If you're wondering if they're valuable collector's items (or whatever), the answer is no. Both cars were introduced in the late 1960's and were produced in the thousands (tens of thousands?) over many decades. Worth a few dollars, but no more than that.

You may find this site useful - http://www.spookshow.net/freight/freight.html

Cheers,
-Mark

Yes, desolder the stock decoder and replace it with a sound decoder.



Unfortunately, the tender PC board is mounted basically flush with the tender chassis so the sound is probably going to be a bit muffled (even with holes drilled in the chassis).

Good luck!
-Mark

The derailing problems are caused by flash on the diaphragms and the coupler pockets. IE, a manufacturing defect, so not all cars are going to exhibit the problem (or to the same degree). Ron Bearden wrote a very informative article on ways to improve performance on these cars for the March/April 2007 issue of N-Scale Magazine. A good place to start if you're having trouble with your Acela train.

Cheers,
-Mark

Quote from: RGW on February 02, 2015, 01:39:42 PM
Thanks you.  I sorta thought you would be the one to have this information. I will check for driver wobble.
Are the TT drivers  connected to the side rods. It would be convenient if there are not. Guess i will find out.

You're in luck - they are not. So, all the much easier 

Cheers,
-Mark

An occasional problem with Bachmann steam engines is that the driver bearing blocks wind up with excessive freeplay due to the frame cut-outs (wherein the driver bearing blocks seat) being cut inaccurately at the factory. If you eyeball the drivers as the engine rolls along and can see the TT-equipped driverset moving around excessively (up and down and/or side to side), then it's the cutouts that are the problem ('cuz if the traction tires aren't in firm/constant contact with the rails, pulling power is going to be greatly reduced).

A relatively simple way to fix the problem is to remove the plastic bottomplate and lift out the TT driverset. Then apply a thin strip of electrical tape to the edges of the cutout. This will serve to shim the bearing blocks and keep the drivers from moving around too much.

Cheers,
-Mark

All of Bachmanns's 2-10-2's come with factory-installed decoders, as do all of Bachmann's C&O H-4 2-6-6-2's. Bachmann's (earlier) USRA 2-6-6-2's are simply "DCC-Ready" (IE, no factory-installed decoder). However, the latter do have some performance issues that might scare some people away. More info on both models here -

http://www.spookshow.net/loco/bach2662.htm

http://www.spookshow.net/loco/bach2102.html

Any Bachmann locomotive with a factory-installed decoder should (in theory) run just as well on a DC layout as it does on a DCC layout. So, if you have a DCC-equipped Doodlebug that is misbehaving on your layout, my advice would be to send it back to Bachmann for replacement. And if all decoder-equipped locomotives fail to operate properly on your layout, you might want to look into upgrading your power supply / throttle.

Cheers,
-Mark

Bachmann did release their "latest and greatest" version of the 4-8-4 in Rock Island livery (I had one, so I know). And although a decent enough runner (and much improved over earlier versions of the 4-8-4), it is not a Spectrum locomotive so (among other things) it's not DCC Ready. Also, it's based on a Santa Fe prototype, so it doesn't much resemble anything run by the CRI&P.

More information on Bachmann 4-8-4's here - http://www.spookshow.net/loco/bach484.html

Bachmann's 4-8-2's are DCC-Ready (or DCC-equipped) and are better looking/running models overall (although IMHO the Heavy 4-8-2 is the best of the bunch). Again, not particularly accurate for the Rock Island, although that didn't stop me from sticking CRI&P decals on one :-)



More info on Bachmann 4-8-2's here - http://www.spookshow.net/loco/bachmann482.html

Another option for freight service would be a Bachmann 2-10-2. Once again, not quite right for the Rock, but definitely a sweet running loco (and one that I also stuck Rock Island decals on) -



More info on Bachmann 2-10-2's here - http://www.spookshow.net/loco/bach2102.html

So, several options if you just want to stick Rock Island decals on something that looks and runs good, but quite a bit of work involved if you want something that's prototypical.

Cheers,
-Mark

Here ya go -

http://www.spookshow.net/loco/bachs4.html

Cheers,
-Mark

It's not quite as simple as that. The 4-6-0 tender does not have a wiring harness/plug that connects the engine wires to the decoder in the tender. Rather, the engine wires are soldered directly to the decoder board -



What you have to do is clip the wires off of the decoder and then either hook them up to a plug and connect said plug to the pins in the new tender, or solder the wires directly to the pins. Then, if you still want DCC you have to wire a decoder to the PC board in the new tender (there are numbered contacts on the PC board where you solder the decoder wires).

Cheers,
-Mark

That tender is its own thing (specifically designed for the 2-6-0). And I sure do wish they were available separately as I could use a whole bunch of them!

Cheers,
-Mark

It seems like something is binding someplace, and so far I like the screw theory (either too loose or too tight). In addition to the bottomplate screws, there are three screws that hold the chassis halves together -



I had a Bachmann 0-6-0 that behaved very much like your 2-10-2, and the solution to the problem was to tighten up the chassis screws a bit.

Good luck!
-Mark

I think it's more of a QC issue than anything. Some have it, most don't.

Cheers,
-Mark

This sort of wobbling is usually caused by excessive freeplay in one or more of the driver bearing blocks (this due to the frame cutouts wherein the bearing blocks seat being slightly miscut). The simplest solution is to just send the locomotive back to Bachmann for repair/replacement. But failing that, one can often fix the problem by pulling out the offending bearing block(s) and shimming them (I generally use a small piece of electrical tape applied inside the cutout). Once shimmed, the bearing blocks are no longer free to move around and the eccentric rotation is eliminated.

Cheers,
-Mark

Thanks for info.

Cheers,
-Mark

I'm a bit confused re the coupler situation on the latest (DCC-equipped) version of Bachmann's Double-D. My understanding hitherto has been -

1st run - one-piece knuckles on the model and ala-carte Rapidos in the box
2nd run - one-piece knuckles on the model and ala-carte E-Z Mates in the box

All well and good, but today I got an email from a guy who said that his came with E-Z Mates on the model and Rapidos in the box. Is this a 3rd run? Or... what? Anybody else bought one lately?

Thanks!
-Mark