The spectrum Decapods

[jr switch]

  Within the past three months, I have ordered five Spectrum engines. A 4-8-2 Heavy mountain, an SD45, and three Decapods. The first 2-10-0, from Hobbyfrenzy, ran perfectly for two months then quit. Checked the connections, tracks and wheels are clean, wheels are on the track correctly. Turn on the power, nothing happens. Next two Decapods from Micro-mark, the first runs fine, the one I got today won't run. So, two out of three are being sent back to Bachmann. Is there some sort of common problem with the Decapods? My Bachmann 4-8-4, 2-8-0, ten wheeler, SD45 and the second Decapod all work perfectly. Any suggestions?Information?
    Thanks, ---John R

[rallygsc]

Hello John


that's odd.

I had a K-4 that had a similar problem, for some reason the side rods were binding and stopping the engine, and they were tight.

so I took them apart and noticed warpage, I put it back together and sent it to bachmann, and it came back as good as new.

take care
George

[lanny]

I purchased a Spec Decapod that was 'DCC ready' from Trainworld about a year ago. It was absolutely mint never unwrapped out of the box. I put it on the track and 'nothing'!

immediately sent it in to Bachmann and received a new replacement back that ran perfectly. Then I sold on eBay :-) because the Russian Dec. is way too small as a model of the ICRR Decapod. I got my money out of it, so came out okay.

that is one of the things I really like about Bachmann ... it may take awhile, but you will get your locomotive fixed or you will get a new, working replacement.

lanny nicolet

[jr switch]

  Thanks George, Lanny, for your comments. I guess I was hoping the Bach Mann would give us a little insight on what the company has found to be the problem with these Decapods. With a two out of three " won't run " average, you would think somebody would be on this and have an answer.
   I'm shipping the second one back to Bachmann tomorrow and I have faith that it will eventually be returned repaired or simply replaced. All have said that this is by far the strongest warranty in the business, so I'm thankful for that and will try to be patient until I get them back----thanks again Guys---------------------John R 

[the Bach-man]

Dear Jr.,
Micro Mark has found that some 2-10-0s have a short in the wiring to the contacts- the solder joints are too thick, shorting on the rear axle. It should be an easy fix; in the meantime, we are looking into it.
I'll keep you posted.
Have fun!
the Bach-man

[rogertra]

Only problem I have with one of them my three 2-10-0s is slipping gears.  The gears don't quite mesh correctly.

[jr switch]

    Bach Mann, I'm thinking rear axle on the tender, correct? I don't know if I want to open up one of these engines, but I would be willing to take the tender apart if it is a do-able repair at home. I'm pretty handy with models and small parts and would like having a fix for this due to I really like the Decapods and want to keep them running. If you can explain how this repair is being done, I would really appreciate it. Thanks again---John R

[morrisf]

In my decapod, the short was caused by the pick-up wiper system on the locomotive. The solder joints and contact strips inside the retainer plate are touching the axles, thereby shorting the electrical system. Fixing the problem takes about 10 minutes, but it is a delicate operation...

1. Place the locomotive upside-down in a foam cradle.

2. Remove the two tiny screws and the retainer plate that runs across the bottom of the loco frame. Be real careful when doing this, because the fragile pickup wipers are attached to the retainer plate. Note that the two tabs on the rear of the retainer fit into slots in the frame.

3. Use a pencil-tip soldering iron. Unsolder the red lead wire and place a 1/4" long piece of 1/8" diameter heat shrink tubing on this wire. Resolder the connection. Slide the heat shrink tubing over the solder joint. Use a heat gun to shrink the tubing. Be careful not to warp the retainer plate with the heat.

4. Do the same as (3) above with the black lead.

5. Here's the tricky part...GENTLY bow the retainer plate length-wise in an upward direction so that the two narrow bronze strips that run along each edge bow upward as well. Use a tweezer to put a tiny vertical kink in each strip so that they become, in effect, shorter. When you release bow in the retainer, the bronze strips will now be in tension, and will not flop around and touch the axles.

6. Replace the retainer plate on the locomotive. This is a very delicate operation, as the contact wipers need to be relocated in their exact original position and not snag the driver spokes. Be sure to insert the tabs on the back of the retainer plate into the slots in the frame. Just snug down the retainer plate screws...do not overtighten them.

7. Reassemble the engine and tender and enjoy the fine operation of your decapod.


Regards,
Morris

[jr switch]

       Morris, thanks for your response----I have not sent the last Decapod in to Bachmann for repair,so I may try your repair suggestion. This sounds like a repair that may have to made to all my Decapods, so I need to learn how it's done. Thanks again---------------John R

[Isambard]

In my decapod, the short was caused by the pick-up wiper system on the locomotive. The solder joints and contact strips inside the retainer plate are touching the axles, thereby shorting the electrical system. Fixing the problem takes about 10 minutes, but it is a delicate operation...

1. Place the locomotive upside-down in a foam cradle.

2. Remove the two tiny screws and the retainer plate that runs across the bottom of the loco frame. Be real careful when doing this, because the fragile pickup wipers are attached to the retainer plate. Note that the two tabs on the rear of the retainer fit into slots in the frame.

3. Use a pencil-tip soldering iron. Unsolder the red lead wire and place a 1/4" long piece of 1/8" diameter heat shrink tubing on this wire. Resolder the connection. Slide the heat shrink tubing over the solder joint. Use a heat gun to shrink the tubing. Be careful not to warp the retainer plate with the heat.

4. Do the same as (3) above with the black lead.

5. Here's the tricky part...GENTLY bow the retainer plate length-wise in an upward direction so that the two narrow bronze strips that run along each edge bow upward as well. Use a tweezer to put a tiny vertical kink in each strip so that they become, in effect, shorter. When you release bow in the retainer, the bronze strips will now be in tension, and will not flop around and touch the axles.

6. Replace the retainer plate on the locomotive. This is a very delicate operation, as the contact wipers need to be relocated in their exact original position and not snag the driver spokes. Be sure to insert the tabs on the back of the retainer plate into the slots in the frame. Just snug down the retainer plate screws...do not overtighten them.

7. Reassemble the engine and tender and enjoy the fine operation of your decapod.


Regards,
Morris

I had a similar shorting with a 2-10-0 received from MicroMark in December (my fourth "Russian"), due to bowing of the phosphor bronze strips. I tried to  insert a plastic insulator (narrow rectangular camera film strip with cutout for gear wheel) between the bronze strips and the axles, without success - ended up binding on the gear wheel or dragging on the axles too much. I managed to "shorten" the bronze strips a bit by bending upwards away from the axles and re-assembled.

This appeared to work, however then while attempting to unplug  the loco to tender connectors for the first time to do some further work, one of the wires on the main connector broke off right at the connector. The connector fit seemed unusually tight. Not having the parts, tools or skills to repair I sent the loco and tender back to Bachmann on 29 January.

I'm waiting to hear from them. Several recent emails asking Customer Support for confirmation of receipt of the loco have not been answered - guess a phone call is needed. It's interesting how businesses set up E mail contact systems but don't seem to staff them adequately, whereas phoning (not always convenient) seems to get a response.

[the Bach-man]

Dear Isambard,
By all means give service a call. They will be able to give you an ETA, and let you know if the issue is awaiting parts from China, which is likely in this case...
Thanks!
the Bach-man

[GN.2-6-8-0]

I too bought a Bachmann H.O 2-10-0 from Micro Mark with the same results.
This one of the DCC/Sound equipted locomotives, Ran beautifully for about 40 ft.....then it went stone cold dead .Have to say the sound which still works is truly awesome, but obvious Bachmann has quality control issues that have failed miserable, Imagine a locomotive that costs between $150-$200 that looks and sounds this beautiful unable to in many case's even run right out of the box.
After reading this thread and seeing a similar problem involving a Bachmann Lt 2-10-2 belonging to another club member I'm wondering what the Odd's are of exchanging it for one that will run properly as it should...... or should i just get a refund and look at another brand of locomotive.

And yes the repair instructions here may be very helpful but on something brand new right out of the box!......again' Quality control people!! It shouldn't have to be our responsability to correct the manufacturer's production screwups.

[GN.2-6-8-0]

BUMP!

[the Bach-man]

Dear GN,
Simply return your loco to Philadelphia. They'll be happy to replace it.
Have fun!
the Bach-man

[jr switch]

Mr. Bach Mann---One of the three Decapods I had, is still running ok. As stated earlier , the other two were sent in for repair or replacement. They, Bachmann, are replacing those two with something else. Worked out fine for everyone.
      Four or five others from this, and other forums, are curious as to when we can expect the re-engineered Decapods to become availiable. Bachmann is great about replacing a loco with a problem, but we are wanting Decapods we don't have to repair at home or send back. I intend to buy at least two more as soon as this problem is corrected.
       Thank you for any answers you can give us-------------John R