I have 3  of the 2-6-0's,  I bought the first one and it ran so well that I bought 2 more and I'm thinking about buying a 4th.  The 2-6-0 is a great running locomotive and hasn't any problems with the 9 inch curves. I have a couple of the MDC/Roundhouse/Athearn 2-6-0's (all the same locomotive), they are good runners but don't lend themselves very well to lubrication and maintenance. As mentioned before a good source of information is the N-Scale Encyclopedia at

http://www.spookshow.net/locos.html

Has anyone ever purchased from TK Trains & Hobbies?

Albert,

Thank you for the helpful information - John

What size Bachmann knuckle coupler (Long Medium or Short) should you use when replacing the Rapido couplers on the "Old Timer" series cars and the 4-4-0 locomotives?

Rich.

That link was great, and I printed it out for later use as I have five of these engines.  One word of caution, the unit he was working with was a "later" or current production run locomotive and tender, if the locomotive plate on the bottom says "Hong Kong" it is an earlier version (like the one I had worked on) and the motor doesn't lend itself well to removal from the tender to do the kind of work described in link.  Thanks again - John

Shawn,

Would that work on rail joiners to hold tracks together as well as conductivity?  Where do you get it?

Bill,

Your point about solder paste is well taken, but "Noalox" is not a solder paste, it is a conductive lubricant intended for electrical gear, designed to keep out dust and water.  I bought a 1/2 oz tube many years ago at Lowe's, and after having used it on G Scale layouts for joining track, I'm now using it on my N Scale - with all the use over the years, I still have over 3/4 of the tube left.  The "Noalox" worked great during reassemble of the 4-4-0 tender trucks because it held the pickup springs in place while attaching the trucks to the tender - no fly away springs.

Les,

My advice is not to take the motor out of the tender, as the tender shell is actually the frame for motor, getting the 3 pole motor and 2 magnets and the weight back in is a bear, also the motors from the early generations are NOT inter changeable with later or current generations!  If the motor is bad spend $20 and buy the tender and motor  from Bachmann.

Shawn,

Thank You, I've  rebuilt the the tender pickup assembly and motor, runs like new.

As for solder paste, I use a product called "Noalox", it's designed for lubricating electrical switch gear, repels water and doesn't hold dust. It's a great conductor, I discovered it years ago for my G Scale layout.  Using a small paint brush I painted the Noalox on the 4-4-0 tender axle stubs, spring seat on the trucks and on the contact plate the springs ride on, works great. I also "paint" the rail joiners (which is what I used it on G Scale to keep dirt and water out) for improve conductivity, I don't solder any more.

Again thank you all for your help,  the engine had been the victim of a flood, bought it very cheap and thanks to your information it runs like new.

Mots,

Thank You very much, it's just what I needed, I can't explain how I missed it, but I did,
again Thank You - John

Has anyone on the forum ever take the tender apart on the 4-4-0?  What are the pit falls aside from the springs between the trucks and the brass pick up plates?  I couldn't find any diagrams for this engine.  Thank you in advance.    John

Has anyone noticed that Ironlake, the original questioner, has been absent from these conversations, I'll hazard a guess that his curiosity was satisfied  by the first two replies - just an observation....

Thank You, I'll give it a try, I wasn't sure that it may have been "tacked" glued or not, and I didn't want to break something _ Thank You Again!

Has anyone ever taken apart the circa 1860's Bachmann passenger cars. I went to a train swap sale and a fellow was selling interior configuration kits for passenger cars, so I bought several. Now I'm concerned that I make break them taking them apart - any suggestions.

Well put Kevin!