Got a SAE small hex driver kit today and the smallest was 3/32nd - at it was still too big. I think the nuts are 1/16th but searching google, I can't find a nut driver that small. Tried to use a needle nose wrench but I'm afraid I messed up the shape on the nut. I'm about to give up and ship this thing back to Bachmann for repair. So close but no cigar.

Eric

Actually, it seemed like many of the posts referred to the cracked gear on the third wheel set from the front, but none of them explained how to remedy. So I will attempt to do it if Bach-man won't or can't.

1. To determine if your Connie isn't moving because of a broken gear, flip it on it's back. I like to use the styro carton it came in.
2. Remove the gear cover. It is the roundish thing aligned over (or under when flipped upright) the third wheel set from the front. As mentioned elsewhwere in this forum, use caution with the screws on these units because they are soft and the heads bore out easily or will strip easily. I know from experience.
3. Inspect the gear for a crack. Another FBI clue is the gear will spin on the axel.
4. If broken. call Bachman service techs.  Ask them to send you a screw set too - an assortment of screws for the Connie in the event you need it. They will send you a set of incomprehensible schematics.
http://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/service.php
5. Before the wheel set comes, go out and get yourself a set of hex drivers in very small sizes. Get US sizes - I got metric today thinking the thing was made in China...duh me. I'm not sure what size the hex screws are because I haven't tried it yet. I got my set at a well stocked robotics supply store. none of the hardware stores had something like this.
6. Once the wheel arrives, remove the wheel hold downs. They are the strips that hold the wheels to the frame. They run most of the length of the under carriage and have eight ( small philips screws each. Caution with the screws.
7. Now peel back the linkage. Careful not to let the various pins and springs pop out. These things reside between the wheel mounts and upper frame. Do this over a flat clean surface so you can retrieve them easily when they do pop out.
8. Next unscrew the counter-weights. Those funny quarter circle thingys next to the wheels. Nothing comes off at this point. The only thing you will see happening is the center of the wheels will begin to pertrude (sp?).
9. This is as far as i'v gotten until I get my hex head set but I am reporting what the nice elderly service guy at Bachman told me. Next, I need to remove the linkage from the counter weights. Refer to the hex bolts adjacent the counter weights on the linkage. I want to remove any three of the four hex bolts from the side where the wheel is marked 3R on the inside. Remove two of four from the wheel marked 3L. He indicated it didn't matter which nuts you removed. I kind of got the feeling they should all be together. You should be able to free the counter weights and wheel set away from the linkage.
10. Insert the new wheel set and go in reverse to close it up.

I'm jumping the gun in relaying these instructions as I haven't gotten thru step 9 but part of this excercise is to record notes for myself later on. Anyone have anything to add?
I'm still hoping there is a more difinative set of instructions somehwere in this forum - but I have not found them yet - and I did use search.

Hope this helps someone else in my situation.

Edit: I forgot to mention to use care in re-assembling the counter weights and linkage. There may be trouble if they don't go back together exactly as original. Refer to posts on "quartering" for a better explanation. Eric

Hi Bach-man,
Seems a number of us have had final gear issues on the Spectrum Consolidated 2-8-0. Any chance you could give us a run down of the best way to resolve this? 
#1 - how to diagnose
#2 - who to call
#3 - details and pics on how to remove the broken wheel set
#4 - details and pics on how to install the new wheel set
#5 - a reminder about lubrication

I took the liberty of consolidating all of the more recent posts on the issue (too much time on my hands?) Seems to be a common problem with this unit. Thanks, Eric

11/29/08 jebouck
http://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/board/index.php/topic,7290.0.html
11/17/08 etjensen
http://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/board/index.php/topic,7181.0.html
11/16/08 lqdsky
http://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/board/index.php/topic,7172.0.html
10/4/08 shayman_2001
http://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/board/index.php/topic,6769.0.html
8/12/08 guy tyteca
http://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/board/index.php/topic,6345.0.html
5/14/08 Dave
http://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/board/index.php/topic,5490.0.html
4/21/08 spla13
http://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/board/index.php/topic,5274.0.html
4/5/08 bigreds
http://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/board/index.php/topic,5114.0.html
4/4/08 spla13
http://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/board/index.php/topic,5095.0.html
4/3/08 bigreds
http://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/board/index.php/topic,5094.0.html
1/30/08 Dave
http://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/board/index.php/topic,4259.0.html
3/30/08 Dave
http://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/board/index.php/topic,5038.0.html

I'm going thru the same problem. Getting resolved slowly...

http://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/board/index.php/topic,7181.0.html

Anyone know how to remove the drive wheels? I figured out the screws on the axel ends. Opened them to limit, but it's not obvious how to seperate the wheels from the weights and rods.

BTW-Bachman sent out replacements quickly. I'll call them tomorrow if no reply and report back.

Thanks for the advise guys. I did try to take the undercarrage apart to get into the gears/motor. Couldn't figure out the rod extraction/disassembly os put it back together but idd notice the gear box flops around and the "second gear in" does not turn when the wheels turn. It will turn if I stick simething in there to turn it but not by the wheels. May have to get back into the gear box and look for that crack BIll or Dave talked about. But alas, I stripped out the screw slot on one of the screws. Argh.
Getting through to Bachmann is all voicemail so I guess I'll keep trying.

ej

My "brand new out of the box" Deadwood Central 2-8-0 (gift from bro) is on an eight foot section of straight track powered by a "new out of the box" MRC220 (23vdc max output) linear transformer. The loco lights turn on and when I increase the throttle, the loco "clicks" from below but the wheels barely turn. If I give it a shove, it travels a distance at a very low speed. It acts like locos with dirty track/wheels would but everything is clean.

I'm just getting back into the hobby after a 30 year hiatus. Yesterday inadvertadly powered the track with AC side of the transformer. Duh - thinking Lionel for some reason. Could I have fried the motor windings? If I did - should I bother trying to get it repaired?

Losing sleep thinking I destroyed a very expensive present. Help! Call a shrink!