Jonathan,
Loco:
1. Lead truck seems to be in gage.
2. How did you add weight to the smokebox area?
Turnouts:
1. Yes to the basic turnout although I've had some derailments on a #5.
2. Not done yet.
3. Frogs seem to be flat but the gap within the plastic frog seems to be a bit wide allowing the lead truck wheels to drop in the gap.
     I've even had some rolling stock derail on the basic turnout.

I'll keep working on it. May try to replace some turnouts with #5s

I have a new Bachmann 2-8-2 that frequently derails when going through EZ-Track turnouts (44561/44562). Seems to occurs when going into the turnout points and/or going over the frog. Would filing down the top edge of the points help or eliminate the problem?
Thanks.

Does anyone make a wire stripper that can be used on the 3-wire plugs that come with the ez track turnouts? I have many turnouts and need to cut the wires (green wires) between the turnout and the controller to make my own extensions. I've made some using 4-wire phone cable and crimped connectors.  The problem has been getting a good stripped end on the green wire that can be inserted into the telephone connector. Thanks.

How do I get to a website that offers UK versions?

Would like to see DCC versions of HO Thomas & Friends to run on newer DCC layouts.

Using the track with insulated gap will isolate the siding. To power the siding you will need to go thru a double pole on/off switch between the power pack and the isolated siding. If you turn the track over you will see a 'circuit' board with a brass connector on each side. Loosen the screws and swing the brass connectors out thereby opening up the gap. Taking a Bachmann red wire connector from the output side of the DP switch, plug it into the 'circuit' board on the siding side of the insulated track. If you can solder it's cheaper to take a regular piece of track, cut a gap through both rails or use plastic rail joiner between 2 sections of track and solder wires to each rail running back to the DP on/off switch.

Got it. Thanks.

How do you release and remove the truck side frames without causing damage? I'm switching from black to silver on a Santa Fe.

Rich, your getting above my pay grade. I'm relatively new to DCC. This was running on DC out of the box. I then switched over to DCC. The only setting that I changed was from #3 to a number I choose. There are 3 other locos running with only the number designation switched to a unique number. All locos have been running for several months with no problem. This particular diesel began with the 'noise'  yesterday. I looked on the SoundTraxx website and it gave a few possibilities for the 'crackling' noise. They even described like that. None of their suggestions appeared to be the problem except for a bad speaker. I'll keep looking. 

It's not a buzz. Think of how a fire sounds. The crackling type of sound. It sounds like it changes in 'speed' as the loco speed increases (i think). Could be some type of interference from the motor.  Is there a way to test a speaker? The speaker is at the rear of the chassis right on top. It has a plastic cover over it. It's tight.

I'm looking for my receipt. May just send it back to Bachmann.

Rich1998, I removed the shell and took the speaker cover off. Everything looks ok. Two wires from the speaker go to the board which I assume contains everything. Maybe replace the entire board?? OR just run a quite diesel.

This unit has been operating flawlessly up until a few days ago. I'm getting a 'crackling' noise along with the normal diesel sounds. Pressing F8 eliminates all sound. Any suggestions? Any and all help appreciated.

How do I remove the speaker if that's the problem?

Thanks in advance.

Had similar problem with a #5 just purchased. Check the continuity of the track. along each section of the turnout. I had a dead rail going into the frog.

HELP.  I think I setup as shown in the documentation. Seems to work for a while then it will 'short out' when a loco passes over the gap in the E-Z Track Power Terminal with Insulated Gap (Item 44597) and/or the opposite loop gap.

Is there any way to troubleshoot the E-Z Command Auto-Reverse Unit, Item 44912?

Anyone out there ever converted from DC to DCC on T&F HO engines? I have converted to full DCC layout but still have grandson's T&F engines and rolling stock. I don't want him to ruin his engines if he was to inadvertently place them on the layout. Any thoughts?