I've recently purchased a Bowser 90 TT that runs like a dream very smooth and quiet. The detail is also excellent.

brad

The "shorting plug is a 6 pin plug that plugs into the DCC socket so that the engine will run on DC systems. It effectively makes a dirrect contact from the pickups on the wheels to the motor and lights. If it runs fine on dc layouts but not a DCC layout I would be more inclined to faul the layout rather than the loco. If you are hearing a humming coming from the engine on a DCC layout it isn't shorting, thats just what they do because of the AC track power of the DCC. Set a thottle to "0" and try it ,most systems will support one non-DCC loco, but I know the new MRC Prodigy systems won't.

Happy Rails.

brad

Yampa Bob,

Try Sylvan models, They make a range of log houses and buildings, although of an older "homestead" prototype.

brad

The yellow glow is more correct for a shay and climax as they would have had old incandescent lights that were more yellow, not the white or blue of todays halogen or HID lighting systems. I've looked at my shay and can't see any way of getting it out. CAREFULLY???

Good luck

brad

I've built the S&S theatre which was a lot of fun and came out quite nicely, the brick detail is very fine and more to scale. There was a lot of air bubbles that needed to be filled but some were left to represent crumbling brick. I've thought about buildijng a rail car or 2, but the thought of drilling all those holes in what some of the guys have described as glass has stopped me. Maybe some day........

brad

If it is under warrantee send it back in. If not,contact service and for $25 they'll fix your loco ((read replace) If you have customised your loco they will send you old shell back along with the new one. Unless you have the propper tools to pull the drivers off the axle to replace the gear and make sure the wheels are in quarter when you replace them you'll have lots of problems. And the NWSL tools will cost you more than the $25.

brad

I had a 2-10-2 with the same problem. Yes it was out of quarter. Sent it back to B-mann and got a new one that they test ran and it had no problems.  They were most helpfull and fast.

brad

Nice work,

One small suggestion, take it or leave it. I would leave the turntable off and put a small stub ended yard in it's place. It looks out of place without an engine facility, and it really overpowers that end of the railroad as far as a focal point.  I really like the shot looking down the track along the UP plug door car.

brad

Check out "The Favorite Spot" store on E-bay. They are a factory authorised dealer and have very GOOD pprices and fast service. They are also a bricks and mortar shop if you have any qualms about dealing with "virtual" shops

brad

My Bachmann 2-10-2 runs beautifully around my layout and I have 2,  24 inch curves, no problems. If you get him this loco tell him to listen to it closely when he first runs it for a clicking sound which may indicate a cracked gear.

brad

I've purchased from The Favorite Spot on 5 different occasions and have never had a problem. Always fast service and well packaged. Other places Ive dealt with is Bessemer Hobbies and of coarse Mitch from Hobbies USA.

brad

I remember reading an article some years back about adding a spring similar to those used on PECO turnouts to help push the point rails against the stock rails for better electrical contact and positive track alignment. Can anyone remember where this article might be from? Or, has anyone done this and could give me an idea. I'm using code 70 Shinohara turnouts.

As always thanks in advance.

brad

I have the Advance system and enjoy it a great deal. I like being able to program on the main  or on a programming track it it will control all the functiuons I ever plan to use. Switching between cabs is very easy using the recall button, I have no problems running 3 or 4 trains at the same time, and MUing is a breeze. As for a small instruction manual. It's a very easy to use system, why complivcate it?  everything you need to know is in the book

brad

Gene,

If you need 39" or less consider picking up a piece of Shinohara track, it's 39" long and may save you a splice.

brad

I've used sanding screens for drywall and they work great ... for drywall.  It is basically non-clogging sandpaper, but is still sandpaper. If a brightboy(or blue ink eraser) won't clean your track try a 3-M Scotchbrite pad

brad