Hi all,

Wow it has been a long time since I posted. I am having some trouble with a brass locomotive I recently acquired. The locomotive is a KEY Imports N&W K-1 4-8-2 that is factory painted. After close examination I found some areas that are gray in color and look fuzzy. I can only assume that this is some type of brass corrosion...curious since this model is factory painting. I do not believe it to be foam rot as both the locomotive and tender are wrapped in plastic and the foam insert is in excellent condition. I have changed the way the locomotive is stored (It is current in a display case) but still need to know how to clean up the mess. The fuzz is found on the lead pilot truck, several screws, and a few other random places. The pilot truck is the worst off. What I want to know is:

1. How and what do I use to clean it?

2. If I clean it and then paint over it, will that seal it or will I be back to square one in a couple of years?

Thanks in advance!

-Brad

Hi all,

Bear with me, this might get a little winded...

I acquired some older Bachmann (AHM/Rivarossi cars with a Bachmann label) passenger cars (Norfolk & Western: Powhatan Arrow) and have been working on getting them into better shape. I have gotten ride of the stock horn hook couplers and used Kadee #505 conversion kits to replace those. They run ok. I thought that maybe putting new Kadee wheels (keeping the original plastic trucks) on the cars would make them ride better...this turned out to not be true as the plastic brake rigging drags on the kadees. So I put the original wheels back on. I weighed the cars and found them 2.75 oz shy of NMRA standards. I figure the added weight will help but I have no idea where to add it. I opened the car and there isn't much space in there. Anyone else do this before and guide me through the process or give me ideas? Should I scrap the original trucks and get metal replacements? I would rather not do this because of all the work I just put into the coupler conversions.

Thanks

-Brad
Columbus OH

Hi all,

What is your recommended epoxy/glue for reattaching broken off detail parts? This will be a plastic to plastic job. Thanks!

-Brad

Hi all,

I hope everyone is enjoying the Holiday season. My question is on calculating resistor values. I'm doing a HO scale brass locomotive installation but figured this topic can cover a wide assortment of scales and applications.

I have a Digitrax DH123D decoder. It is a 1.5 Amp/2 Amp peak decoder. I purchased incandescent lamps made by Miniatronics Corp. They are 1.5 Volt 15mA lights. How do I calculate the value of the resistor I need to install on the front/backup lights?

I figure this information can be used across a wide range of applications so I hope Bachmann will forgive the other product references.

Thanks for the help,
Brad

Taking suggestions on how to power lights! I run DCC with my EZ-Command and I have one old Bachmann DC/AC transformer wall wart powering my turnout controls (Using the AC terminals). I have scratch built a station and have tried to add lights. I purchased a DC bulb...mounted it and tested it...works great. The problem is I don't have enough juice to run both the light and the switches at the same time. I also have built another building that I wish to light with multiple lights. What do I use as a power source? Another wall wart? Anyone know of something a little more heavy duty...I'm planning more buildings and more lights?

-Brad

I just acquired a set of like new Bachmann N&W Powhatten Arrow passenger cars.  Very happy with them even though everyone seems to talk trash about them. I would like to install lights, knuckle couplers, and possibly new trucks. The trucks can wait and I'm not ready to tackle lights just yet but the couplers need to be changed (They are the old horn hook/X2F type). My question is what couplers to buy? I would like them to be body mounted and I'm pretty sure Bachmann doesn't offer anything of that sort. That means they will be Kadees. Any idea what I need to purchase? i'm not super family with anything outside of Bachmann couplers. Thanks for any input.

-Brad

Hi all,
I've just purchased a brass two truck shay and I'm looking at getting some cars for her to pull. My question is... what is the difference between the two log cars Bachmann offers? Obviously they are meant for different eras, but what is the physical difference (if any) between them?

Thanks,
Brad

For those of you not familiar...

1906-1935 http://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/products.php?act=viewProd&productId=609

1935-1960 http://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/products.php?act=viewProd&productId=610

Pros: I'll get a fresh start at a layout. Things that are terribly frustrating with the current layout can be corrected.

Cons: I'll have to start from square one. That's a lot of work, time, money, etc.

Of course everything that can be saved from the current layout will be. My main question is, what is the best way to pack equipment?

Thanks for the input,
Brad

Can I use the Bachmann EZ command to reset the address of a decoder to factory 3 when it is currently set to a long address? I'm pretty sure the answer is no but decided I would double check with the Bachmann think tank.

This is the one Bachmann purchase I'm regretting more and more as time goes by.

Thanks in advance,
Brad

Just received the parts I ordered (new gears) and installed them. Now all the wheels are powered again but the last truck wobbles really bad and derails the tender at random...even on straight pieces of track. I tried taking it apart and putting it back together again several times. Any thoughts as to what might be causing this?

Thanks,
Brad

Where does Northwest Short line Brass fall in the lineup of brass manufactures? Good running products or stay away? Jonathan's project might have convinced me to try my own Brass project...

-Brad

It seems in my first attempt at lubrication, I over did it on my HO Y6b. I lubricated about a month ago and this week it started slipping on my grade with only 6 freight cars (All metal wheels and weighted). Come to find out that the loco has started to release a bit of its spare oil. Do I let it sit so all the extra comes out? Do I run it to try and work it off? Your thoughts are appreciated.

-Brad

Fantastic film! I enjoyed it and recommend it to any train enthusiast.

I didn't know if I should post this in General Discussion or Ho but here we go...

Anybody know of a company that does high quality locomotive scratch builds/kitbashing? I feel like with all the "I want one of these" there would be a good market if the company did a good enough job. Thoughts?

Hope everyone is enjoying their summer,
Brad

I have never liked smoke. It smells (There is that no odor stuff), it gets everywhere, and in my opinion it doesn't look very good. Though the BLI/MTH smoke genorators with the chuff are a kind of cool.

I haven't even liked sound that long. Everytime I heard it I was not impressed. I just purchased my first sound locomotive (BLI N&W A) and its alright. Maybe its because I haven't messed with any CVs at all. I like sound some of the time and some of the time I like to just shut it off.

The reason I bring this up is I am also a part of the BLI forum. They all request engines that have been done by other companies like a berk for example and say there is a great need for them. I don't see the need as several other companies make a berk. The only reason the want BLI to do it is for smoke and sound. (OK getting off my soap box).


The real reason I posted this is because I wanted to hear your opinion of smoke/sound.


-Brad

I know this has been discussed before and I have searched the forum but I am still a bit confused. The #6 remote crossover product number 44575 (found here: http://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/products.php?act=viewProd&productId=173) is what I am wondering about. If I wish to expand my single 22 inch radius loop into a double, what radius do I need to go with it?. Furthermore, What are the specs of this turnout? How long, how wide, how far way are the rails from each other? Thanks for the help.

-Brad

Now that it is about mid way through construction I am glad my first layout was small. Really it was a test site for all the ideas I have gleaned from magazines, the forum, online, and my local hobby shop.

It's an 8ft by 5ft 6in table that stands only 30 inches of the ground. This is because when not in use, it is folded up against the wall in my basement. It has an outside 22in radius loop and an inside 18in radius loop. There are 2 turnouts connecting the loops, one in the back and one in the front. The front one goes over a crossover and on a half loop to finally connect with the inner loop. I also have on siding. As it has taken several years to build I can see were my boyish and inexperienced younger self (I started building when I was 15 or maybe 16. I am now 20.) made some mistakes way back in the planning stage.

- A 4% grade is really intense.

- I wanted to run the big steam of the prototype (N&W) but I wasn't aware of the radius factor until after the track had been set.

- Watching trains go around in circles gets really boring really quick. Especially when the steam I like to watch has trouble making it around the outer loop.

- Plaster gets stressed under normal conditions; now try moving it around every time you want to get on the layout to work/operate.

I have started to turn this layout into a logging layout ever since I went to Cass and fell in love with the shay. I still buy N&W equipment for the day when I have my own place to build a new layout. I think I will add more operation opportunities on my next layout. I also plan to have hidden reverse loops on both ends of the layout. That way, when I want to sit back and watch/have company over I can do just that. The plaster getting stressed is really not too bad, it just needs a little maintenance every once in awhile.
Now on to the positives I have learned...

-Scratch building buildings is a blast and I plan to do a lot more of it.

- I love turning images of how it looks in my head into a 3D picture in front of me.

- There is never a "right way" to do things.

- Some ways do work better than others though. 

- This hobby has got to be the friendliest out there. Everybody is always willing to listen to problems and give advice.

This is defiantly a condensed list. I just wanted to share for those that are in a rough spot. So even if things don't seem to be working out, you are learning lessons for future projects.

So far so good... until last night. I have already built plaster mountains and basic landforms. I wanted to lay some grass in a flat area. I painted the area an earth undertone color and then sprayed scenic cement down. I sprinkled on some fine ground foam then waited 45 minutes to apply another coat of scenic cement with an eye dropper. It turned out terrible. I did a little research and found out I had to water down the cement. I did just that and tried again last night. The grass is still really dark in color and it has been 12 hours since it was glued. Am I not waiting long enough for it to dry? Why the really dark color? I have put some strong lights on it to help speed the process.

I'm guessing I just need some patience.

Thanks for your responses,
Brad

I just received my BlueLine N&W A from a transaction on Ebay. I installed a digitraxx decoder...lights come on and sound, but no movement. I can hear the motor in there but no dice. Sounds like a decoder put in the wrong way. So I flipped it around. Same result. Any suggestions? I'm going to dig up my Dc transformer to see if it runs on DC.

-Brad

Hi all,

It's been a long time since I posted and usually just ghost the board, but some things have come up.

1. I plan on ordering a Blueline N&W A class from Trainworld within the next couple of days. My question is what decoder do I need to purchase to run its sound capabilities on DCC? I have the Bachmann E-Z Command so I know my options are limited as to what I can control but I was thinking for down the road.

2. I am trying to reconstruct the Powhatan Arrow for my layout. I own a Bachmann J, which I am very pleased with. I am looking at the MTH 5 car set that will be releasing in several months (March I think). It's not entirely prototypical is it? I mean what is that divided coach about? Should I buy some passenger cars from Walthers and decal them myself? I have IHC heavyweights and am not impressed with them so I am leery about buying the streamliners from them. Opinions please.

-Brad