Peter,

 I use either Testor's or Tamiya clears, in all flavors...gloss, semi, and flat. All depends on what I'm doing. With any of them, the key is light coats til you get the right coverage.

Howard

   Funny thing is, I've been Harold untold number of times, not Howard....

   Another funny thing, I find any new on30 product a joy, considering we on30 modelers are a teeny, tiny part of the hobby....must be something about the glass being half full.....

   Anyway, I can hardly wait for 'em all....

Howard, not Harold, but an admirer of Harold's work!

  You should only need to program the sound decoder to the same mumber as the BMann decoder (the engine number)...they both need to be "on the same page" so to speak.  Any further programming is up to you...

Howard

Peter,

  I'm trying to post this for the fith time now...

  Try your home improvement store or hardware store for a quality home use spray. Flat or semigloss works best..I like semi....
  The Floquil and Scalecoat are excellent, but can get expensive. I've been using Krylon, and others for years..

 
Regards,

Howard

  You will have to make sure bith decoders are programmed to the same address. You may also want to do some fine tunir of on or the other, maybe both. The Sounder does have a list of CV's and what can be programmed. The BMann decoder shuld have a sheet on the website...

Howard

Hey all,

  H Minky's website is back,and his photo 'what he did' article on installing decoders/sound in the Mogul is outstanding. It tokk me about three minutes to deboiler the Mogul following Harold's instructions.
  www.pacificcoastairlinerr.com
Check out all of his articles, they are outstanding!

 If you are adding a sound decoder only decoder as the Sounder it is fairly easy.
On the Davenport, or any BMann loco for that matter, find the connection points on the circuit board for the Black and Red power leads. You can solder the additional decoder to those points. Be careful not to let solder run between other soldered points, you will have problems if you do...Many of us have fried a decoder or two...
  You're done....All you have to do is program accordingly....

Howard

Peter,
 
  Ditto on the Krylon, have been using it for a lot of years... As an aside, I also keep Testor's clear finishes around. Gloss and flat. I also have a can of Minwax semi gloss acrylic finish handy. I've found that many times a close color match becomes almost indistinguishable when the entire loco is sprayed with a matching clearcoat.
  You have to be careful not to spray wheels for fear of insulating from the track. Some finishes will also craze clear plastic, so mask windows unless you want a frosted or dirty/old look.
  Experiment a little, you will be pleasantly surprised .

Howard

   The installation is not that difficult. At the decoder plug in the loco, I find the red and black wires which bring the power from the rails. On the factory installed pug the number 4 plug/ connector is the black lead, the number 8 plug/connector is the red lead. You can solder the red and black leads from your sound decoder to these leads/pads. BE CAREFUL NOT TO LET SOLDER FLOW BETWEEN ADJACENT SOLDER PADS...YOU WILL DO DAMAGE I don't want to scsare you off, but you do need to be careful. Once you've got your power hooked up, you can complete your speaker install, and program the decoder.
  Don't be afraid to do your own installs...I've found that by using info available from websites, groups, and forums I can accopmplish just about anything. I've only toasted one decoder, and that was because I was hurrying and not paying attention...real dumb . To date I've done 1 side rod, 2 Moguls, added sound to one of the Moguls and 2 Connies, and 2 Porters (these were the hardest by far)...and the shops have more lined up. Besides, I can get more stuff if I don't have to pay someone to do the work...the money I save allows me to swap out the basic BMann decoders for ones with higher ratings and/or more functions. 
  Tony's is good, but I've had much more satisfaction using Bruce and Linda at Litchfied Station, www.litchfieldstation.com,  for my DCC needs and gear: not a commercial, just my experience
  Good Luck!

Howard

  To get any type of sound system into the Connie tender, you have to remove the temder shell. Turn the tender over and remove the two screws in the front corners.
  The shell will then lift, and unhook at the back. You will now have all the room you need to get a sound decoder and speaker/speakers installed.

Howard

  Another source for short tenders is Backwoods Miniatures. Their website is www.backwoodsminiatures.com.  Peter's models/kits are outstanding. The only issue is he is in England, and the exchange rate is not the best at the moment.
  But, check out his stuff, I'm almost ready for the slopeback to put behind my Forney.

Regards,

Howard

Old Stone,

  Nice...

  You the man. I will file this info for future reference!

Howard

Bob,

  I agree wholeheartedly, and do everything I can to keep my money locally for just about everything I do, even above and beyond hobbies. However, economics prohibits many brick and mortar stores from stocking everything for everybody. My first Mogul was purchased at a LHS (actually a Local Train Shop, from Z to G), and the owner was more than happy to offer me a deal on any other On30 stock as he was having a hard time selling the product.  The On30 customer base is just too specialized, therefore small. His biggest seller, Trolley sets at Christmans time.
The shop closest to me is strictly HO, and is reluctant to order me much. (But they do get some of my dollars.)
Yeah, and as I've mentioned, BMann's main office is across the river from me!
So, I've had to go the mail order or internet route, but I do business with brick and mortar, established shops and stores. WholeSale Trains, Trainworld to name two are family owned stores , and authorized BMann dealers, as is The Favorite Spot. There are many, many guys out there specializing in On30 product....try a Google search, you will be pleasantly suprised.
  There are even a few On30 modelers who have taken it upon themselves to open CyberShops so we can get our stuff, so to speak . My hats off to them all.

  Well I've vented enough, but want to reiterate, we are modelers in a very specialized niche, and sometimes have to search to fill our needs.

Regards,

Howard

Royce,

  Bachmann redesigned their rolling stock a while ago. If memory serves me right with box cars and reefers, if the car has individually applied ladders, not molded ones, you're gettin the new, lowered frame .
  My understanding is BMann is upgrading it's rolling stock for a more prototypical hunkered down look.
  I, for one am lovin it, and will be converting to the new frames when they hit the LHS!

Regards,

Howard

Bob,

  Glad you got your Dismal Swamp car ordered. I, too, am an avid supporter of my local hobby shops, as I spend at least half of my MRR dollars locally. But sometimes you just can't find what you want or need locally. (As an aside, I can almost see the Bachmann offices from where I sit across the river, but most of my local shops don't stock much On30 )
  We sometimes have to look out of area to larger, better stocked dealers. I've noticed a trend in the hobby lately to bash online vendors, and those who shop with them. What we fail to realize is that many of those vendors are established family run shops with brick and mortar stores. Trainland has been selling from the same two locations for over twenty five years, and the LHS I was at yesterday, and will be returning to today, has been in the same spot as long....The only difference is Trainland is 100 miles from me.
  Anyway, I've vented, and will look for that kit, supplies, etc., I've wanted and/or needed locally, and if I can't find it I will look online. The difference is I will deal with MRR specialists and dealers (and there are lots) , not warehouses. Oh yeah, many will be brick and mortar hobby shops. 

Howard