Absolutely correctly, Doneldon.  I should have mentioned that I stop all trains and unplug the power from the wall before I move to another area of the setup where I can re-connect the EZC.  And as you guys have come to know, is that my terminology is still way off.  But I'm trying my best to understand it all, all hopefully help others whenever I can.  I'll have to figure out what a power buss with feeders is, but I'n thinking that is what I meant by my terminology of a re-railer.  All my re-railers include a port to plug the EZC into.  They help with keeping certain problem locos and tenders on the track, so I have a bunch of them.  And they help us connect the EZC to another area of the setup.  That's all I was trying to explain.  The walk-around companion has always been connected to the EZC, so again this is why I suggested they work in tandem alone, and not as separate units.  Thanks for the help, D-.

I have it as well.  Whenever my son and I wish to drive our own trains, it sure makes it handy.  But the E-Z Command Controller HAS to be the lead controller wherever you wish to plug the unit into a re-railer around your setup.  We have three re-railer points on our setup where we can plug our E-Z Command Controller into.  But the walk-around controller can only follow wherever you plug the E-Z Command into.  It's not a separate entity at all.

I always find it better to actually SEE what is being explained, rather than try and guess at what is being explained.  Here's a few basic idea-clips for converting to DCC:

http://youtu.be/Hgr3l_CkaDc  -  *TIPS* How to DCC a non-DCC Ready Locomotive

http://youtu.be/xMnY_5ORxT0   -  How to Convert a DC lococomotive to DCC Made Easy

http://youtu.be/p-CyiPhvEds  -  DCC Corner: How to Install a DCC Decoder into a Locomotive

These are just a few of many I've seen on YouTube about getting you locos to DCC Ready or converted fully to DCC with decoder, but I always come back here to talk with the experts when I experience difficulties, as these gents are very good at explaining their crafts.  Good Luck!

Thanks Bill1462,

At least it's a starting point as to what WAS working for you compared to using the E-Z Command Controller.  Unfortunately I have no expertise with this controller.  It looks like a standard DC controller, but I like the momentum feature it promotes.  I was hoping it was a Bachmann 46605A Analog controller as it can work in conjunction with your E-Z Command Controller.  Hope you've had more luck tinkering with the E-Z Command.

In your second post, you mentioned that you have an ANALOG controller where you CAN hear the engine sound while it's running.  Can you find on that controller what the model # is?  Not the #44901.

As for the headlight, Hunt explained it well.  Just make sure that if you were using the GG-1 at address #1, make sure the #1 is selected, then press the FUNCTION key to make the #1 now flash.  Then press the #10.  The headlight should now illuminate.  Press the #10 again to turn it off, as if testing it.  As Hunt says, make sure the FUNCTION key has been pressed first and the locomotive's address # light is flashing for the locomotive's decoder features to be utilized.  Note that in the decoder assignments that Hunt listed for you, that #8 does mute the sounds.  If all sounds seem off, just check that the sounds are NOT muted.  Usually removing the locomotive from the track and then placing it back on correctly resets the decoder, so the initial sounds should start up again and the headlight once again is off.

Just curious whether your Bachmann GG-1 was purchased new, or from someone who had the engine converted to a sound locomotive?  See if you can run the GG-1 under the address of #10 which is associated to DC analog locomotives.  Don't program it to #10, just select #10 on the controller and then try the GG-1.  Be cautious not to run it for too long, as the DCC controller is not meant to run DC engines as was stated from the Bachmann videos Yardmaster suggested (not Yardman as I posted earlier....sorry Yardmaster).  I'm positive there are DC engines that have sounds, but I obviously have yet to try one.  Perhaps the only sounds available to you by the decoder installed is the running sound.  As for your other locos, I have similar Bachmann A & B units as yours that I had sound decoders placed into both.  Each one I had changed their addresses to #9 so that they would run together.  To change the address for each, I made sure one locomotive was on the track alone.  All others were taken off.  Unit A was originally #3, so I made sure the #3 was pressed while the loco was on the track.  Once selected, I pressed down the #3 again WHILE pressing the stop button, then released them both.  The stop button should now be flashing fast.  Choose the new address # you want your loco to be on.  The loco moves noticeably to confirm it's changed to the new numbered address you chose.  Press the forward direction button (above the speed knob) to choose which way you want it to move initially, and then press the stop button again to exit the format.  Now select the new address # and see that it moves your A unit.  If all was successful, while on the new address #, stop the loco.  Press the other directional button (reverse) and verify if the loco can now move backwards.  If all goes well, stop to loco and remove it from the tracks.  Do the exact same procedure to Unit B making sure that you choose the same address # as Unit A so that they can run in tandem.  I'm thinking part of the problem was that you kept more than one locomotive on the track at one time while trying to reconfigure the new addresses.  I could be wrong, but it's a guess as I saw one of your responses say, "No, I only had one engine, the GG-1, on the track..."

If this doesn't work still, please try the support number Yardmaster suggested, or watch the videos carefully.  There's a bundle of info in there that taught me a lot about this controller and all its capabilities.  Also, can you post the model # of your analog controller?  If it's the one I'm thinking of, it can work in conjunction with your #44901 using a black cable that plugs from one controller into the other.  That way you gain an extra address (#10) while being able to use the analog controller to continue to run your DC locos.  One more thing, is there an ON/OFF slide switch on the back of the #44901?  I use that to turn off my controller during the day, but I always unplug it completely every night.  Good Luck!

I use the same controller.  Everything is explained in the videos provided above by Yardman or by the CD that should have come with the controller.  They are one in the same.  Sounds and such are provided by the type of locomotive you've purchased.  I have three DCC sound locomotives.  The rest are mostly just DCC locos without sound installed.  Once a sound loco is placed on the track, the sounds will start automatically.  Each button on the controller signifies a different sound that the decoder, installed within the locomotive, will activate.  Remember that the yellow FUNCTION button needs to be pressed and the light flashing next to the locomotives address #, even if it's #3, for the different sounds to be heard.  Click the FUNCTION button again to turn off the flashing light to resume normal control of the locomotive.  I understand that there are higher-end controllers (like Digitrax) that will play even more sounds according to the type of sound decoder installed within the locomotive.  Of course, with more 'candy' to the controller or locomotive, look for the unit to be higher in price.  This controller, its extensions, and DCC E-Z Track layout works great for our budget.  The kids love it as do I!  I hope that helps a bit...

Definitely something amiss there.  I can turn the dial quite easily on mine.  There's some resistance, but not to the degree you speak of.

I got a message from a parts guy saying that he would recommend a 2-56 machine screw to make this bracket connection complete.  I would prefer to ask the gents in THIS forum if they think this part might get the job done.  I know nothing of screws but want to get this figured out.  Thanks for any advice.

Even I'd be willing to see the list of components for that setup, jward.  Can you post them regardless?  I'm thinking something other than E-Z track though, as I have a tough time with Bachmann switches, and there seems to be a boat-full in this sketch.  I heard that Kato Unitrack is more consistent for switching track successfully.  And with my 4-8-4 issues, I'd like to see what you might recommend for turns slightly better than 22 radius, which my 4-8-4 still has issues with.  My young son and I often change our setups, thus the Unitrack suggestion.  Nothing stays the same for more than a few weeks.

TY

I'm kind of a newbie myself, yet I've been around HO trains now for about 5 years off and on.  Right now I am back into it trying to get some trains and setups working like they did a few years ago.  The first thing I came to understand about model trains and specifically Bachmann (as I am on a tight budget) is the difference between a DC locomotive and a DCC locomotive.  With DC engines on the same track or connecting track, the engines will move all at the same speed and stop at the same time using your controller.  This can change with certain track like Kato Unitrack and their switch power connection technology, but with the E-Z track that came with your sets, the trains will run and stop as one.

With DCC, engines have decoders that allow you to run the trains individually on the same track.  You will also need a DCC controller that will allow you to run these individual trains on separate channels. Bachmann's E-Z Command Controllers are an inexpensive way to use your trains individually so long as they are locomotives that have the DCC decoder.  Here's a small video I made a few years ago that explains my simple setup using DCC technology:

http://youtu.be/OCDeYgEQO_s

I also have a simple video that shows us switching the inner circled train to the outer track, and vice-versa.  These kind of maneuvers just aren't possible with the controllers that came with your sets, or the locomotives.  I hope I was able to show a little bit about the difference between the two technologies, and what you need to make your trains run opposite of each other.  I know experienced individuals on here can probably explain this way better than I can, especially with your layout question.  Best of luck with everything.

Nevermind...the front engine let go again during the test.  Need to find a way to secure that bolt.   

Not in the slightest, YM.  I swear it was a shot in the dark as I was out of ideas.  Believe me, I was afraid to touch the engine three years ago when this first happened, afraid I'd make it much worse somehow, as I know nothing of building or re-building trains.  And my terminology definitely needs a brush-up.  You all seem to talk with such confidence about everyone's train model issues and getting them resolved, so much so that I knew I'd come here with this tough 1967 (as I understand it when this locomotive was manufactured) problem that someone might be able to help me with.  Two things happened.  I got feedback, and I got some confidence to work this out on my own.  I'll take all the "wise" man advice any day.  Thank you guys for being here to help us ALL continually!!  I'll be back with another question soon enough!

I can't thank the people that offered help to me in this non-Bachmann topic.  It seems I may have figured it out.  If you were to notice the Photobucket pictures I uploaded, that first pic was of a "supposed" feeder screw of some sort.  Well if you look close enough at it, there are a few screw indentations on it, and they actually fit in the smaller hole on the plate in picture #5.  Now it barely gets through the plate so I'm still thinking there has to be some sort of screw that secures that connection, but in the mean time it is holding the front engine to the bottom of the loco once I fastened the other screw into the other hole on that same plate.  I have yet to test it but at least it's now back together.  For how long who knows.  Thanks again!

Thanks for your reply, but I think you may not understand the direction of the screw I am searching for, or maybe I'm just bad at explaining it.  Pictures 2, 3,and 4 that I posted from Photobucket are me showing the assembly required to create the "catch" on to the 'front engine' (as I now understand it to be).  Picture 2 was me showing the loop on the front engine and the pieces I need to create the complete assembly.  The bracket you talk of should have shown all 3 holes on it (my bad).  Two of them are used to connect both the horizontal bar and the loop on the front engine.  The third hole is the evident one in those pictures and it faces vertically up with the feeder screw held in there by the hole itself and resting on the connected horizontal bar.  This is where I'm looking for the tiny screw required to connect down from the plate under the loco and into that third hole of the bracket where the feeder screw resides.

However, I'm thinking that I need to assemble the horizontal bar lastly into the front engine loop with the loco inverted, so that the bracket, the phantom tiny screw, and the feeder screw hold together with the front engine just resting there UNTIL I get get that horizontal bar connected through that bracket and the front engine loop.  The other vertical hole on the bracket is threaded in order to receive the horizontal bar.  So as I see it, I just need to find this small screw to fit vertically down in the feeder screw to get the bracket and plate holding together (part #31).  I sure hope that made a tad more sense.