Those of you living in the "Heart of Dixie" are now informed of the Gadsden Train Show to be held Saturday, April 19 from 9:00 am to 4:00 pm. The show is held in Gadsden, AL at the Gadsden Convention Hall (344 South First Street, Gadsden, AL). The cost of admission is $5.00 for adults and kids under the age of 12 are free.

This is short notice, and on a busy weekend, but hopefully we can all support one of the few model railroad events in northern Alabama. I hope to see you there!

Regards,
Ray

PS: I am posting this as a service to fellow hobbyists. I am not, in any way, affiliated with the Coosa Valley Model Railroad Association.

Thanks for the explanation Rich. I wish Bachmann would increase their range of small switching locomotives ('could fill a 'niche' in the hobby). A good start would be a redesign of the Plymouth...making it actually look like the prototype - AND giving it the proper model name (WDT not MDT). The Plymouth could then join the ranks of other excellent running Bachmann switchers as the GE 45-Ton and the GE 44-Ton. After the Plymouth how about offering that neat Whitcomb in HO?

Again, thanks Rich...'always enjoy your posts,
Ray

A often overlooked resource (for just about anything) is YouTube. There are informational videos on just about any facet of model railroading. Do keep in mind that the viewer needs to be aware...some of the videos are poorly done - whilst others are superb. I seem to remember a Bachmann video that details how to properly lubricate Bachmann locomotives.

Regards,
Ray

OK Rich, reading into your last post I have deduced that you installed wheel pick ups on that Bachmann Plymouth MDT/WDT? That seems to make sense. 'Not sure I want to put the expense (or effort) into such an inexpensive model.

Ray

This is to Rich - I read, in a previous post, that you put a decoder in the Bachmann Plymouth WDT switcher (which is incorrectly labeled "MDT")...how did you solve the poor power pick up of this model? As it comes from the factory, the Plymouth uses wheel>axle>frame method of transferring electrical power from the rail to the motor. In the best of circumstances, this is hit and miss (one of the reasons my beloved Plymouth sits on a shelf and I exclusively use my Bachmann GE 45-Ton). As you have mentioned, DCC is very 'picky' when it comes to power; I would think the Plymouth would be a 'bear' to keep running...heck, I had troubles on DC. Inquiring minds would like to know.

As an aside, this would be an excellent candidate (the Plymouth WDT) for a major upgrade. I can only hope Bachmann will consider this in the future...and I wouldn't mind an HO version of the On30 Whitcomb.

Regards,
Ray

I just did a Google search for "Ink Erasers" and found numerous sources. Those of you that wish to use the 'ink eraser' method of track cleaning might want to try that search. As an aside, I saw that Staples was listed as a source of said erasers.

Ray

While some of these suggestions may be cheaper...I'll stick with my tried and true Bright-Boy. When the 'pad' gets dirty, I simply fun it over some 150-grit sandpaper and it is as good as new. After the occasional 'bout' with the Bright-Boy I run a IHM Track Cleaning caboose over the rails. Since the Monks Island Railway is rather small, I don't fill the on-board tank - preferring to dampen the cleaning pad with Aerocar ACT-6006 Track Cleaner & Conditioner. As an aside, the ACT-6006 works as an excellent wheel/contact cleaner ('keeps my Bachmann GE 45-Tonner running like new).

Like spaghetti sauce, everyone has their own 'recipe' for clean track.

Regards,
Ray

Hack - There are numerous manufacturers of wheelsets on the market. I have used Walthers P2K and Kadee over the years and probably a few others that I can't remember. Do a 'Google search' on "HO wheelsets" and you will find several [many] sources. Another option is to go to the Walthers catalog (or their website) to find what you need. Generally speaking HO freight cars use 33" wheelsets (although 36" is not unknown). Again, just about every Internet discounter sells wheelsets.

Please note that I assumed that your reference to "flatbeds" was actually to "flatcars"...and not flatbed trucks.

Have a great day. I'm sure others will add posts to your query.

Regards,
Ray

I think our somewhat stagnant economy has taken its toll on hobby shops as I remember them in my youth. The Internet offers a myriad of options; many at lower prices than is possible with a brick and mortar store. The Internet advantage will be somewhat blunted as more and more states elect to collect sales tax from on line transactions - but the disparity will remain due to the increased overhead associated with traditional shops.

As the cost of living increases, and taxes take a larger and larger 'bite' out of ones disposable income, such extraneous things (like hobbies) will be drastically effected. A similar case in point: With the less expensive automobiles costing ~ $15,000+, families are keeping their present vehicles longer (averaging 11 years). The automobile industry has resorted to leasing as a mechanism for moving inventory. [Have you noticed that the automobile commercials tout the LEASE price and not the actual price (or monthly payment)?]

So, where does this leave the LHS? First I would caution one to avoid investing in that industry as things are likely to get worse. [How many LHS' have you seen 'go under'?] Secondly, tomorrow's model railroader will be more price conscience than they are today. This will result in smaller layouts and less 'stock'. Added to the economic pressures is the fact that housing (in the U.s.) is getting smaller...not larger. This will translate in much smaller layouts to fit withing the available square footage (many homes are currently being built without attics nor basements). The model railroader of the future will have to be very creative in order to carry on with their hobby. It would seem that we would be best served by taking a page from our European brothers and engage in mini layouts. [OK, U.K. members - jump in here.]

In summary, there will always be a number of 'brick and mortar' hobby shops - just as there will always be large, multi-level, layouts (although their numbers will most likely diminish). Internet vendors will most likely increase (particularly the larger ones) as that seems to be the way the market is heading. We may see a re-insurgence of train shows. I do not, however, see the end of the hobby; as we are blessed with a great many very clever members. Do yourself a favor and purchase a copy of Railway Modeller to see how our UK friends manage in very restricted living spaces...it can be done well. Also check out Carl Arendt's website for a veritable host of small layout ideas.

Regards to all,
Ray

A good machine shop can fabricate what you want out of stainless steel rod. Some turning on a lathe would be required; but the end product should satisfy your needs. I strongly suggest that you provide some measurements, and a picture, of what you are trying to accomplish. I also suggest that you are seated when you get the estimated cost as stainless rod is very expensive and shop time ain't cheap...especially a small, special order like yours.

Personally, I would go with one of the other model tanks, sand down the seam lines, and spray it with the aforementioned 'shiny' paint. Keep in mind that it is only a model...the assumption being you are not going to own a scale orange juice producing plant and actually store scale juice in the tanks.

Regards,
Ray

IR - It certainly looks like you want to have a manageable layout - with ample operations to keep your interest. I tend to agree with the other posts made: too many turnouts and too little car storage space. May I suggest you become familiar with Carl Arendt's website? http://www.carendt.com/ Plan on spending a lot of time perusing this wonderful website.

Another good website is English and concerns itself with shunting games ('shunting' means 'switching' in US-speak). This site is found at http://www.wymann.info/ShuntingPuzzles/[/url and is full of ideas for switching layouts.

I have been involved with mini layouts (and switching operations) for years. Please use the 'search' function to locate some of my previous posts on this forum (look under "Monks' Island Railway"). I have also made several contributions to the Free Rails Forum at [url]http://freerails.com/]http://freerails.com/]http://www.wymann.info/ShuntingPuzzles/[/url and is full of ideas for switching layouts.

I have been involved with mini layouts (and switching operations) for years. Please use the 'search' function to locate some of my previous posts on this forum (look under "Monks' Island Railway"). I have also made several contributions to the Free Rails Forum at [url]http://freerails.com/ where you can search under the Micro Layouts...Minis, Switching and Pizzas [p. 2 "Monks' Island"] There are also some [rather dated] pictures in the "Gallery" section. Operation is always a concern with very small layouts. How does one keep ones interest over the long run? I suggest you also see my posts on the Free Rails Forum site under "Operations" [p. 1 - two posts "Monks' Island..."]. I hope these suggestions are of use to you.  Ray

I have to agree with Roger that UK locomotives can be placed directly upon US rails and perform as expected (do keep in mind that US electricity does not have a Royal Patent...so it is best not to tell the locomotive it is running on 'Yank rails').

As far as a suggestion by a previous poster that The Signal Box is a good place to order UK items: There are many Signal Box(es) in the UK (i.e. the name is popular for hobby shops). I would imagine the reference is to The Signal Box of Rochester, UK (which I agree was an excellent place with which to trade). This business has gone into administration (bankrupcy) and is no longer in business.

My main problem, with modeling UK railways, is the inability to purchase some of the excellent limited run wagons - sometimes offered by modelling societies/clubs.

Cheers,
Ray

Check out the Soundtraxx website [www.soundtraxx.com] upon which there is a sound decoder listing for a 2-truck Shay. I am not familiar with this particular locomotive; but I would assume the same decoder would work for either the 2-truck, or 3-truck, Shay.

Ray

I, too, am 'dabbling' in English railway modeling. I have had excellent service from E. Hatton's in Liverpool, UK. They regularly ship to the U.S. and do not add the VAT to their overseas prices. You will wait a bit longer than shipment from a U.S. firm...but not all that much longer. E. Hatton's website is http://www.ehattons.com/

Assuming you are not a Brit, I strongly suggest you procure/subscribe to Railway Modelling, The Hornby Magazine and/or Model Rail magazines. Additionally be prepared to learn a new lexicon of railway terms when delving into English railway modeling; but that is all part of the fun.

Cheers,
Ray

JBrock - I am sorry I missed your two questions to my earlier post (I don't regularly follow the Forum anymore...and less so when we are on the road). OK, why clean the inside of the rail heads? A considerable portion of the electrical 'pick up' is through the wheel flanges - which tend to ride against the inside of the rail head. Is this absolutely necessary? No, but since you are cleaning the rails anyway, why not do a 100% job? Frequent running of your trains makes this job less important - due to friction between the wheel flange and the rail.

I use either my Bright Boy cleaning pad or an artist's eraser (white kind) for the cleaning of the inside rail heads. Please keep in mind that I am referring to the inside of the rail head...not the inside of the entire rail. In any event, frequent running of your trains and good environmental conditions will lengthen the interval between major cleanings. Don't forget those sidings; which don't get much traffic as a rule.

Regards,
Ray