Hi Tomcat,

I just checked out JV Model´s Lucas Sawmill and all I can find is an HO version.

Do you think that they also supply an O Scale kit?

Hey fellas,

Many years ago, I built up a white metal kit of a small saw shop and plank mill in HO.

It had the saws, logs, a dipping tank, overhead belt drive, and a small donkey engine on a sled powering it (static only).

I think it was from Woodlands Scenics, but I can't be sure. 

Does anyone know of a similar small kit - preferably white metal - in O Scale?

I would just love to stick one in a vacant corner of my On30 layout.

Hey rwiseha,

I have had similar troubles with my Forney on tight radii. 

Owing to the L-O-N-G amount of overhang behind the rearmost drive wheel, it means that there is a HUGE amount of sideways swing, and this is exacerbated on tighter radius curves.

As a result, it is almost impossible to keep any wagon or coach coupled, and I have found that my Forney (Kate) will only pull her consist when coupled up to run backwards. The front overhang is a little less than the rear.

This one fact has saved Kate the ignominity of being cut down into a 2-4-0.

Ain't On30 great?!

Thank you, JRT.

Thanks for the link, Bill.

Well, US$61 IS super-cheap to me, here in Oz.

Can anyone tell me if it will run from ordinary DC?

Thanks, blokes.

Hi guys,

Walthers have currently reduced the Bachmann Spectrum 29161 Rail Truck to a super low price, and as such, I am thinking of purchasing one for the Hill End and Gronan Creek layout that I am building.

The truck is DCC on board.....can anyone tell me if it will operate satisfactorily from old straight DC?

Thank You.

Hi Sidetracked,

Decals are not the answer, for they will not mould themselves to the surface correctly

The Woodlands Scenics rub-on stripes suffer the same fate as the decals, on the convoluted siding material....

Hi guys,

Great suggestions.

NarrowMinded, I especially like the sealing coats of clear, prior to the colour coat. I certainly will give it a try.

SideTracked, I love the pic of the interurban. It never occurred to me to extend the warning chevrons around to the sides of the front, but your pic has inspired me!

I also have an old set of technical pens that I have left over from the days when illustrations were all done with pen and ink (!)  .

I have tried using the .5mm and the .35mm, but it is very difficult to get the pen point to operate on the convoluted surface. They were designed to be used on smooth paper and tracing talc, and they simply do not like irregular surfaces....

Back to the drawing board.

Many thanks, all.

G'day all, 

I want to add some thin pinstriping to the sides of my Bachmann Combine coach, which I am rebuilding into a Gas-Electric Rail Motor with a Backwoods Miniatures conversion kit.

I have had a bit of difficulty adding the yellow and black warning chevrons to the front of the cab, due to the convoluted nature of the material.

Decals are not the answer, for they will not mould themselves to the surface correctly, so I have opted to pick the stripes out with a fine paintbrush. This is acceptable, but the result is far from perfect.

So, does anyone have any suggestions for adding thin horizontal stripes to the metal sides. and making them appear 'even',  from a side angle, without the usual 'bleeding' ??

Many thanks.   

Hey, thanks mabloodhound .

I'll call them next week. 

Hi guys,

I have had a few attempts recently at trying to get my order through to Carstens Publications for the current 2010 issue of the On30 Annual. I have also ordered a few back issues, and quoted my CC details, but have not yet seen any results.

A couple of follow-up emails have not received any replies.

Is this the case with all international orders for this great magazine, or is it only me that is having troubles?   

Amen to that, NM....

That clinches it for me, then.

No Bachmann 'geared' On30 locos for me either, until the hassles are sorted out.

Cya'll   

Hi guys,

I have no continuity problems with the Electrofrog turnouts on my layout that are switched by the Peco motors. (Good guess, Jim.)

My problems are only with two out of six that are manually operated - by push/pull rod.

Most of the hassles seem to stem from the small contact strips under the outer edges of the wing rails that slip under the stock rails to ensure continuity. If these become slightly bent, or covered in glue or paint (!) they will affect the flow of current. 

This is where I am concentrating my efforts. As a result, I have cut off a thin slice of track-cleaning pad and use this to polish these otherwise inaccessible areas, as well as the tapered faces of the wing rails where they abut the stock rails.

At the moment, all seems to be working well.

Thanks for all your suggestions, guys.

Hey fellas,

Many thanks for the link to Boulder Valley and their On30 conversion kit.

Looks like it will do the job nicely, as well as saving me a pile of hassles.

What a great bunch you all are!