Jonathan, thanks for the info on p'bkt.  I noticed that only the "address" of the photos showed in my post.  I was expecting the pictures themselves to be in the post.  What did I miss or do wrong?  Thankyou for your time and help, Dave

PS - I work a split shift, so I usually only get on the computer midday Central time or late evening

Thank you Jonathan for the compliment.  I sure was nervous when I made that first cut into the frame.  I found out that the IMG option is only available when a single picture is in view in Photobucket.  I was in the Library view, and that option is not available there.  I thought it would transfer all the pics in the folder.  Am I understanding correctly that I need to jump back and forth between posting & P'bucket until all pictures are inserted to post?  Thanks, Dave

Update on tender rework project.  Cut shell, frame etc. to achieve a "lighter" look to the tender.  Width now matches cab.  So much better looking.  Raised the frame rails up into the shell 3 in. so tops of wheels show, as most of the photos I found featured this.  Also moved the frame rails in toward the center to create the "overhang" along the lower edge of the water tank.  I hope these first pictures show. 

http://s930.photobucket.com/user/dave2744/library/MOGULproject2015

If all went OK there should be two pictures, org tender and modified tender.  I hope the full length of the loco and tender are showing, as the Photobucket views appeared to have croppped some of the border off.

I will post my pics of the cutting process if this post worked properly, otherwise I will need some help as to what I did wrong with picture posting process.  Dave

Getting back to Trainman203 question.  Using TrainmainBrian's numbers, his estimated scenery costs are $15 to $20 per square foot.  I am assuming a fairly high level of quality detail after reading his description of work done.  Don't know what percentage of his materials were purchased vs. scrounged up.

My current layout, about 70% scenery completed, to a "acceptable" level.  I say this as it is my first attempt at full scenery.  It is all purchased material from LHS.  I did keep receipts, and my cost was $9 to $11 per square foot.

Using JerrysHO suggestion of scrounging up as much as possible,  I would guess you might end up at $2per square foot.

If you go the scrounging route,  labor (volunteers?), will make up the difference vs. dollars.

TrainmainBrian is correct about the cost of people (model), vehicles, etc.  They can far outstrip the cost of actual scenery.

I used Woodland Scenics ground foam products for most of my ground cover.  $8.29 per 30oz.  When you get it out of the bottle it expands tremendously.  The label states 58 cubic inches of foam. I believe it.

If this project is to be museum quality, don't underestimate $ and/or labor required.    Good Luck! Dave

Reference my earlier post on tender width of Mogul, I have started the project to narrow the tender to match the cab.  A couple of surprises.  I didn't understand why a loco with one motor and one headlight had eight ( 8 ) wires between tender and loco.  Now the pc board is out and surprise two.  Here are the wire connections with wires attached:
Tab R - 2 wires, 1st-red-Rail, right. 2nd-black-unknown.
Tab B - 2 wires, 1st-black-Rail,left. 2nd-black-unknown.
Tab M+ - 1 wire, black-Motor.  Tab M+  -  1 wire, black-Motor.
Tab HL - 1 wire, black-Headlight.  Tab H+ - 1 wire, black-Headlight.
Tab S+ - 1 wire, black-Speaker.  Tab S-  -  1 wire, black-Speaker.
Tab BL - 1 wire, black-Backup light. Tab B+ - 1 wire, black-Backup light.
Tab +U - 1 wire, black-unknown.  Tab SMK - 1 wire, black-Smoke?.

I haven't removed the boiler, one project at a time.

Anybody know if these units had smoke heaters?  None is shown on the parts diagram, and the box doesn't indicate any.  Thanks, Dave

Edit.  Date stamp on CPU is 9.4.12

Update on Mogul tender.  Cab measures 1.280 in. (scale 9 ft 3 in.). Tender measures 1.360 in. ( 9 ft 10 in.).  It appears B'mann needed to accommodate a round speaker -1.110  in., molded rim to set it in - .040+.040, tender body shell thickness - .055+.055, assembly clearance .030+.030 giving total width of 1.360.

I've drawn up my plans for reducing the width to match the cab, and will be using a Railmaster Hobbies DS1424-8 cube speaker.  Have one of these in my B'mann Shay and it sounds fantastic. 

Note concerning B'mann speaker mounting.  Two brass clips held by screws secure the speaker inside plastic rim.  When I removed the shell, the speaker was rattling around in the molded cavity, very loose.  I always thought the sound was not quite right, now I know why. Dave

GN 2-6-8-0   By any chance do you recall what issue of MR  carried that review of the B'mann  Mogul?  Dave

Trainman 203 - When you changed to the Tsunami decoders, did that give you the silky smooth start motion typical of a steam loco?  I have tried several CV changes, but my  B'mann Mogul wants to go from 0 to 2 mph right now!  My Rivarossi Hiesler will crawl so slow you almost can't see it move.  Same for my B'mann  Shay.  Dave

J.J. - All the new DCC w/Sound On Board decoders are mfg'd by SoundTraxx, to Bachmann specifications.  They are not Tsunami decoders.  Alot of the CVs are standard, but some are not included, as per B'mann specs.  Good luck, Dave

Rich - I have viewed Roger's work on this forum and agree - great modeling.

Roger T. - I like the looks of that 2-8-0 w/P2K switcher tender.  I think I'll layout a drawing and start cutting.  I have modified models before, but this is such a overall nice loco I hadn't considered cutting and modifying it.  Dave

Thanks for posting the pics piyer.  A picture is sure worth a thousand words.  I see what you mean about the frame being narrower than the water tank.  That takes some of the "clunkyness" away.  I'm going to see if I can modify the B'mann to replicate this.  In looking at the photo of 1376 though, it sure looks as if the tender is even with the sides of the cab.  I'm going to find some steps for the pilot beam, they would certainly add some visual mass to the front.  Thanks again, Dave

One thing that does bother me, visually, about the otherwise excellent B'mann Mogul DCC w/Sound is the width of the tender body to that of the cab.  Must of the pictures I come across show them to be of the same width.  I have tried to research specification data, but most do not show the tender width.  Is the cab too narrow, or is the tender too wide, or is the model correctly proportioned?  Anybody have information on this?  Thank, Dave

Yes Bob, it took me a very, very long time to find that screw, and it is not on the parts diagram - thanks B'mann.  I was seriously contemplating buying a second Mogul and consisting them.  I think it would look impressive, and quite prototypical.  You should consider this as you have several.  Try running them as separate locos, ( no consist ), using two throttles.  Now that would be impressive.  They could even be out of sync slightly.  You are correct in stating these are excellent running, good looking, and quite economical.  Dave

If you are referring to the latest model B'mann 2-6-0 Dcc w/Sound, there are two screws under to cab rear apron, either side of the drawbar.  Also, the top of the sanddome can be carefully pried off revealing a very tiny screw down deep in the dome.  Also, the metal "stay rods" to the pilot deck must be pulled out of the holes in the smokebox.  But, don't go there.  There is absolutely no room for any kind of weight inside the boiler.  I've been there.  You could possibly put some lead inside the cab, but it would be difficult to hide it.  As a point of reference, my Mogul pulls 6  40ft cars, weighted slightly below NMRA standards & not so free rolling, on the level and through 18" curves.  It will pull 2 of the same cars up a 8%, yes, 8% grade. It must be done at very slow speed.  Remember that in the real world these were considered small locos, and did not pull many cars.  Hope this helps, Dave

Dan d - just read your post on removing boiler.  If B'mann designed it like the 2-6-0 Mogul, the top of the sand dome comes off, use a dull xacto blade to pry it up.  This will expose a very small screw down deep in the dome.  It holds the boiler to the cast weight.  Hope yours is like this, as I had a devil of a time trying to figure out how to release the boiler.  The suggestion of just buying a DCC w Sound is a good one.  You can always mount a trailing truck to it, which is what I think B'mann did anyway.  Good luck - Dave