Most all the serious (there I go again) operation minded modelers I know use some sort of manual "pick", like the skewer, for uncoupling. A few have installed electromagnet uncouplers and like them.

I install only genuine Kadee couplers with the regular, not the scale size head, on ALL my rolling stock. I believe in operational reliablity first, appearance second. These are operating models, not shelf queens.

Most of my uncoupling is done manually with a tool like the skewer (the other end of my special tool is used to throw my own special turnout ground throws), and I get good coupling performance even on most curves (my curves are large - 36"R +, most equipment short - 75 scale feet or less).

Sheldon

[Yampa Bob]

They may no longer be available, but in addition to the skewers, I have a tool that looks like a horseshoe with a handle, small magnets glued to the sides, a 1/2" gap between them. It was made by "Rix Products", the dealer I bought it from called it a "Rix Pick".  If the couplers are bunched, it works fairly well.

I also use the skewers to reach across my small layout to throw manual turnouts.

[pdlethbridge]

they still make them
http://www.modeltrainstuff.com/Rix_Products_HO_0014_Uncoupling_Tool_p/rix-0014.htm

[Yampa Bob]

Thanks for the link.

The magnets are loose in the package, you have to glue them on with rubber cement.  The magnet ends sit on the rails, if running DCC you can fasten a GOW bulb to the plastic bridge, and metal wipers to contact the rail heads.  That would help to see and double as a test light.  I haven't done it yet, just a thought.

If the cars are directly in front of me, I usually just lift one car enough to uncouple, not very realistic but effective.