Mr. B,

Any hopes in the future for a 90 degree crossing in EZ track?  I'm going to need two for a future expansion.


Bill

I bought some Bachmann EZ track in hopes of curing an unleveled part of my layout.  I have 2 questions.

1. Before I tear out my old track, could someone advise me how to connect my existing track to the elevated Bachmann piece.  Currently the old track is attached to cork roadbed and it appears to be about an eighth to one sixteenth of an inch in elevation separation.  I know I must cut the plastic connectors on the EZ track in order to mate with my old code 83 track.  I only have about 2 inches to play with.

2.  The EZ track has a very low cross tie profile and I prefer to have my ties showing through the ballast.  In gluing my ballast down, should I affix my ballast down first then glue, or glue the roadbed first then smooth it out?

Any ideas would certainly be appreciated.

Bill

I'm trying to make a curved crossover consisting of one 22 in. radius curved atlas snap track through which a section Atlas straight track crosses about 15 degrees.  I have already ruined two curved pieces, one straight piece and one 15 degree crossover in trying to manufacture this nightmare. 

I.m about to give up, so my question is this.  Is anyone aware of any manufacturer that makes any kind of curved crossover?

Thanks for any kind of help,

Bill

Didn't now whether to post this on the general threads or HO.  Since more people respond to HO I'll ask my question here.

One of my grandsons and I watch "Trains and Locomotives" on TV and the other day they had a program where a 2-8-0 Consolidation was belching out black smoke in one scene and a few moments later the same engine was throwing out white smoke.  My grandson asked me what was the engine crew doing different that made the smoke black one time and white the next.  Well, I've never thought about that and I told him I didn't know, but I know some good friends that do.  So would someone be kind enough to help me on this question?

Thanks, Bill

I have an old P2K 0-8-0 in which the driver screw (or bolt) has come loose and disappeared somewhere in my roadbed.  It is a threaded screw with a hexagonal head. 

Does anyone know of a website in which I could look up a part number and order one?  I've tried Walther's but no luck.

Oh yeah....if anyone has, by chance, their parts sheet for their loco, I would appreciate the parts number.  The screw in question is the one connecting the right rear driver to the right rear wheel.

Thanks, Bill

Forgive me for asking about a non-Bachmann item, but since they don't manufacture one I don't see any harm.

I'm in the initial stages of planning my 4th and final layout since I've been absent from the hobby for a couple of years.
I'm thinking of having a 7.5 Shinohara right turnout leading into my yards, but I need to know what the outer and inner radii are.

Also, has anyone had any experience with the Shinohara three track turn out? I'm really concerned with any wiring anomalies or electrical contact problems.

Thanks for any advice.

Bill

I'm in the process of making a two lane, asphalt colored, highway for my layout.  I model from the 40s to the 50s or the transition period.  I can't recall the proper lane colors used during this time span.  Was the center line solid white or broken? Also did the use yellow "no passings" lanes at that time?  Thanks to all.

Bill

After 50 plus years I have dug out my old Lionel set and have started to set it up.  My question is this.  For the life of me I cannot remember how to connect my Lionel solenoid switches to my transformer.  I have a LW 125 watt transformer with five terminals listed as U, B, A, A, and C.  The two double A terminals are listed as "common".  I have my track connector wires connected to U and A.  They work fine.  To which terminals do I connect the three wires from the turnout? 

Thanks, Bill

I have a Lionel 675 steam locomotive which is listed as a K4 Pacific.  Unfortunately it is a Prairie with a 2-6-2 wheel arrangement.  I'm trying to locate a 4 wheel truck arrangement to change it into a true 4-6-2 Pacific.  Does anyone know a manufacturer that offers a 4 wheeled pilot truck that may fit the 675?  I've checked eBay for months and unfortunately the only items close to that are 4 wheel trailing trucks in which some of these sellers think it is for the leading trucks. needless to say they don't fit.

Thanks for any advice, Bill

I hope to attempt spray painting my O scale F-3 in the Rock Island Rocket scheme.  It is comprised primarily of three colors, aluminum-white, Maroon and Red.  It's not too unlike the Santa Fe war bonnet scheme.  My question is this.  Sections of the carbody will have to be taped while painting the remainder.  What type of tape should be used? I'm thinking of using blue painters tape since it doesn't stick very hard to styrene.  However I'm curious if it allows under spray beneath the tape?  Also does it conform and protect the molded parts like the rivets and other detail parts?  Other than blue painters tape, is there any other on the market that could be used for modeling?

Thanks, Bill

I recently ran my old post war Lionel passenger cars and remembered how the lights flickered while running.  I have cleaned the electrical pick up rollers and checked that all wires were tight and properly connected to the light harness.  Still they flickered.  Does anyone have any idea how to overcome this problem short of replacing the entire lighting harness?

Thanks, Bill

As I mentioned in another thread I'm just beginning in O scale and have a few neophyte questions about this gauge.  The only transformer I have is a MRC280 which I use on my HO layout.  I've connected it to several sections of O scale track and none of my o gauge engines run.  They hum, but no movement.  I've connected this transformer through Cab 1 which is DC. Both Cab 1 and Cab 2 provide 14.5vdc and 8.5va. I don't know how many watts the transformer is rated for.  I have two questions:  One, is the MRC280 transformer insufficient to power an O gauge engine? And secondly, before I connect the AC (accessory) terminals up to the track and risk smoke and fire, should these terminals be used for power?

I've been in model railroading for years, but this is my first foray into O gauge.  I have come across some O gauge engines and cars but I don't have any track.  My fist question is: what is the difference in O gauge and O 27 track?  Are the two compatible with each other?  In other words are the codes (height of the rails) compatible as compared to code 83 and code 100 in HO scale.

Thanks, Bill

Roger,

As a follow up to the thread I just sent you, search for a thread entitled "2-8-2 kitbash for RogerT" dated October 20, 2007.  At the bottom of that thread is a picture of the conversion.

Bill

I bought a Con Car passenger car at a train swap for $1.00 but it doesn't have any  trucks.  Does anyone know what 4 wheeled trucks from other manufacturers may fit it?

Thanks, Bill

Yesterday I ran across a yard sale where a guy was sellling a mixture of O scale trains and O 27 scale.  His track was primarily O27.  Can an O gauge engine run on O 27 track?  Also is it possible to mix the two different gauge tracks together?

Is there any legal difference when a railroad abandons its lines as compared with its right-of-way? In particular is a railroad under any obligation to remove the rails or can they be left in place?  I thought they were one and the same.  This question arose when a friend of mine was over for an operation session and I mentioned that I had a short section of abandoned line in which the rails were still present but was inoperable.  He said the rails had been abandoned but the right-of-way was still under the jurisdiction of the creditors of the bankrupt railroad.

Mercy me...I'd hate to be operating illegally.

Thanks, Bill

Does anyone know of a manufacturer who makes electrified trucks?  I'm trying to illuminate a caboose and I would prefer to pick up the power from the tracks.  I prefer this method rather than using a battery or making my own home made connections. I've checked at my LHS, Walthers and eBay, but either I'm putting the wrong words in the search function, or there are none available.

Thanks for any help.
Bill

I've got a house with a front porch that is screaming to have a screened porch.  I really don't know where to search for "screen" in HO scale.  If anyone knows of a manufacturer or a substitute product that would pass for screen, I would appreciate some information on it.

Secondly, I'm looking for a tender dog house around the 1940 era to go on my Bachmann 2-8-2 SY.  I've checked Walther's, e-bay and Cal Scale and haven't found one suitable. Again, any help would be appreciated.

Thanks, Bill

Jeffry,
In another thread I started asking about Peco turnouts, you mentioned you hand lay your track.  Iam starting to build a cross over where a curved track crosses a straight section.  If you subscribe to MR, a picture of what I am trying to construct is on the cover page of the April 2009 issue.

I have started by using a sharp razor saw and cut the lengths from a section of Atlas 83 code, 22" radius curved section.  I remove most of the plastic ties, but keep some connected primarily to ensure the guage remains the same. I use the same technique on the straight portion of the crossover.

My question lies in how to wire the pieces of rail in between the gaps of the respective curved and straight rails.  The only way I can think of is to solder a small piece of wiring from the powered rails of the respective straight and curved sections to the interior rails of the crossover. Or, as I was typing this, I was wondering if I should remove all the ties, solder the individual pieces and then reassemble the rails to the ties.

If you or anyone else has any suggestions, I would certainly appreciae it.

Thanks again, Bill