Quote from: Hunt on February 08, 2013, 10:00:31 PM

Quote from: Thomas1911 on February 08, 2013, 09:19:03 PM
I may be thinking of something else, but seems like I remember reading something about the need to put a resistor across the programming track when programming tsunami decoders with certain Digitrax systems.  Maybe someone can confirm this and, if so, provide a resistor value.

Any resistor across the programming track is not an aid to successfully programming a Tsunami decoder using a Digitrax Zephyr.

However. . .

Programming a Bachmann decoder without sound using either the Digitrax Zephyr DCS 50 or the Zephyr Xtra DCS 51 requires a workaround when Digitrax error massage  d nd  is received.

Workaround: Lay a 1000 Ohm, ¼ watt resistor across the rails of the programming track.

Remove resistor when Bachmann decoder programming complete. If the resistor is old, clean the oxidation off the leads. Always work with a clean programming track.

Thanks for clearing that up, Hunt.  I remembered something about the resistor, but since I'm not a Digitrax user, I didn't bother to remember details.

I may be thinking of something else, but seems like I remember reading something about the need to put a resistor across the programming track when programming tsunami decoders with certain Digitrax systems.  Maybe someone can confirm this and, if so, provide a resistor value.

Was feeling frisky over the weekend and did the pilot modification on my 2-4-4-2.  Added the footboard and also a working front coupler to replace the brass dummy coupler.  Need to add a footboard to the rear of the tender now also.

Thanks for the tip Woody.  This loco doesn't really have gearboxes, it's all open.  Also, there is no metal to metal gear contact.  The worms and gears on the main shaft are brass, but the worm gears on the drivers and the idler gear between the motor and main shaft are plastic.  Would you still recommend this lapping procedure with the plastic gears?  I could see it being a necessity with all metal gears.

I think most of the noise I experience is from loose tolerances in the main shaft support bushings, and it seems to be isolated to the front set of drivers.  When I reassembled the mechanism, I only put some light oil on the bushings.  I wonder if some thicker oil would do any help or harm?  Or I may possibly need to re-bush the front shaft supports.  Maybe I'll get fancy and make some new supports with ball-bearings.

Thanks Doneldon.

From the research I've done, the Gem model appears to depict the locomotive as it was built by Baldwin.  I've been updating mine to match its later modifications, which included the pilot footboards.

Some good pictures of the prototype on the following site.

http://loggingmallets.railfan.net/list/lr126/littleriver126.htm

Been awhile since I've updated this.  Made a small addition to the layout, added a bridge route across the "bay".





Also picked up my first brass locomotive a while back.  It is a Gem Baldwin 2-4-4-2.  Cleaned and checked it out thoroughly, added and changed a few details, then painted and applied decals.  Installed a Tsunami decoder and high-bass speaker in the tender.  It's a fair runner, not quite as smooth and quiet as the Bachmann's though.  Acceptable at slow speeds and with the sound on.  Probably one of my favorites to run now.  Would still like to change the pilot to the running board type and add some toolboxes and such.











I really need to stop buying stuff, the project list keeps growing.  New projects include a Rivarossi 3-Truck Heisler that needs decals and a pair of Proto RS-2's that need paint, decals, and decoders.  Also picked up a second Bachmann Shay that I plan to modify extensively, will give details and show it off when I get around to starting on it.  

Are you looking for a system with individual buttons for every function?  Or just the ability to control all 28 functions?

I know that my NCE Powercab can control 28 functions, just not with dedicated buttons.

rbryce,
I drew this up in CAD maybe this will help also.  Imagine the green siderods to be near-side, purple would be far-side.  You can see how the green rods trail the purple rods by 1/4 (90 deg) wheel revolution.  Guess I drew them running in reverse.

I tried to find an animation, but didn't have any luck.  Maybe this will help.

http://home.roadrunner.com/~trumpetb/loco/cbal.html

Notice how the position of the crank pins on the wheels, how they are clocked from sided to side.  They are 90 degrees apart.  If they were 180 degrees apart, you would hear only two chuffs.

Maybe 4 chuffs per AXLE revolution is a better term.  What Jonathan is saying is the right and left drive wheels on each axle are indexed 90 degrees out of phase, hence the term "driver quartering".

When the right cylinder is at the ends of its stroke, the left cylinder is mid-stroke.  Each cylinder is still "firing" (not sure what the actual steam term is) at 180 degrees per wheel revolution, but the left and right cylinders are "firing" 90 degrees apart.  This results in you hearing 4 chuffs per wheel revolution when looking at a locomotive from one side.

For what its worth, I have two Russian 2-10-0's and both will run on my 18"R curves with no problems.

Yes, the Powercab does have service and ops mode programming.  I am a Powercab user and can confirm this, use both all the time.  I do not have the booster, however.  But, according to the schutzer article, the SB3a booster does not support programming track mode.  Which, unless I'm misunderstanding the problem and maybe some other things, is the same issue as using the Dynamis with it's respective booster.

I don't believe the Powercab w/ Booster will support a programming track either, at least not according to this.  (See pg 9)

http://schutzer.net/Brass_Clinics/NCE_Users_Forum2011.pdf

It doesn't bother me so much that the hobby shops are more R/C oriented being that, now don't judge me too harshly, I do partake in those hobbies as well.  I have a fondness of assembling things, whether it be trains, planes, cars, boats, and then being able to see those things operate (don't get me started on the whole RTR, ARF, RTF thing ).  But I still don't give the shops my patronage.  Its mostly the lack of knowlege that keeps me away.  If it weren't for this forum and others, I'd have a real problem getting the info that I need.

I'm sad to say I do the majority of my shopping online.  If I had a hobby shop in my area that was worth a darn, I would frequent them more often.  Only things I go for are anymore is building supplies and such.  One of the shops did have a knowledgeable older gentleman that was very helpful, but he retired a number of years ago.  While he was there, I could get about anything I needed and the shop stocked much more train related items.  The shops cater more to the R/C crowd now, and the employees are mostly kids just out of high school that don't know jack about squat.