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Engine needs a push to get it going

Started by jpl2817, October 14, 2012, 12:34:48 PM

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jpl2817

I have a new davenport.  Sometimes I have noticed more, the engine needs a push to get it going and once it goes it seems ok, perhaps a little slow, like something dragging or maybe an electrical problem,  the 3 cars all roll fine, just the engine has a problem.

Loco Bill Canelos

Which power pack are you using?  The one you got on Ebay, or the replacement sent By Bachmann?

Have you tried both power packs? Does the loco act the same using either power pack?

Let us know what you find, and also what brand power pack you got on Ebay?

Need these bits of info to isolate your problem and make suggestions to help you!

Loco Bill,  Roundhouse Foreman
Colorado & Kansas Railway-Missouri Western Railway
Official Historian; Bachmann Large Scale
Retired Colorado RR Museum-Brakeman-Engineer-Motorman-Trainman
There are no dumb or stupid questions, just questions!

jpl2817

I had been using the Ebay item, it was brand new the brand name is Bachmann model 6607 , it is a transformer/controller assembly.  The controller I received from Bachmann uses the separate power pack.   At first I thought because the engine was new, maybe its breaking in.

But now it appears that it does it more often than before.   I can switch out the controllers for testing and noticed the newer Bachmann controller runs the train slower than the 6607 controller.  But the train just doesn't seem to have good speed with either one.

I suppose if it gets worse I will send the engine in for repair. I submitted a service request last night to Bachmann. Thanks for your help.

Loco Bill Canelos

Since the problem occurs using both power supplies, make sure your track and the loco wheels are very clean.  The track in the sets being steel gets oxidized rather easily and this is transferred to the loco wheels.

At least try a deep cleaning, before going through the trouble of sending it in.   

Many locos sent in are really not in need of repair, just a good wheel cleaning!

Loco Bill,  Roundhouse Foreman
Colorado & Kansas Railway-Missouri Western Railway
Official Historian; Bachmann Large Scale
Retired Colorado RR Museum-Brakeman-Engineer-Motorman-Trainman
There are no dumb or stupid questions, just questions!

jpl2817

okay. I will give that a try,  the track is brand new, but its possible there is oxidation or some other contaminant on the track.  I think perhaps this set was stored for a while, due to the place I purchased it said it was the last in inventory and would not be getting another.
Have a great day.

richg

I and many others over the years have found out that track that "Looks Clean" is not always really clean. Sometimes, this can apply to the loco and pickups if the loco has been stored for a while.

Do the cleaning first and then you can usually say clean.

Rich

SteveWard3928

I had the same problem earlier this year.  Turned out my joiners were so corroded I was lucky the engine moved at all.  I took the track apart cleaned the rails and the joiners and put it all back together.  Took me 3 days and the joiners that were terrible I replaced.  The best replacement you can get are the rail clamps.  From what I hear they rarely if ever fail.  More expensive...yes but you will not have to worry about the joiners ever again.  Buy a bag of 10 every so often if money is a concern.  A pack of 10 rail clamps on E-Bay are in the $16 range.  I dipped the joiners in CLR for a minute and then rinsed.  Do not put any chemicals on the track itself clean with fine sandpaper. It helps if you buy a sanding pole so you can clean the track in a standing position instead of bending over all the time. Sanding poles on E-Bay go for $5-$15.   As for the locomotive wheels....I use Q-tips dipped in the equivalent of paint thinner and run the Q-tips along the wheel to take off any oxidation.
S&S

Gonna get blamed for it...you might as well do it!!

jpl2817

Thanks for the info.  The track looks very new.  I will just keep giving it a push to get it started. I always stop it and start it in same location so not a big deal.  It may sit for a day before I start it again.  I have stopped it in a different location and then tried it a few hours later and still needs a push.  but once it gets going its fine.

jpl2817

Hello,  I have been using my train every couple of days for about 30 minutes each time.  The train still needs a push at times, if I stop it to reverse or to go forward sometimes I have to push it.  The track is clean,brand new.

Also the smoke does not work.   I have tried the switch under the canopy and has no effect.

I submitted a request for repair around Oct 20th. I have not had a response yet.

I decided tonight to look a little further into the engine.  I know the track is getting the proper voltage , 16 volts.

I removed the canopy, and the connectors, removed the 4 screws holding the small circuit board and then removed the circuit board. 

Then I found the problem. Green corrosion on most of the solder joints under the board.
I have been a mechanic for 25 years and know what moisture can do to circuit boards,solder joints,etc.

Somehow this engine has gotten moisture in it.  The kit was new I thought, it looks brand new.

Any way I  am sure a new circuit board will fix my problem.  I put it back together and will continue to use it.
I emailed Jenny and hopefully they can send me a new circuit board for the davenport.


jpl2817

just got the new PCB.  it also is covered with corrosion.  what do I do???? I don't think installing this PCB will help.

Dave

Why dont you try connecting the pick up wires directly to the motor wires. After all, the PCB is only there in case you want to install some fancy DCC or the like. I did that to my 2Truck Shay and it hasnt been a problem at all. Just an idea.

               Dave
               New Zealand

jpl2817

that's a good idea.  but I don't want to void any warranty.  I would eventually like to install a sound and a speaker.

Ken G Price

But did you clean the wheels and the track? Not just looked at them and they looked clean so you did nothing.
You still need to do this no matter what else you do. Looking clean is not the same as clean.
And if you did then ignore this post.
Ken G Price N-Scale out west. 1995-1996 or so! UP, SP, MoPac.
Pictures Of My Layout, http://s567.photobucket.com/albums/ss115/kengprice/

jpl2817

yes wheels are clean.  the problem is with the PCB under the canopy. it is covered with corrosion,green chalky substance, looks like from moisture.

Bachmann sent a new PCB today i received it, it too has corrosive damage, not as bad.  I have pictures but its a no brainer for me.  I work with PCB's all the time on cars,trucks.  This is moisture,water damage on both boards.

Joe Satnik

Dear jpl2817,

Clean your track with rubbing alcohol and a rag or paper towel. 

Let us know how black your rag gets. 

2 man operation:  Put the loco upside down in a padded cradle, apply power to the 2 rear wheels and clean the front 2 spinning wheels with alcohol and a rag.  In the same manner, apply power to the front wheels and clean the rear wheels.

If your loco still gives you problems on the track, run your loco until it "sticks", then measure the voltage 1. At the power pack, and 2. Between  one left and one right wheel.  Let us know your measurements. 

Sincerely,

Joe Satnik   

 
If your loco is too heavy to lift, you'd better be able to ride in, on or behind it.