One thing in selecting the decoder is you do not want to use an 'articulated' sound. The 2-6-6-2 is a double-expansion engine, so you would only hear four "chuffs" per revolution like any other steam engine. Steam would first go to the smaller rear cylinders, then the exhaust steam would be used by the large front cylinders, and then be exhausted up the stack created a "chuff" sound.

On single-expansion or simple articulateds, each of the four cylinders gets steam directly from the boiler and exhausts directly thru the stack. The front and rear cylinders can get out of phase creating a "chuff-chuff.....chuff-chuff.....chuff-chuff" sound that you wouldn't find on the 2-6-6-2.

When you go into DCC, you can set the decoder to limit the top speed so the engine will run more the way you want it to. Until then, all you can do is keep the power down on your throttle.

I don't know why you'd call the short Vanderbilt tender a "sort of Vanderbilt tender"?? That short type of vandy was pretty common, the DM&IR had quite a few engines with very similar tenders.

Most (if not quite all) engines offered in the last 10 years or so have some sort of DCC plug (eight pin or nine pin). The Bachmann engines I have all have an eight pin receptacle. On sound units, the sound/DCC decoder is plugged into it.

Remember too there would multiple engines on an inter-city train. Perhaps 3-4 F units and 12-14 cars.

In say a heavyweight 80 seat coach, I find  maybe 20 people or so look good.

Because the window glazing is usually much thicker than real trains' glass windows, paired coach seats are usually made too narrow for two adult figures to sit next to each other. So in effect instead of 80 seats, you have 40. Some seats (unless you're modelling a commuter train) would normally be unoccupied - either no one is sitting there, they're in the diner etc. - so if you fill about half the window seats on each side, it looks 'about right' to me. You can have a standing figure in the aisle, perhaps talking to a seated passenger.

BTW I like to paint my own figures, I enjoy doing it and it saves a lot of money...undec figures are usually around 1/10th what painted ones cost.

There are a number of manufacturers who offer 1:48 scale doors, windows, and other building parts. Check out www.walthers.com and do an "advanced search" on O scale / scratchbuilding parts.

You never know, a collector might find the engine more valuable with the misprint!! 

I seem to recall that back when the non-operating Monogram kit came out someone (perhaps Bowser?) offered a conversion kit to add electrical pickup to the tender.

Quote from: union pacific 844 on September 07, 2012, 05:17:41 AM
im not sure how to and reletter renumber on any engine 

You can get Walthers "Solvaset" from the local hobby shop. Brush some of that on the lettering, then rub it with a rubber pencil eraser. When you start to feel some friction, add more Solvaset. If you're patient, the factory lettering will start to dissolve and can be rubbed off. DON'T use an abrasive track cleaner or sandpaper etc., just a pencil eraser.

Then you can spray the model with a product like Testor's glosscote (from a spray can) and use decals to letter the model. Use Solvaset to help the decals "snuggle down" on the model, then seal it in with Testors dullcote.

Keep in mind that by adding in effect unrealistic "phoney" lettering to the model, you're reducing it's value to pretty much zero. If you like U.P. steam, you'd be better off to sell the Niagara and use the money towards a UP engine.

If it's a new engine, it's more likely it just isn't broken in yet. I try to run a new engine on a continous run loop for 10-15 min. forward, then 10-15 min in reverse at about 3/4 full power when I first get them.

BEMF is Back Electro-Motive Force. When a motor spins, it uses electricity, but it also generates a tiny amount of electricity. This electricity it generates can be used to measure how fast the motor is turning. In a model railroad decoder, it measures the BEMF and uses that info to increase or decrease the amount of power going to the motor, so that the motor keeps spinning at the same rate. Because of that, the engine will run uphill and downhill the same speed that it runs on level track.

A "hardwire" DCC installation isn't all that difficult, so if you can get a good deal on the engine don't freak about having to use a wired decoder instead of a plug-in. Only thing to double check is that the motor is isolated from the frame.

p.s. if the seller has posted pictures (so has access to a digital camera) you could ask him to remove the tender shell (a couple of screws) and take a picture for you of the inside. It will be easy to see if there's a green lightboard and/or DCC receptacle in the tender or not.

Yes the Bachmann Spectrum engines don't have a cam to make the chuffs happen. The decoder just works that it makes X no. of chuffs per minute based on how much power you've applied. It's not too hard to increase or decrease the chuff rate, but can take a while to get it 'just right'.

It probably wouldn't have great value to an N-scale modeller of today, but could have some value to a collector. N was fairly new in the 1960's, so I would think a complete train set (including original box and paperwork) would have some value. As suggested, check ebay or enter the info on google (if you have the set ID number, "Bachmann 12345 train set" and see what comes up.

1. As noted, be sure the wheels, contact sliders, and track are clean.
2. Be sure the plug-ins are securely connected between the engine and tender on the rod engines.
3. On the two rod engines, check the "apron" between the cab and the front of the tender. You should put it all the way up, put the engine & tender on the track, then reach in with a screwdriver or pencil and swing the apron down onto the tender deck. If you don't do it that way, the apron can get under the "lip" at the front of the tender, and raise the engine or tender up off the track so it's not making good contact.