Bachmann is over all doing a great job for the hobby and I own many of their locomotives so please don't misunderstand what I am saying? I only offer this as a suggestion to make their product better! Just out of curiosity I just went to a competator's web site to see how they handle their #6 switch (turnout) with their track system? The possibiliies are impresive! For example, they sell special track pieces for the #6 that not only brings it back to parellel with the mainline but also makes both ends of the turnout end up being the same length! This allows a double ended siding with the same number of straight sections on both sections of track between the turnouts. This sort of kills two birds with one stone! Bachmann has been very inovative but this is one time it would be to their benifit and ours for them to look at what the competition is doing?

Joe,

The partial 18"R does come the closest but using an 18R on a #6 switch seems a little absurd? I just can't imagine how Bachmann could not have seen this coming? It is a very common requirement for any mainline passing siding where large motive power and rolling stock is used? To me there is not much point in offering a #6 switch that can't be brought back to parallel the mainline? Cutting out a chunk in the middle of an 26R or 28R and then soldering and gluing back together could be done but why bother? Just use different track!

Geoff

Hello Joe,
Thanks for the tip! I just got through playing with the software a bit. It really is kind of cool! According to what I can determine using the software, a half 26"R or a half 28"R would be pretty close? However, Bachman does not make such an animal unless I just cant find it? The one third 18"R appears to come the closest to providing a parallel track but and 18"R used with a #6 switch is a bit counter productive.

Thanks again!

That is really not an option for a "break down" test track that can be set up anywhere there is a flat surface. On my main layout I use nothing but flex track and good quality switches on cork or Homosote. Thanks for taking the time to respond!

I am trying to make up a medium length point to point "break down" test track with a single or double ended parallel siding using EZ Track? Apparently, there is nothing "easy" about the seemingly common task of bringing a track out of a switch and running it parallel to the main? Parallel sidings should be no big deal and I have been eyeing one or two EZ Track #6 turnouts for my siding. After spending a lot of time on line, on the Bachmann site and on this forum,  I was amazed that I could find no satisfactory answer? I read a lot of opinions and suggestions, "part of a 22" radius" or "part of a 26"" radius and even a suggestion of "part of an 18" radius?" On a #6 switch? Right? From what I have read here, there is no information in the Bachmann track book either? So Mr. Bachmann or any one else who really knows? What parts do I need to buy to assemble my siding? I would settle for a single ended but would prefer a double ended if possible?

Hello all! Does anyone know the shipping weight of the Fn3, 20.3:1  K-27 in the boxes with all packaging including the outer shipping carton? Thank you!

I had ordered a 2-6-6-2T from my local hobby shop for $650.00. I went and picked it up yesterday, and when I got it home, I was quite upset with the appearance of the locomotive. I had odered a #82895 Yellow Pine Lumber version specifically because I liked the red window frames in the cab but do not like all the pin striping and white sidewalls on the wheels that most of the other versions have. The picture on the box is the same one used on Bachmann's site with the red window frames, absolutely no pin striping and black wheels. It just so happens that my #82895 Yellow Pine Lumber has pin striping on the cylinders and white walls on all the wheels! When I use the manufacturer's picture to determine which version to buy I believe it is reasonable for those pictures to reflect the actual product I am ordering. I own a lot of Bachmann products and over all I am pleased with what they do but this really ******* me off! Now unless this is a mistake? My only choice seems to be return it for an all black undecorated version?

I do not do anything to change CV's until I know the Unit is OK! Then I usually confine myself to the address and souns levels. I have quite a few BLI locomotives and several Proto 2000 steamers as well. I also have two TRIX Big Boys and one Mike along with an Intermountain AC12. None of them had any problems right out of the box accept the AC12, it was a little tight. For the most part they all ran like a Swiss watch right out of the box. Only my many Bachmanns either run great or run like crap with out much in the middle. I have also found that the ones that run crappy usually don't get much better. I have three 2-10-2's. Two run well and this last one runs absolutely terrible. The Susquhana Mike ran for a short time and now just buzzes. I will run the Mike on DC and possibly do a decoder reset. If that does not work I will send the Mike and the 2-10-2 to Bachmann for repair or replacement!

I just purchased 4 HO Spectrum locomotives. All have DCC on board and one has sound. I have a 4-4-0 that runs pretty well for not being broke in and I have a 2-10-0 with sound that would not hardly move out of the box but with some patience and a little lurication, it is running better all the time. I also bought a Chinese Susquahana Mikado than ran for a few seconds and now just sits and buzzes? Finally, I  bought a 2-10-2 that jerks down the track and runs terribly. Any suggestions on the two I am having broblems with? I am running an NCE sytem.

Does anyone know if the K-27 will clear the 3.5in brass swich stand that mounts to the Sunset Valley Track Narrow Gauge #6 turnout?

It all depends on what you are trying to do. If all you want to do is build a small layout or a layout where you want to watch a couple of trains run while you or a friend does some switching than DC is fine. However, if you want more complicated multi user operation you should consider DCC. I have been in this hobby for a long time and have wired a large DC block type layout for running multiple trains and it is a pain compared to DCC and even then you can't approach the flexability of DCC.

From a realism standpoint there is a very fundamental difference between the two. In DC you operate the track in DCC you actually operate the trains! Again it all depends on what you want to do. The more complex your operations are going to be the more you should lean towards DCC.

With DCC you can run multi head trains with different locomotive because you can "Speed Match" totally different locomotives to run together. You can run a helper service. You can run 20 trains on the same track at differant speeds in different directions. You can adjust start, mid and max voltage on each locomotive. You can change the acceleration curve, momentum and so many other things, just too many to mention here. There are also some sound functions you can't get with DC. You can also run DCC and use non of these features.

I am building a large 17ft x 34ft HO layout with an NCE Power Pro DCC System. I will be having operating sessions with 5 to 8 people running the railroad. I could not imagine doing this with DC. On the other hand there will also be a logging shortline operation and a mine railroad as seperate one person operations. They will most likely be DC because I see no operational benifit to spending money for decoders for these locomotives  that will never be required to travel on the main line. Of coarse there will be safety features to prevent a locomotive from crossing between DCC and DC track.

Like the gentleman who has 150 DC locomotives there is no way I would switch to DCC. However, if you are just starting out, don't have much equipment and have decided that model railroading is for you, I would go DCC!

I wonder about that myself. Most younger people I have come across seem to want more instant gratification with video games etc. Short term entertainment. Something you can pick up, do it and put it down again. Model railroading takes time and patience. Even a medium size pike can take years of work. It also requires a certain amount of commitment to the hobby. Today everything seems to be getting more temporary and generaly speaking model railroading is not the most portable hobby. I also don't see young boys learning to use there hands on woodworking or mechanical projects with their fathers as much as when I was a boy. I have always had a passion to build and tinker and I have always enjoyed working with my hands. In my opinion working with your hands is a must for a model railroader unless you have someone else build your railroad, and then, what's the point? It is the most multi facetted hobby and will provide you with a lifetime of learning. I just think that kind of commitment and sence of permanence is becoming more rare. Who is going to start a railroad in the basement if you may have to move again next year? One thing is for sure, I would not want to compete with one of todays youngsters on a flight simulator or even MS Trains! By the way, no intention of slighting the ladies, there are some, but very few in our hobby. Id like to see more!

I want to thank those who have taken the time to respond. I am very knowledgable about HO but I am new to Fn3 and it is very frustrating having to learn so much. As fare as motive power it seems Bachmann is the only afordable game in town. I have a 2-8-0, a 38 ton Shay and a K-27 on the way. The 2-8-0 and the Shay are beautiful and I will keep my fingers crossed that I have no problems with them. Thanks again!

Austin,
Thanks for the reply! We are almost neighbors as I am in Longview, WA.
I recently purchased several Accucraft frieght cars on eBay and I have to tell you the are very impressive and not a single problem with any of them. That's one reason why I am upset. I buy one Bachmann box car and it has several issues out of the box. It was also $10.00 more.
Geoff.

I was just looking around on eBay and came across a fantastic weathering job on a K-27. I already have one ordered but I kept the pictures as a reference. If you want to see an absolutely awesome K-27 look at this listing #150215915145 to get some ideas.