I have a defective Bachmann HO turnout and when I connect a new turnout switch, it kills the new switch. Using my multi-meter, you normally see nothing from center pole of output to either side pole, until you move the switch, then you momentarily see 16v. After I connect the new turnout switch to my defective turnout, I try to work the switch and nothing. Then I remove the turnout cable from the switch, the voltage now on the new turnout switch outputs poles is reading a constant 16v, both sides and operating the switch does nothing. I killed three turnout switches this way until I learned what is happening. The defective turnout must somehow short out and burn out some type of component in the Bachmann turnout switch???

I can't find any Bachmann turnout switches to buy. Where do I buy them? Or do you recommend another brand of turnout switch? I have 21Bachmann HO EZ Track turnouts (including two crossovers).

Thanks jward

With you information I'm buying a Peco Capacity Dischare unit,

I checked my Bachmann crossover turnout switch and its impossible to hold the button down and continue the flow of electrons. It automatically sends a burst and one can't get it wrong. So how did I burnout those two turnouts?

I'm using a Bachmann 16v transformer that deliviers 18v to all my switches. On the burned out turnout I checked the output on the switch. I disconnected the green cable from the turnout to the switch exposing three bare terminal output connects at the switch. Measuring from the center post to the one on the right, 0v, then center pole to the left, 18v steady, operating the switch does nothing. The exact same thing on the other burned out switch. It appears my wiring the snap switch in parallel and then operating the switch, apparently burned out the turnout and the switch. How can that be possible?, Dang this keeps getting more and more convoluted. Can you help?

HELP!!!

I wired exactly like the diagram, but without the LEDs, additional power & ground. I wanted to test the snap switch before connecting the LEDs.

My turnout switch operated perfect until I added the snap switch, then it wouldn't operate. The snap switch moved slightly but not the turnout. I removed the snap switch and the turnout still would not operate. Using my multi-meter I discovered the turnout switch is now shorting the main power circuit and none of my turnout switches would work. So I disconnected this turnout from the power source and then all switches worked fine.

So I moved to another switch, same problem. Nothing worked after connecting the snap switch in parallel. I removed the snap switch 200 from the turnout and the turnout still would not operate. Somehow it killed the turnout switch. It didn't short  the power source like the other one, but it will not work now.

Why is putting the Atlas 200 snap switch wired in parallel killing my Bachmann turnout switches? I'm using a Bachmann transformer at 16v output.

I'm fairly knowledgeable about electricity and this on has me baffled. How can adding another load (Atlas 200), in parallel, with a very short power burst to operate, kill the other switch? I'm baffled. Can you help?

I have 21 Bachmann turnouts and am going to add 21 Atlas Snap relays to operate 21 block signals (red & green) at each turnout. Do I wire the Snap 200 relays in parallel or in series or combination of both, and how many on a single 16v circuit?

You guys/gals are the true experts and I sure could use some good advice.

Great information, THANKS!

I'm using the Bachmann right and left EZ track turnouts #4 and four Bachmann crossovers.

Thanks, I really appreciate the good information.

Thanks for the information and I hate to show my ignorance but when you refer to filing the point, what point?

I just completed a new train layout and used 100% Bachmann  E  Z Track (HO). My problem is the constant derailments at the crossover. And yes, my track and wheels are clean and brand new. I have weighted the cars to regulation standards. I have a Bachmann Stream Engine and the Tender will derail at the turnout with, or without any additional rolling stock. My diesel engine, running by itself, has no problem.

I've completely given up on trying to go in reverse in these turnout with rolling stock as derailments with rolling stock is 100%. Are these turnouts junk and I made a big mistake or is there some kind of fix or adjustment I can make.?

If this has already been addressed please direct me to that thread of emails. I'm desperate for a solution and need your help, thanks, Jim 

Thanks for your suggestion but I want the signal lights to stay on permanently and my Bachmann turnouts only receive a short burst of current when operating them. So I need to add another permanent power source to the LED, no problem, but I need some kind of switch to attach to the Bachmann turonout.

I just installeld 20 Bachmann turnouts and realized I really need green & red lights to give me the position of the turnout. Can you tell me how to install green & red LED's at each turnout? When I operate the switch I noticed there is a small lever on the side of the turnout that moves (the manual switch). Can I somehow use that to operate a snap switch of some kind. I really need help here.

I watched the Internet on how to do a reverse loop. First; put insulating rail joiners on all four tracks, I got that part, then wire in the polarity reversing module. My question, after the put on all four insulating joiners, can't I just run a new power lead to the now dead section of track (the loop), instead of using the expensive reversing modules?

Sid,

Nothing is painted and no ballast yet.

My layout is "U" shaped in a room 9' * 16'

I have a main run that is "U" shaped and does this loop twice as I have an 8" riser. Total run is about 100'. The 2nd loop is 50'

I have connected and re-connected old Lionel 027 track a million time's as a kid (60 years ago), and I guarantee the rail joiners were abused. The run was about 50" I only ever had one power connecter and it always worked fine.

On another layout last year I bought a Piko ICE train and set up a 4 * 8 layout and only used one power connecter and it works perfectly.

So when I read on various message boards that guys solder every rail joiner and added did power connecters on every track, it seemed like overkill to me. Mechanical pressure connecters (rail joiners) make an absolute great electrical connection and are used on millions of products worldwide. But I'm asking experts here who know by experience and I truly appreciate your valued opinions.

I'm using HO E Z track on a new layout and want to know how often (distance in feet) I need to power the track? Also, do I need to solder the rail joiners?

I need 6" straight track to fit my new layout. Can I cut G gauge, hollow tin (not brass) track. If I can, how do I put on the track connectors and where do I get the plastic track pins? Thanks. Jim D.