Hi all,

Wow it has been a long time since I posted. I am having some trouble with a brass locomotive I recently acquired. The locomotive is a KEY Imports N&W K-1 4-8-2 that is factory painted. After close examination I found some areas that are gray in color and look fuzzy. I can only assume that this is some type of brass corrosion...curious since this model is factory painting. I do not believe it to be foam rot as both the locomotive and tender are wrapped in plastic and the foam insert is in excellent condition. I have changed the way the locomotive is stored (It is current in a display case) but still need to know how to clean up the mess. The fuzz is found on the lead pilot truck, several screws, and a few other random places. The pilot truck is the worst off. What I want to know is:

1. How and what do I use to clean it?

2. If I clean it and then paint over it, will that seal it or will I be back to square one in a couple of years?

Thanks in advance!

-Brad

Hi all,

Bear with me, this might get a little winded...

I acquired some older Bachmann (AHM/Rivarossi cars with a Bachmann label) passenger cars (Norfolk & Western: Powhatan Arrow) and have been working on getting them into better shape. I have gotten ride of the stock horn hook couplers and used Kadee #505 conversion kits to replace those. They run ok. I thought that maybe putting new Kadee wheels (keeping the original plastic trucks) on the cars would make them ride better...this turned out to not be true as the plastic brake rigging drags on the kadees. So I put the original wheels back on. I weighed the cars and found them 2.75 oz shy of NMRA standards. I figure the added weight will help but I have no idea where to add it. I opened the car and there isn't much space in there. Anyone else do this before and guide me through the process or give me ideas? Should I scrap the original trucks and get metal replacements? I would rather not do this because of all the work I just put into the coupler conversions.

Thanks

-Brad
Columbus OH

Hi all,

What is your recommended epoxy/glue for reattaching broken off detail parts? This will be a plastic to plastic job. Thanks!

-Brad

Got it figured. Needed a 1000 ohm resistor. I do own a multimeter. I have no idea how someone could get through a brass decoder install without one...great tool. Found this article to be helpful: http://www.wiringfordcc.com/gorhlite.htm. Runs like a dream and now I have forward and reverse lights too.
Thanks all!

-Brad

I forgot, I'm running Bachmann's EZ Command. I'll look at the links when I get the chance. Most likely not till tomorrow. I'm electrically handicapped so any any all explanation would be great.

-Brad

Hi all,

I hope everyone is enjoying the Holiday season. My question is on calculating resistor values. I'm doing a HO scale brass locomotive installation but figured this topic can cover a wide assortment of scales and applications.

I have a Digitrax DH123D decoder. It is a 1.5 Amp/2 Amp peak decoder. I purchased incandescent lamps made by Miniatronics Corp. They are 1.5 Volt 15mA lights. How do I calculate the value of the resistor I need to install on the front/backup lights?

I figure this information can be used across a wide range of applications so I hope Bachmann will forgive the other product references.

Thanks for the help,
Brad

Very Excited! I know it's not set in stone, but I'm still anticipating great things from this.


-Brad

Striker,

If you go with the con-cor cars, you will be disappointed with the color. I will guarantee that! If you search long and hard, individual Bachmann cars do pop up for sale. Then you will have an exact color match.

-Brad

Striker,

The MTH 5 car set is very nice if you want to get the most bang for your buck.. Brass is out the window if money is tight. My advice... Be on the lookout for Rivarossi cars that where made a while ago. They came in white box's with Bachmann labels.

Here is an example:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Rivarossi-Ho-Scale-Norfolk-Western-4-car-passenger-coach-set-interiors-/290839704783?pt=Model_RR_Trains&hash=item43b765b4cf

They will need new couplers and metal wheelsets would be a nice touch too.

I picked up a six car set in mint condition for about $100. Whats great is that they match the Bachmann J very well. I'll post a picture when I have more time later. In my opinion the MTH cars are too purple but the "proper" N&W red color is an animal all it's own.

Good luck,
Brad

Amtrak locomotive #803 is a GE P40DC. Not sure if this is what you were looking for.


-Brad

QuoteYeah, saw that one also but did not want to link to the Bachmann site because of all the other manufacturers.

Good point! But if they take offense to linking to a magazine that promotes them/they advertise in, that's a little over the top. I didn't see any N&W unit?

http://mrr.trains.com/en/News%20and%20Reviews/New%20Products/2012/10/iHobby%20Expo%20show%20report.aspx

Announced at the iHobby Expo...NS heritage units.

http://youtu.be/3Tiee5k7aXY?t=1m54s

Start at 1:54

QuoteHOWEVER, if you turn on the sound and closely observe the chuffs

The chuff is a gimmick and not in time with the animation. I watched with the sound on and after 2 rotations the sound wasn't even close to right.

-Brad

Doneldon,

I just posted the link and didn't look very hard last night. Sounds like they have some good info. Thanks for the tip!

-Brad

QuoteWith the price of brass coming down all around, an E2a won't cost as much anymore the NWSL one can be had for $150-200 and same with the E3 I saw one on eBay sell for $150 obo and I almost went for it

Believe me, I've been watching. The problem being that those models are known for having bad gear boxes, So I'll have to replace that and put a can motor in it, so I can add a decoder, and then paint it or repaint. I don't have the means or the skills to paint, so I'd have to out source the job ($$). I would want the headlight centered version but that is the wrong tender for early to mid 50's operations. So I think taking a USRA light pacific, getting a new tender and adding some details is the better option.

Still waiting on Bachmann or someone to make an N&W M 4-8-0. I almost bought an PSC M2c awhile ago but then my car died...So money had to go elsewhere.

-Brad