No problem.  I made a cut in each of the rails on the cross i.e. in the middle between the straights.  I then filled the gap with an epoxy resin and tested with a meter to check that each section was cut through entirely.  Good luck.

If I can be of any further help when you get started please get in touch.

Have you seen the February issue of Model Railroader, it continues to show the construction of a layout table.  In the next issue (I assume March) there will be an article about laying 'click' track with built-in roadbed.

I assume you mean the layout table?  I used 2" x 2" plain timber for the frame and (what we call in the UK) a sheet of 1/2" MDF (medium density fibreboard), not sure what you call this type of board in the US. I then glued a sheet of soft insulation (what we use under laminate flooring) on to the MDF.  It all seems to be fine.  Then on top of that the grass which comes on a roll.  Good luck.

The crossovers I have did not have breaks in the cross rail, so I had to create my own by cutting the rail so as to isolate each oval.  You will need two crossovers to complete the change from one oval to the other.  I also found that one half of one of my crossovers did not work properly and no matter what I did to get it to work without success.  What I did in the end to create a crossover was to use 2 switches with an isolator at the join. Good luck

I am also running on DC.  I presume that you will have two ovals connected by this crossover. The reason I asked is that the crossover is wired for DCC and not DC. What I had to do was to create a gap in the rail so as to isolate the two ovals with each oval having its own power input in order to run two trains at the same time. Nothing in this game is straight forward.  Apologies for complicating what seems a simple movement.

are you running on DC or DCC

Can I throw my minute bit of knowledge in on E-Z crossovers, I assume that HO and N (my type) work the same?  If you are on DCC the crossovers are set up for this, but, if you are on DC they are not straightforward.  I had to cut the rail in the middle of the crossover so as to isolate them to allow a train to run on each oval at the same time etc.  I also found that the Crossover unit is a lot of money for something that might or might not function properly, I have 2 of them and three of the 4 points work OK the other one causes a short within itself which is unable to be found to rectify it therefore making the unit unusable.  To get round my problem is to connect a L and a R switch together isolated when joining them.  I am new to this game and am learning as I go along and this is a problem I have come up against.

Carl

I am still learning my way round E-Z track, however I have found that with small engines you have to link the frog terminals on the underneath of the turnout.  I have a problem with a crossover unit and am unable to locate the source of the problem.  It shorts when switching the turnout only on one side though.  Not sure if any of this helps.

Thanks for your advice, it has also been suggested that I cut both rails in the centre of the crossover.  As I am new to this game I am (I thought) taking the easy route by going DC but it would appear that each set up has its own challenges.

I have two N Gauge E-Z oval tracks each with its own power supply.  The ovals are connected with a left and a right crossover.  The help I need please, is where do I locate the isolators to enable me to run trains on each oval independently.  A rough sketch with an answer would be appreciated.

1 1/8" and 2 1/4" and 4 1/2" there are 2 pieces of each