Here's what I found on the DRGW ones:

450-451 Scrapped 1939
452-453 Scrapped 1954
454        Scrapped 1953
455        Went to RGS ... scrapped 1953
456        Scrapped 1952
457        Scrapped1939
458        Went to Mexico ....scrapped 1963
459        Went to Mexico ... scrapped 1957
460        Dismantled 1939
461        Went to RGS ... scrapped 1953
462        Scrapped 1950
463        Still Alive.... Cumbres and Toltec
464        Still Alive..... Huckleberry RR

(source:  www.drgw.org/data/steam/roster/drgw03.htm )

This is why I was interested in whether Baldwin built any (or any close cousins) for anyone else; most of these seem to be accounted for.

Matthew (OV)

Hopefully just posting this will summon Charlie.....

1.) On the post wreck #455, it says something under the "455" on the cab, and appears to say the same thing on the tender.  Anyone know what it says?

2.)  Is the "post wreck" plow on the 455 a replacement for the pilot, or was it just left on all the time to cover up a damaged pilot?  In other words, if one was to remove the plow in the "off season" would there be a regular road pilot underneath, prototypically speaking?

3.) There are several types of "back up" headlights on the K-27 models ... one high and large, one low and small, and one missing altogether, depending on the locomotive.  Were some of these ever run "tender first" in train service (thereby requiring the larger headlight) as a regular thing?

4.) Most of the K class locomotives were originally, or were made to be, relatively unique to the D&RGW and associated lines (a la RGS.) But, as with the K-28, other lines saw what worked, and ordered similar units, like OR&L's 2-8-2's that were, in essence, K-28's.  While all of the K-27's were D&RGW, is there an example of a similar locomotive (weight, tractive effort, outside frame 2-8-2, etc) bought by another 3' gauge outfit after seeing what the D&RGW had come up with?

Matthew (OV)

Quote from: CCSII on August 31, 2007, 10:41:48 PM
Materials? Plastic, die cast, pastry dough?

A K-27 made of pastry dough .... would that be a Mud Pie?

Can anyone who was there comment further on the extra parts and bits seen in some of the photos.... particularly with respect to the presence (or not) of different cabs and cylinder covers, other parts, etc? 

Matthew (OV)

Er...  Bach-Man ... maybe you need to slow that high speed internet down a bit... or bring the dragon:

"The minimum diameter is four feet"

Maybe you meant the minimum TURNTABLE diameter? 

That's a lot like what Jack Sparrow would call an Arrrh-One.

Fortunately, the RADIUS of all the curves on the new Slate Creek were made in (dare we say it) Anticipation of this particular arrival, and all exceed four feet by as much as could be managed!

I'm liking those multiple tender shells .... if there's a big cab to go with that square RGS one, I may just have to have two!  Overtime, here we come.

Matthew (OV)

HURRAH!!!  Nicely done, well played, break out the champagne and cigars!

Oh, and SIGN ME UP.  I want one. (Ok, I want four.... but I'll settle for one!)

Absolutely fantastic!

Matthew (OV)

Well... depends on what you mean by "Simple"   

The tender has power inside already, and the chuff timer (at a prototypical four beats per 360 degree turn of the drivers) is already there for you, so adding something like a Sierra or Phoenix is ... well, simplified anyway.

As long as you can follow the instructions in the box, you've already got your power and chuff run for you.... it's just a matter of hooking up the rest of it ... switches, charge jack (sierra), programming jack (P-nix 2K2) ... but after a Shay or even a 45 tonner, the tender shell is cavernous! 

SCRY #8 is currently on the bench having this very procedure done with a Soundtraxx Sierra system.  If I can be of help, certainly ask.

Matthew (OV)

Well, then, yes, I'd definately say it's a mechanical binding...   

How that's possible, I'm not sure .... assuming all the parts went back the same way they came off, it should all fit.  Any chance the brake cylinder got jammed in between the wheel and the truck frame, or something got bent while it was off?

Matthew (OV)

In the style of that other fellow ...

1.) You're not trying to run the trucks off of the locomotive are you?  If you are, unless you connect the pickups to the motor terminals, there's no way for the power to get to the motor; it's not like older locomotives where the trucks would run by themselves if placed on the track.  Reassemble the whole locomotive, so that the pickups are now connected to the motors, and try that ... report back.

2.) If you've already reassembled the locomotive, the problem may be with the plunger contacts between the trucks and the locomotive body.  This would cause the same problem as described above, as the trucks would still not be getting power.  There are four (4) sprungloaded plungers that contact four sliding plates on the top of each truck.  These plates are located down inside slots in the plastic on top of the truck.  ALL four of these plungers must be making contact for it to work.  Check to make sure that when you reassembled the locomotive  that the plunger contacts didn't end up hung up, or out of place.  You'll also want to make sure that when you reassembled the trucks to the locomotive that you put the boards that hold the plungers back on the same way they came off .... if you've inadvertently rotated one 90 degrees, it won't work.

3.) I am reasonably certain you'll find that either #1 or #2 above is the cause.  If, however, the motor is really getting power and just not turning, you may need to remove the side rods again, and try to run it without them.... if that solves the problem, you can re-install the rods, being certain you're not pinching the sideframes when you do, and that the rods are parallel to the deck of the locomotive (and not diagonal.)

On all of mine, the plunger contacts described in #2 above are going away.  They will be replaced with flexible wire, which will remove the hiccoughing stutter that occasionally happens when one of the plungers doesn't make good contact on a curve (or ... sometimes "just because.") 

Anyway, describe what you find, and we'll try to come up with more if you need it. 

Matthew (OV)
C. I. T.

The two wire pickup is the chuff contact for an aftermarket sound system.

The four wire plug is two wires for the rear headlight, and two for the transfer of power from the tender wheel track pickups to the locomotive.

Need help with anything?

Matthew (OV)

Which "Oops" are you using, Bach-Man?  The multipurpose one?  And ... the Q-tip treatment, like laquer thinner, or another method?

Matthew (OV)

Ok.  I know it says what it is in the caption, but don't look.... this one should be a bit more of a challenge!




Just don't let them see this in the large scale forum... someone'll want to build it!

Matthew(OV)

Does this help?

http://www.nmra.org/beginner/basicplan.html  (Now, remember, that was written for HO, so varous things about wire and track sizes are a bit smaller than you'll be using... but the principle is the same.  Please don't use doorbell wire to power any large scale railroad you'd like to keep!)

You can use "terminal tracks" ... clamps... or really just about anything that makes electrical sense to attach the "Feeder" wires to the track... with brass track you can generally solder your wires on, screw them to the bottom of the rail using ring terminals, or there are connection devices you can buy (power railclamps by Hillman's come to mind) ... since you're using Bachmann set track (shudder!) you may have to modify the approach a bit because of the hollow rails.  Once you have your feeders set up, you can connect (twist?) all of the wires that go to the same rail together... meaning you'll have two twisted bundles of wires.  Adding an extra piece of wire to this, with a wire nut, you'll now have two wires to connect to your power supply .... and the power will be distributed around the layout.

You probably don't want to open up the power supply unless you have to... it's easier just to treat that as a "black box" and splice the wires outside.

On mine, the power supply feeds a panel, where toggle switches distribute the power to blocks on the railroad.  I have put insulating connectors between these blocks, and can shut them down independantly, allowing trains to be "parked" on sidings, and so forth.  Yours is something of a one train -- one crew operation, so you don't need the switches... you just need to distribute the power feed a bit.

Matthew (OV)

To start with ...

Long ago, when the board was yellow, and the Bach-man waved his hat...

"(OV)" was added to "Matthew" to distinguish it from the others ... and stood for "Original Version" as for awhile I was the only "Matthew" posting regularly.  Initially, it was to have been (TOV) but there's that other fellow, and I'd hate to seem impertinent, particularly to a Capo!  ... in ANY case, shortly after applying the suffix, it was pointed out to me that there was a piece of DRGW equipment that carried the same moniker, and as a narrow gauge fan, that was a nice bonus.... and the label stuck.  And, it worked to identify me as I started participating in other forums as well.

Now.. as to #40 ...

I would LOVE to convert one of mine.  I'm an ALCO fan anyway, and I like the slanted dry pipes (er.. intake, the blast pipe is still in the middle for exhaust, I think...) though I'm not sure how I'd convert it without having to redo all the valve gear, which would be ... well, a challenge to say the least.  Though... looking at that, perhaps just replacing the valve chest and outside sheetmetal cover would do the trick?  Anyone know if there's a bash part available from some other loco that would work for a new valve chest?

I'd be interested to hear the story of its conversion (the prototype #40, I mean...)  that sounds like MAJOR surgery to me!

Back to the original line, which sounds like a good way to start epic tales like "The Rise and Fall of the Vulcan" and "The Emperor's New (Shay) Trucks" .... I have to wonder how I ended up on the "senior varsity" here!  Has it really been eight years?

Matthew (OV)

The WP&Y had some engines that were very similar to the Bachmann 2-8-0 ("Connie")

See:  http://narrowmind.railfan.net/WPYR/early-steam/early-steam.html

Notice #6 (#56) and #7 (#57) which, particularly after being converted to simple cylinders, are very similar, though the size is a bit different, and the valve gear is not the same.  #69 (recently returned to service) is also similar, though a great deal larger and bulkier, and, again has different valve gear.  

Georgetown Loop #40, which ran at the White Pass for a couple of years is also very similar, though, it's built by ALCO, and has piston valves and dry pipes that exit through the sides of the smokebox, and a slightly different cab (The Bachmann is deckless, while #40 is not, exactly.)

Back when the 2-8-0 was released there were a couple of US prototypes that were mentioned as very similar, including the Mt. Airy and Eastern #9, and I believe the Silverton Northern had a couple that were similar.

As to other engines... WP&Y 62 is similar to the "Annie" 4-6-2, though, as many folks know, the prototype is ET&WNC #12 ....  ET&WNC #10 and #14 were very similar to #12, and were taken to Alaska for military use on the WP&YR during WWII ... you can see the photos on the page Virginia Central linked above.

The White Pass had a climax, #8, but it was a 3 truck version ....  and you might be able to make a version of #51 and #52 (#1 and #2) from the Spectrum 2-6-0, but it would require some surgery.

I think that's about it ...

Matthew (OV)

I had a Soundtraxx Sierra 4-4-0 in mine .... though the consolidation (2-8-0) would work very well also ... and the one for the Shay is very similar in sound to Tweetsie's 4-6-0, which is the prototype for your "Annie."

Really what defines the sound is 1.) the overall size of the locomotive (a K-37 sounds a great deal larger than a 4-4-0 simply because of the relative size of the cylinders, smokebox, and stack) 2.) The triggering mechanism, which determines speed and cadance (meaning a Shay will run a lot faster  than a rod engine if triggered by the mechanism) and 3.) the whistle, which gives the locomotive "voice." .... and is by far the most "choosable" for something you like.

I'm surprised Alan told you that when the company's website's position is:

QuoteRemember that the digitally recorded chuff doesn’t care whether your locomotive is a 2-8-0 or a 2-6-0. The exhaust cadence be adjusted from engine to engine. Many of the whistles, while recorded from the engine listed, were used on other prototypes as well. We suggest you choose a whistle you like as opposed to trying to match wheel configurations or be prototypically correct.

If you need assistance with selecting one, or installing it, just say so.

Matthew (OV)