im sorry my railroad doesnt live up to your standards... count rivets much do you?

i have a 9' x 14' on30 layout... some curves are broad for the mainline, some are 15", going to the sawmill and such.. just like the prototype, different locos can only operate on certain areas, keeps the interest up... and it is a folded dogbone, cause sometimes i just like to sit on the stool and watch them go around..

cause i can, its my road, thats why..     

Wanna get rid of it?

Turn the decoder around

It won't work in dcc mode without a decoder
As it comes from bachmann it should have a shorting plug in place
Of the decoder so it can be run on dc.

Nce has a USB to data bus adapter and then you download jmri software.
If your layout is dcc

 All of a sudden. My mallet is locking up. Will just be steaming along fine, the randomly the drive just locks up.  Decoder, sounds, and lights continue, just no
Motion.  I have to remove it from the track and the she'll start again. 
Anyone have this before? I never remove my locos from the track so there's no way it has been damaged by hand.  Last lube was last year, maybe 5 hours of operation.  I have checked the rods, they don't appear to be binding. I have checked the plugs under the cab.  Tomorrow I'll remove and reseat the decoder

I stated dcc systems can supply .....etc. nowhere did I say all. My powercab suPplied 1.7(which ran 4 On30 locos) before I upgraded to a 5 amp booster

Dcc systems can supply plenty of power. My booster is 5 amps. There are 10 amp boosters available and you can daisy chain as many as you need together.

If you're just looking to run dc, Mrc has a tech power
Pack that has two separate circuits which means you can run two
Separate tracks.  Or dcc and control anything you want

look up!   parts and service tab??

but working on the railroad is at least half of the fun.

Lots of times you can grab that narrow wheelset and gently twist both wheels and slide them on the axle. Or go to a hobby shoP and buy a few spare wheelsets.

The flangeway may not be deep enough causing the flange to ride up and cause the loco to derail.

Coupler shanks(the piece going into the car coupler box) tend to get bent in packaging. If the tender coupler is the worst, you can swap it with the one on the rear of the caboose. Or visit a hobby shop, most sell replacement coupler packs and sets. You can buy bachmann or even kadee(which are better). They are very inexpensive if just buying for a few cars.