You should be able to use 22"R, 18"R, and 15" radius curved track pieces. However - assuming your in HO - you will find that some (perhaps many) engines and cars will have trouble navigating the 15"R curves. Although 18"R has been the 'minimum' minimum range in HO for some time, many manufacturers are now recommending running their equipment on 22"R or larger curves.

You might find one loop of 22"R track with room for spur tracks to industries and for buildings and scenery might prove to be more appealing in the long run.

Actually, there are a few color photos of the Dreyfuss Hudsons - but not many! Several are in the book "Michigan Central Trackside with Emory Gulash", by Geoffrey H Doughty. The photo (from a Kodachrome slide) on page 10 showing a Hudson pulling NYC's "The Mercury" in 1941 appears to me to match the Bachmann engine's colors quite well.

I remember years ago the uproar when Stewart came out with models of CB&Q F-units, using the correct color of gray used on the real engines. On the rails in the sunlight, the real engines looked almost white. But under indoor lights (like a hobby shop or our layouts) they looked way too dark. Generally, it's better to err on the side of being a little too light; plus I find it's easier to weather an engine with a dark wash or powdered charcoal to make it darker, than it is to lighten it.

Does F7 dim the headlight? Is it on full brightness even in reverse?

I always like to start with the easiest solution and see what happens, so maybe first double check you didn't accidently hit F8 to mute them - though seems unlikely that would have happened to both engines (unless both have the same ID number). Then, try doing a factory reset, which should be described in the instructions that came with them. The engines should then revert back to ID 03/003. Try it and see if that works.

Yes, but you will only be able to control one train at a time. So you can set an engine and train running at a set speed on one track, and then leave it running and then call up the ID of the other engine and then run that. You can switch back and forth, leave one running on it's own while directly controlling the other. To control both at the same time, you'll need to add a second, plug-in throttle to connect to your DCC system, or have one of the DCC systems that come with two throttles built in.

Converting an old (pre-DCC era) engine to sound is, in my experience, much harder than just converting it to DCC. You have to get the decoder installed and find room for a speaker and it's enclosure. In some cases, I've just given up and bought a new version of the engine and swapped body shells...although in some cases, the new bodies of the diesels are much better detailed than the old ones.

Anyway, non-sound DCC decoders aren't that pricey compared to sound decoders, for the cost of one sound decoder you could buy like 3 non-sound ones to convert your old DC engines with. Maybe look into ones with some version of "keep alive" or "power pack" if the old engines - like many old steam engines - don't pick up power all that well.

Generally, an engine will start more smoothly with CV2 at zero. If you're using 128 speed steps and set CV2 at 20, when you move the throttle to speed step 1 the engine it will jump from 0 to speed step 20. I usually only use CV2 if I have two engines I want to speed match, and one is a little more sluggish getting started.

You may find adjusting CV66 (Forward Trim) and CV 95 (Reverse Trim) up or down from the default 128 may make the engine run slower or faster.

Well, but that sort of difference is more common with words rather than family names. Apparently all UK modelers say it that way, so I don't think it's a one-off thing or a joke.

Maybe Bachmann should add a little pronunciation reminder on it's UK "Branchline" OO trains website?

https://www.bachmann.co.uk/category/model-railway/branchline

I noticed watching some British modelers on YouTube recently that when discussing Bachmann's UK products they pronounce Bachmann "BACK-mun" rather than "BOCK-mun".

Seems a bit odd, any idea why? 

I have two of the Bachmann freight cars factory-equipped with the flashing EOT and am very impressed by how well they work. I would love to see Bachmann use that technology to add working markers to their very nice bay window caboose models as an option.

Yup, that's where it was hiding - under the dome next to the stack. Once I got that one (and the two under the cab) out, the body came right off.

Thanks to all!

Thanks for the replies. I took the front pony truck off, that screw isn't holding it in place. I removed the three small screws holding the bottom part of the chassis - the part keeping the drivers in place - and there's nothing under there either.  I know I had one engine long ago (old Life-Like 2-8-8-2) where you had to remove one of the domes, maybe this one does that too?

Hi, I need to take the body shell off this engine. I found the two screws under the cab OK, but there is apparently one or more other screws holding the body on that I can't find. I've been looking at the 'exploded view' diagram for a while, but if it's there I can't see it. Anyone know what I'm missing? Thanks.

Yes, compared to other working signals, 3 for $35 (actually a little less since I'm a Walthers "Yardmaster") made them worth trying.

I did contact Walthers, they said that they contacted Bachmann who confirmed it was only one signal, and that they (Walthers) understood how I could be "confused", and could return it for a refund.

I replied pointing out I didn't appear to be the one who was "confused". It would have been nice for them to at least acknowledge the error on their part.

The Bachmann 2020 print catalogue shows it as a three-pack of signals. The Bachmann website appears to have the correct information at this point.

Even my receipt slip that came with the Walthers order says "BAC 160-39115  3 Color Lighted Sig 3pk".