The difference comes if the steel track isn't kept clean and rusts and conductivity decreases.

Rust... I tried rusting some steel track, left it outside for a while, about six weeks in all kinds of weather, no rust. Was trying to get natural rust on it to use it for an abandoned track scene on my layout. It is zinc coated such as an old water pail or laundry tub, all I got was the white zinc dust oxide!

I also had some old steel track along with NS and brass from up to 50 years ago stored for 35 years in all kinds of environment, wet to damp basements, attics, out buildings and unheated garages, The NS and brass were far worse corroded than the steel, which only had a tiny bit of rust on the tips where the connectors were, removed with wd 40 and a rag.

Since retiring 3 years ago, I came back to the hobby and am still building my layout and have used some of the old track. I jumped into DCC with a vengeance and purchased the Bachmann EZ track for some of my layout, and run in DCC with no problems with using both steel and NS. I do clean it with metal polish, Maas or Flitz once every 6 months, I run my trains every day again with no problems. I use no abrasives whatsoever on my track, scratches, no matter how fine will collect dust, dirt, bits of metal, oil, grease, etc. and will cause problems.

Nice job all the way around, scratchbuilding is one of the most rewarding, can't wait to see more.

I've used a debit card for all my online, pay bills, local purchases, and travel for the past 5 years. Mine is a Visa bank debit card, issued by my bank. It has the same safeguards as a Visa credit card. I believe that Visa and Master  debit cards are both treated like credit cards, but always ask your bank about these issues if you have any doubts, that's what I did. If there is a fraudulent transaction, it's treated the same as a credit card. It seems that some who really get stuck with either their credit or debit cards are by unscrupulous sales people, especially at gas stations, youngsters and foreigners, who carry a swipe card reader for their own criminal activities. Never allow someone to swipe your card on 2 different card readers. And notify the card issuer as soon as there is questionable activity on your statement. It can be reversed on either a credit card or a debit card, but you have to do the footwork. I have never had a problem, but I've known others that have with both type of cards.

Just let me say this. Your first mistake was to go into a hobby store with a Bachmann product or ask for Bachmann products. If it was an Atlas or BLI or even Stewert they would have welcomed you. Why does Bachmann have this still hanging over their heads as a toy product these days I'll never understand. I too am new coming back to this hobby about 5 years now and I am enjoying my Bachmann DCC sytem, simplest and easiest to use and understand. I bought at least 20 DCC locos, OK, I know that Atlas and BLI and Stewert are top of the line and I have several with DCC, and sound. But you can't beat the price of the Bachmann, never had a problem by the way with the decoders, only one toasted in the 5 years, Bachmann, and I run them every day. LOL, I even bought a new Athern with the fine detail, what a joke trying to put the details on it, I'm 64 and sight has gone, potato spuds for hands and fingers cause I worked in construction for most of my life, needless to say I made a mess of it, well just antoher  learning experience and would not buy another unless it was all together. I love Bachmann, take it out of the box, set it on the track and run it Analog or DCC, no muss no fuss. Their steam locos are beautiful and again no fuss, just a little oil on the rods and run. Hey if everybody bought Bachmann their prices would be as high as the top of the line.

Sorry for those who have had the bad experiences with hobby shops. I buy on line most now my nearest hobby shop is 120 mile round trip and they will trow you out if you ask for code 83 anything, LOL.  But I do recommend The Favorite Spot merchant on eBay, he is a Bachmann Man and sells explicitly Bachmann, he will take the time to talk to you on the phone too if you have problems. Highly recommend him.

click this link and scroll down to see how Joe Fugate does it, this is what I plan on doing. It seems it's all in the paint job below and tinting the water. By the way there is all kinds of very useful information on how to on Joes site....enjoy! Jim

http://siskiyou-railfan.net/e107_plugins/forum/forum_viewtopic.php?1270.30

Most MRR's these days use nickle silver exclusively (gray roadbed). As far as the steel (black roadbed) well, I have stored track from my original layout of 35 years ago in basements, garages, out buildings. It consisted of steel track, brass and nickle silver. Now the brass and nickle silver were corroded, but cleaned up nicely. The steel track did not rust except for a tiny bit here and there on the ends and had some  zinc oxide dust that came off with the swipe of the finger. Those that say steel track rust's, well all I can say is I tried rusting a few pieces for use on my layout for an abandoned small freight yard. To make a long story short after 6 months of being in the rain and weather outdoors, LOL, it never rusted. I was trying to make it natural looking. It might rust if stored in a wet basement, but like I said I stored it for 30 years including a damp unheated garage, and in fact it was stored in one of those metal steel outbuildings for 5 years, nothing happened and hardly any rust worth mentioning!

Quote from: Yampa Bob on December 13, 2008, 09:25:55 PM
Bachmann, and most other brands with dual mode decoders, will operate on DC power out of the box. Of course you can only have one loco on the live track at one time, unless you run 2 or more locos in consist.

Even with DCC you should still add extra power feeds at least every 6 feet around the track. Don't count on rail joiners to provide reliable power connection.

Also, don't underestimate the performance of the EZ Command control system. I keep 9 locos on my layout all the time. In two years of running DCC, I have never found the need to adjust CVs.  In fact, the more I read about the complexities of changing CV values, the more I like and enjoy my EZ Command.

I realize I am very much in the minority on this issue, but I enjoy running my trains, with as little hassle as possible. Unless you are running multiple sound equipped locos and need all the "bells and whistles", the EZ Command will serve you well, it is a masterpiece in design and simplicity.  I even bought a second one to have on hand in the unlikely event Bachmann will discontinue the controller.

EZ Command will operate up to 3 non-sound DCC locos at one time. For a single operator with a small layout, that's hard to handle. I rarely run more than one at a time. It's your railroad and your money, but you should ask yourself, do you want to just have fun running trains, or spend a lot of time fiddling with CVs?

Bob you're not alone, everything you said I agree with! 

Ok I'll take a shot..The EZ command stand alone is only 1 amp, if you read the directions that means you can run 2 dcc locos + 1 dc loco. so in order to operate the turnouts and 3 dcc locos you will need a booster. I bought the 5 amp booster from bachmann as an addition 3 years ago and I can run up to 9 dcc loco's, my switches and turnouts I still operate the old fashioned way, LOL I don't trust new technology until it's been used for a couple years such as the dcc turnouts. You need a booster in my opinion. I have 6 main lines and the longest 3 are over 60 feet each or a total of 180 feet just for those 3.  Hope I helped some! Jim

Quote from: db22 on December 12, 2008, 09:23:59 AM
Thanks for the replies: No they are Bachmann plastic frogs. And the Hare and Wabbit look very impressive but I'm not at that level yet so I think that I will sniff the position and enable a bi-color LED.

I have the tortise machines and my leds on my map are connected directly to the tortise without the "hare".

You may want to check this out, you need a relay of sorts to operate the leds, if you are using the simple atlas switch machines with the push button momentary charge, it will not work the led. The atlas or bacmann switches are ac and you need dc for the leds or use a diode to change the current flow from ac to dc. Atlas has fixed the problem with switch realy leds with this relay, a bit pricey but worth it. I use 4 of these to light my turnout positions on my map. These trunouts are in mountain tunnels and i would sometimes forget and have a derailment, no more! I do have excess to the turnouts, but I hate derailments!

http://cgi.ebay.com/Atlas-200-Snap-Relay-HO-N_W0QQitemZ170218824420QQihZ007QQcategoryZ19131QQtcZphotoQQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1742.m153.l1262

I bought that same loco, susquehana too about 3 years ago. The one I purchased is DCC only, check the box again, make sure the number on the box is the same as on the loco. If you only run analog, you can remove the decoder and wire it to conventional DC. Make a sketch of the wiring if you some day want to run it DCC in the future. I do believe those decoders are DCC only in the older decopod models.

Whatever you do, DO NOT try this at home or at work!

OK, I'll take a shot.

Put the track on plywood, high pyle carpet is too unstable.

Check the rails and make sure they are connected properly, run your finger over the top of the rail to make sure it is smooth at the joint, if not it is not in the connector properly.

Try running at a lower speed.

Need more info...what's the radius of your curves?

Climatologist's say we're in a cool down cycle and for the next 10 years.

But if it gets too hot install an airconditioner in your train room or heat if it gets too cold.

I just felt a need to reply to this thread. If you want nickle siver instead of steel with EZ track, the gray roadbed is nickle silver and the black roadbed is steel. I used both!

Quote from: WGL on October 19, 2008, 03:40:17 AM

Quote from: Rangerover on October 07, 2008, 10:27:00 AM
I run 6 trains at one time and it can get quite confusing at times. I normally run no more than 3 trains, that's enough for me to take care of.

Rangerover,
  How many tracks do you have for running 3-6 trains?  I have 2 concentric ovals connected by switches so that I can run 2 trains separately from my EZ Command Control.  I have tried running 3 trains, with 2 on the same track, but they require constant attention.  I may add a third oval to run 3 trains without worrying about collisions.

My pike is a total of 6 main lines, I have 4 on the top level, the longest run is 61 ft. It is U shaped with 2 subway lines under the table with access from the top/yard to the subway. Not including the mountain heights it is basically 4 ft table leg height. The subway is 9 inches below or 39 inches from the floor. I am rerouting my yard due to some very tight curves, when I finish that I will post some pics. I have a 15 stall roundhouse with turntable that I'm thinking about tearing out, nice to look at and draws attention, but a real Real Estate grabber. If I decide to remove it, I'll take pics before and after.