John

I'm not familier with the Bachmann autoreversing unit, but I am familier with LGB's and one made years ago by PH hobbies, no longer in business.

I would imagine that the Bachmann unit would work on similar principles.  The ones I know about work on a timing circuit that changes the polarity to the track.  At each end of the point to point is a track with a gap (LGB 1015U), open so electricity won't pass.  A diode is placed across the gap.  Diodes let current flow in one direction only.  As the engine crosses the gap it stops because there is no electricity.  When the timer changes the polarity to the track, the engine gets power to head down the track in the opposite direction.  It will stop after passing the gap at the other end and wait for the polarity to change.  

The LGB and PH hobbies units have a dial so that you can adjust the length of the time between polarity changes.

Diodes can be quite useful.  Using a passing siding, I can park one train, usually Thomas, and run a second, Percy, in a clockwise direction. If I stop Percy on the main between the switches and between two gap tracks, one with a diode and one without, he will stay there.  I can then reverse the polarity to the track and Thomas will proceed in the opposite direction (counter clockwise).  His passing siding also has a diode across one gap and an open gap.

The switches are spring loaded and always direct Thomas or Percy into the correct siding.

Here is a diagram of the passing siding setup.



I hope this helps, it is a little difficult to explain.

Chuck

A couple of questions.  Are you using the 4' diameter track that came with the set?  Do the wheels squeak all the time or just on the curves?  Try running the engine by its self and then add one car at a time. Maybe you can isolate the source of the squeak.

The 4' diameter curves are very tight.  The train will run through those curves, but they aren't happy travelers.  Squeak only in the curves is usually the metal wheels on the engine grinding the rail head in the inside of the outside rail.  A small dab of graphite paste on the inside of the outside rail where the track enters the curve from the straight section might help, or any conducting lubricant should work.  I wouldn't recommend graphite if your layout is on a light colored carpet. 

If it squeaks all the time, a drop of plastic compatable light oil in each journal will help.  You could also use graphite power, just don't use too much.

Chuck

Don't assume anything.  Every engine is different.  Some have press on wheels and some have wheels that are secured by screws on the end of the axle.  Then there is the possibility of a broken gear that slips on the axle.  The bottom line is that your engine is going out of quarter.  Why is a bigger question.  Your best bet is to contact Bachmann service.  They have replacement motor blocks that will give you a much better product.

Just a suggestion.

Chuck

PS they are drive rods, not side rails.

There are a lot of engines out there.  Which one are you talking about?

Chuck

Thank you "Yardmaster".  Please keep the distinction in your models.  I have no desire to go to DCC.  I have six Bachmann locomotives and I am happy with DC.  My collection includes many more LGB engines.  I stopped buying their products (and started buying Bachmann) when they went to MTS on all their locomotives.

I didn't want to pay the significant add on for MTS that I didn't want or need.

PLEASE KEEP THE OPTION.

Chuck

I won't pay for technology add ons. Switches to go from track to battery/?. Would always be welcome.

I think that means it runs as is with DC, but it has a socket that will accept most DCC boards.  No wiring necessary.  At least that is what I think I means.

Chuck

I just checked the Bachmann OnLine store and that number is currently for sale.  Therefore, it should be the latest version.

Chuck

I saw your post and I'm surprised that it disappeared.

Chuck

Thanks, Bill for the suggestion.

I just brought my original (battery/RC) Big Hauler out of storage for a static display.



Chuck

Also the tighter the curve, the more black dust will show up on the carpet.  This comes from the drivers grinding the rails.

Hunt's suggestion of a sheet under the track, wood, plastic or cloth is a great idea.

Chuck

Note added, Kevin's comments are right on!

I've been using Bridgewerks power supplies for many years.  I have a 3, 10, 15 amp units.  I have derailments on occasion and I have never had a wheel welded to the rail.  Every time the circuit breaker has worked as intended.  An unprotected 10 amp power supply could cause a problem.  Bridgewerks power supplies are well built, and made in America.  They are on the upper end of the price scale, but that is all I would buy or recommend.

Chuck

Note added

Depending on your future plans, bigger, better and out doors, if you aren't planning any of those, two 3 amp Bridgewerks power supplies might be more cost effective.

If you have plans for longer trains with multiple engines go for the bigger supply.  I have a train that pull 7 amps: engines, USATRAINS F3AB (2amps each) and 6 USAt streamliners with lights (0.5 amps per car).

To answer your question, yes the dual track controller would easily handle your two trains.  I just went to the Bridgewerks site and the only Two track supply I could find is rated at 15 amps.  Much more than your two planned trains and many more.

There are 5 or more scales that run on "G" gauge track.  Your set is a Big Hauler line from Bachmann.  They have many cars in that line suitable for your train.  The scale is 1:22.5/24.  They also make Spectrum series which is 1:20.3 scale.  It would not be an appropriate fit with your Big Hauler rolling stock. In my mind the Spectrum cars would look too big.

Since this is Bachmann's site, I won't mention other manufacturers who make suitable cars in your scale.

Chuck

Bachmann sells track. Is the track you have tubular rolled steel, or solid brass?  If you want to add to what you have, you need to know the style.  The two do not connect easily.  Bachmann sells both types.  There are many on line dealers out there also:  Charles Ro, Star Hobbies, Trainworld, and many others.  

Try a GOOGLE. For G gauge track.

Chuck

Glad it is working and you like it.  That added foot diameter will help a lot.

Chuck

Yes, Bachmann refers to both as street cars.  That was the purpose of my post.  Which one is the OP asking about.  I used trolley to distinguish between the two styles.

Chuck

As to Bill's comment, it might matter on the true minimum radius.  It might depend on the amount of swing there is for the trucks on the Peter Witt since there is no pivoting of the motor block on the 2-axle car.