Really very good, Fred. Many thanks for posting the link.

Love the Shay, too!!!

John

Great little video, Fred!

That's the first time I've ever seen a 'hump-back' bridge on the permanent way! Very cool!

Also liked the 'manual' rail sanders, sitting on the front buffer beam...


John

Great videos, Fred.

Thanks for the links.

You can almost smell the mixture of steam, diesel fuel oil, and German pine forests....




John

I think I've got a cinder or two in my eye.

Something is making them water, anyway...


Thanks for sharing.

Hmmmmmmmmm,

The case for Spark Arrestors......

"....38t 2 truck 3 cylinder shay, or a wagon-top boiler version of the existing 2 cylinder shay...."

That's got my vote, too!  


John

Great video, Fred.

Thanks for sharing.

Now, THAT is worth a trip to Belgrave!!

Many thanks for the info.

It's a bit too expensive to use as a kitbash...

I have had no experience with the Bachmann reversing track, but there are a couple of possible ways to secure your track to a baseboard.

If you must use nails (aka track pins), you can always drill appropriate sized holes in the sleepers, offset from the centre wire. Remember not to drive the pins in too far, as you run the risk of deforming the sleepers and this in turn could affect the gauge, and hamper good running.

A better method would be to simply glue the track down to the baseboard. This can be as temporary or as permanent as you wish. You can use ordinary white glue, or for a better bond, a good contact adhesive can also do the job.

Either way, the track can then be weathered and ballasted, which will also serve to hold it in position.

Hope this helps.


John

Hi there BERG,

Many years ago, I had a similar problem with some of my locos.

I solved the problem by fitting a 12 volt 21 watt automobile headlamp globe (more than one, if necessary)  to the transformer output - that is to say, to the same terminals that connect to the track. This had the effect of limiting the current to the rails, and making for easier, smoother, and slower starts.

It also limits the top speed, by 'wasting' some of the current, exactly like a resistor does. (The globe in fact, is a resistor!)

If you route your globe/s through a simple switch, you can switch it on for the problem locos, and by-pass it for the better-performing ones.

Hope this helps.

John

Hi peppe,

I do not own any of the newer Forneys, but my old (DC Non Sound) one had the same problem on sharp radii. (#4 turnouts are pretty tight...)

The problem is that the rear overhang on the Forney is quite large, and this results in a bum-swing that is HUGE. This is what tends to sweep the following cars off the tracks.

I found out that there are only two ways of avoiding this:

Run the loco in reverse through your sharp curves, (the front overhang is slightly less) or,

Convert your beloved Forney to a 2-4-0 with a separate tender. This is what I did, and now there are zero problems with the overhang...


John

Hi Bill,

What's wrong with the drive gears on the Davenport? 


John

Hello i8ms,

I must confess that I am not familiar with the Kincade Christmas train, or its method of operation.

However, I am a little surprised to hear that the power pack is labelled as having an Alternating Current output.

I assume that this set is/was produced by Bachmann, and it would be reasonable to assume that like all their other On30 products, it would be designed to run on Direct Current. (Unless it is DCC, of course.)

If this is indeed the case, the only limiting factor to the length of the 'run' of track length would be the AMPERAGE (current) supplied by your power pack. If it is rated at 1 amp or similar, you should have no trouble running your On30 locomotive over 100 feet length of track.

If the current supplied is less than I amp, I would suggest your purchase of a suitable power pack, of the correct output. This would be a recommendation in any case, as most power packs supplied in train sets are very basic units, and cannot be relied upon for serious, or continued reliable operation.

I hope this helps a bit.


John

Hi blokes,

Thanks for the comments.

Railslider, thanks for the tip on Vodka, but I thought that 'drinking' spirits in Oz were limited to 40 - 45% concentration of alcohol.  Or, at least my Scotch and Bourbon say so on the labels.... 

RGS Goose, it is interesting that you mention the IPA from RS components is not good for mixing with Indian ink.  You have saved me another disappointment.

Just recently, I noticed that Element14 (formerly Farnell) had the 97% stuff too. I decided to purchase some, especially when I found that their splash indicated to me that it was 'post free in Australia'. Then when I got as far as the checkout, they wanted to slug me another $15 for postage, so I cancelled it...

Since then, I have tried Raven Oil in Methylated Spirits (denatured alcohol) and it gives a nice, weathered grey / blue finish.

Of course, it still warps the timber (especially balsa) but it is decidedly cheaper than IPA...


The quest continues...


John