https://youtu.be/4U1l5y2rkzA

Thanks for the update. 

Bill,

Thanks for the info.

I am pretty sure this is a Gen 1. All gears are pinned through the chassis and are plastic except the worm. BTW it is the worm gear (plastic) that is shot in this one not the brass worm. Also the motor is horizontal in the chassis and I think the Gen 2 has a vertical motor. I had contacted NWSL and got a same day reply to my email stating that they did not have the axle gear and have no plans to produce it because there is no demand. That is why I spent the time to 3-D print one and it did work. What I did not notice at first was the axle gear was not the only problem with the gearing. It is not worth any more of my time.

Bill,
Can you give me some data on a 2-4-2 Columbia P/N 91114? It was donated to our club, looks almost new but has bad gears. The axle gear was split and I 3-D printed a new one. It ran once around my railroad and stopped with the motor running. Upon examination it was the worm gear that is the problem now. Really a bad design.

Quote from: Stokerman on August 26, 2019, 03:34:03 PM

Quote from: ef57 on July 16, 2019, 02:18:51 PM
Thank you. 

In 7/8'' scale (1:13.7) the 45mm. gauge would represent 36''; in what what the English call 16mm. scale (1:19), the gauge would represent one meter (39.4'': that is the reason for the existence of such an absurd scale!).

Ah no, actually 45mm track in 7/8" scale (1:13.7) is approximately equal to 24" gauge.

Then 45mm track in F scale (1:20.3) is approximately equal to 36" gauge.

While 45mm track in G scale (1:22.5) is approximately equal to meter gauge.

Whereas the UK 16mm to the foot scale actually runs on track space 32mm apart that is approximately equal to 24" gauge.

Hope that helps!

Right on! I was typing a correction when yours came in.

It would be nice if you mentioned which Bachmann loco you need it for!

According to Dave Goodson...

"Remove engine (cylinder assy) from locomotive.

This is accomplished by removing the lower firebox cover (2 screws), disconnecting drive shafts, and removing two Phillips head screws between the cylinders. Rotate two "lugs" inside firebox until they align with the slots, and carefully work the engine away from the chassis. Pull pin connected to link shaft arm out of cab floor."

Quote from: Greg Elmassian on June 19, 2019, 11:49:29 AM
right, but the blinking is caused by a circuit, which is a modified  monostable multivibrator if I remember correctly.   

The LED does not cause the blinking.

Oh sure. Everybody knows that! 

It is a two color LED.

https://www.google.com/search?q=two+color+LED&client=firefox-b-1-d&channel=tus&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjm5MfXoe7iAhVIrVkKHeeHDncQ_AUIESgC&biw=1920&bih=933

A Gen 5 chassis has the chuff contacts on the front axle just like every other Bachmann 10 wheeler.

Fog on an indoor layout? Dry ice and water? 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=3&v=KW4GKUR84UY

The resistive value of the resistor is not all that critical. Anywhere from 480-1K ohm/1 watt will work for the LED lights.

Put a resistor in series with your LEDs and you will be safe. It doesn't matter which leg of the LED you put it on, but the long leg is the standard. I use a 480 ohm resistor.