OK, I have been running a fairly large layout that has a double loop with no yard space to speak of. I  now think I am ready for a more complicated layout. I have been looking at the Atlas HO 36 the Oregon Pass Lines. With all that said here is my question; have any of you more experienced modelers done this layout or something similar and the book I have only shows wiring for DC. Any DCC suggestions?

Try it on DC first to make sure it works.  Then decide on how many trains you want to run at one time and how many loco's on one train.

This will tell you how 'big' a system you need and which systems to look at.

Dear tford,

If you build the layout as-is (for DC block operation), you can easily turn the isolated DC blocks into "DCC power districts", so that a derailed train shorting one district will not stop the trains running on the rest of the districts on the layout. 

Those more experienced with DCC might say you could reduce the number of districts.

It's much easier to reduce (by connecting a few wires together) than to expand, though.

Hope this helps. 

Sincerely,

Joe Satnik 

The Oregon Pass layout comes from the Atlas "Kingsize Trackplan Book" and it was!!!   Atlas later re-printed the book in a more conventional size.  The neat thing about these Atlas track plans is that Atlas went to the trouble to actually build them, so you are guaranteed that the track will fit.  If you use any other brand of track, especially turnouts and crossings, all bets are off.

As far as wiring is concerned, there are (if I remember correctly) two reverse loops and a turntable that have to be accounted for.  Before you tear down your existing layout, why don't you get a couple of turnouts and lay a diagonal track across your inner oval.  That will create a reverse loop that you can practice wiring, controlling, and running trains on.

Wiring the Oregon Pass for DCC would be pretty straight forward.  You could wire it for DC cab control as the plan suggests, but that will use a LOT of wire and other expensive electrical components that will be useless once you convert to DCC.  Personally, I'd lay out a power bus and run feeders to the track every 6 to 12 feet.  Joe is correct when he says that power districts would be helpful.  Rather than use the Atlas components (designed for common rail wiring), I'd use something like the Digitrax PM42 to create four power districts.  If you need more than four, you can use multiple PM42's.  The PM42's can handle the reverse loops, too, or you can get auto-reverse modules from any of a number of manufacturers.  Do your wiring as you go along.  That way when things stop working, you'll know that the last thing you did is where the problem is.

This is a BIG railroad.  Don't expect to start it the day after Thanksgiving and be through by Christmas.  I'd give myself a couple of years to get something this size close to being finished.  I'd also try to follow the construction sequence as it's laid out.  There is a lot of hidden trackage that HAS to be laid first.  Post some pics as you go along.  We'd all be interested in watching your progress.

One last thing.  If you are comfortable using flex track, I would suggest it.  Every section of flex track removes as many as three joints in the track, each one of which is a potential electrical and mechanical problem.  Good Luck!!!!!

Old Timer

Thanks again for all the great impute. Old Timer I will see if i can post some pics of what I have now and you guys can make suggestions on what to do. I am moving my last kid out in the summer so I will have more money, time and space for a different layout that was why I was looking at my old layout books. I may just make some big changes to what I have. Thanks again guys for all the help.
T. Ford

i have admired this layout for years. i would build and wire it pretty much as laid out in the book. btw, the edition i have does have dcc wiring. the main difference is that one of the sidings is insulated on both rails to make it serve as a programming track.

here are the modifications i would make to the wiring:

1. the atlas turntable uses a slip ring contact so that it doesn't need to be wired  to a reversing switch or autoreverser. just be very careful which polarity you wire the radial tracks. also, since the reddesigned atlas turntable is set up for radial tracks every 15 degrees instead of every 30 degrees like the one in the book, you could add a couple more tracks in this area.

2. the layout wiring shows blocks f and fs as reversing sections. you can use a deluxe under table switch motor, with contacts, to switch the polarity of these sections when switch 3 is thrown. this will save you alot of money by eliminating one of the autoreversers.

3. the atlas wiring shown for the reversing section in block a will work as shown, but if you are going to use an autoreverser anywhere on the layout this is the place.

as for feeders, i would double them up for each block, with a feeder toward each end of the block. i wouldn't worry about the comon rail wiring unless you want to use a booster to control half the layout. then you'd want to insulate both rails  at the block boundaries.