I've been out of town and partly out of touch for a couple of days.  Thanks for the input.

As Jim and Len recommended, I unscrewed the metal plate covering the solenoid mechanism, but found it was still sealed. Instead of coming off, the plate remained attached to the physical throws.  Len had warned about removing the plate that covered these throws (see above comment).  By that time, I had already removed it and had a bit of a challenge putting it back together.  (BTW, the top two holes on the housing appear to be rivets, not screws, rendering the unit sealed.)

Not wanting to go through that again, I screwed the metal plate back to the turnout housing.

I understand the way to solve the original problem posted in this thread.  Locate the two wires that control the solenoid.  Ah, but there's the rub.  I don't know which two wires out of the five sprouting from the decoder are the ones.

But I've narrowed it down to the gray, the brown, and one of the reds (the one not going to power the frogs, which seems to be the function of the orange and the other red).  See this picture:


Notice the orange and top red wires going to the frogs.

This closeup shows the decoder:


Check my logic.

The red and orange wires on the right power the frogs.

The other three from the top are gray, the other red, and the brown.  They are soldered to the L1, +, and L2, according to the stamped ID on the decoder.  My guess is that the other red (attached to the +) is the common?  The L1 (gray) and L2 (brown) control the throwing of the solenoid.

This is an upside-down shot that lets you see a different angle:
   

Does this reasoning sound right?

Yes.  Thanks to Jim, too.  He suggested it earlier in the thread.  He also shared a video about connecting the wires. Rather than splicing them, you just remove a bit of the insulation, wrap the connecting wire around it, and solder the connection.

Very helpful, indeed.  I might be able to do that.

I guess it doesn't matter which wire controls the divergent or main.  I could just switch the connections to the push buttons on my panel. 

Jim, also made that very helpful suggestion.

Thanks, Jim.

Thanks, Len, I'll look under there.  Sounds like more trouble than I want to take on.

Thought I'd post the pics I took this afternoon of the Bachmann EZ Command DCC Turnout -  Right - Item No. 44131

I removed the screws for the plate in the back that covers the physical switching mechanism on the right.  The decoder is on the left covered with tape.  The electronic switching mechanism is in the center:




This is a close-up of the wires leading from the decoder on the left into the electronic switching mechanism.  I removed the black tape for the shot.  Underneath the wires are metal frog connectors.




This is a close up of the physical switcher on the right.




It seems to me that it would be beyond my capabilities to adapt this turnover and two others, much less two DCC crossovers, so that I could control the turnout and lights from my control panel.

On the other hand, I'm fully capable of having construed all of this wrong and that the answer might be much simpler than it appears to my unpracticed eye.

I would hope an answer I can follow is posted in this thread.  

Ken

Thanks, Jim, but the instructions' link in Jerry's post is for the non-DCC powered turnouts.  Wires are attached to those.  In a DCC turnout or crossover, the wires are hidden in plastic compartments under the unit--at least for the turnout I checked.  Before I moved ahead with this idea, I was just wondering which wires did what.  The other post that Jerry had is probably what I need--the green wire needs to connect to both momentary switches.

Jayre,

jward is right: a quick fix is to get someone else to reprogram the decoders.

But depending on your RR plans, you may want to consider another DCC controller to get the full advantage from DCC that you won't be able to get from the EZ Controller, which was intended for a starter system.

If you wish to stay within Bachmann, they make Dynamis.  I can recommend NCE Power Cab, but there are a few other companies with good DCC controllers.

I have several EZ Track crossovers and turnouts that I would like to be able to control with my control panel buttons or toggles rather than with my NCE Power Cab.  I also want to have red/green light identification for turnout position. 

Before I take apart the  bottom of an  EZ Track turnout, I'd like to know which wire operates what.

I'd appreciate an help with this matter.

jdr,

So much of our comments will depend upon where you are in this hobby and where you want to go. 

What do you have now? 
How much do you want to expand?

Are you running a DCC Bachmann system?  If so, you may want to consider returning the 44561 and purchasing a 44130, which you can control with your EZ Command Controller.  Then there is no need to buy another power supply.

I bought two of these from Bachmann's Repair facility for $18 each (including shipping).  (Look on their website.  The representative I spoke with referred to them as manual turnouts, but they're DCC.  And they seem to have them lying around.)

I bought a Bachmann Alco RS-3 three months ago.  It has DCC on board, but not sound.  Bachmann offers a DCC RS-3 with sound, so I assume there's room within the loco housing for the speaker and the module.   

I've searched through Bachmann's parts inventory under the RS-3 listing, but have not found an appropriate module.  Soundtraxx says they are available and gives a list of dealers.

First, how difficult is it to change the current DCC (non-sound module) for one with sound?

Second, now that I use an NCE Power Cab, should I look for a sound module that allows more features than the Sound Value? 

I read that because of the advent of rugged portable log chippers, chipping of the logs is often done at the logging site and hauled by dump trucks to a rail spur.

In particular, I'm wondering about the arrangement of the three-track spur.

Specifically, is it reasonable that the unloading of logs and the loading of lumber product, whether planks, plywood, or chips take place on that same inside track? 

Or would it be better to rethink the placement of the tracks.

If there's something that needs changing, it's convenient for me to make the changes now. 

Quote from: rogertra on June 01, 2015, 06:21:03 PM
Go to the library and borrow a book on logging in the era you are interested in.  There are lots of books on the subject out there.

Then you can decide what you want to do and how to go about it.

Cheers

Roger T.

That's always a good suggestion, whether research is carried out in libraries or in other ways.

I was wondering about specific suggestions, such as Jeffrey and Len gave, that could help out. 

Thanks, Jeffery.  You're right: the bobcat would be too small to reach those high-sided hoppers. 

I like your ideas of a conveyor belt and a truck dump.

Also when I was looking for hoppers that would carry wood chips, some of them were too long to fit the 18" curves of my layout.  I've seen them more than 60'.  I'm figuring 50' or so is about as long as I can handle on my layout.

This link (http://cs.trains.com/mrr/f/88/t/199266.aspx) indicates old boxcars and gondolas are used, too, not just hoppers.

Thanks, Len. 

You're right. It's a lumber company, similar to the Poinsett Lumber and Manufacturing Company, in the town where I grew up.  It was served by the Pickens Doodle.  The Doodle came up in this forum a few days ago because of a picture I posted of an old Baldwin loco.   

On the other side of the layout, I have the logging operation that feeds this industry.  That logging operation shares a spur line with a granite quarry (does that idea sound familiar?).

Is the way the tracks are arranged in my lumber company work, or would another arrangement be better?

I invite any suggestions.