I started this hobby about 1 1/2 years ago and my first train was the Chattanooga 0-6-0 steam DC set. Since then I've gone all DCC with my locos (yes, they are Bachmann, and I'm using an E-Z Command). I also added a Bachmann DCC decoder (E-Z Command, two function; pretty low profile) to a Trainline FA-1 which went smoothly. Now I'm looking at the 0-6-0 and wondering if I might put the same Bachmann decoder in it. Is that feasible? The body of the loco looks a little difficult to remove so I'd like to know if it's worth it before tearing into things. If it is possible to do this I'd also appreciate advice on removing the shell with the least amount of damage.

Check Jonathan's thread on his fleet of 0-6-0's.

Rich

the fact that you can purchase dcc versions of this locomotive shows it can be done. checque the decoder manufacturers and dealers websites for conversion info on various locomotives. i haven't had time to look but this one may be on there. i have two of them to convert myself but haven't had the time. when i do i will try to take pics and post them here.

Quote from: richg on February 02, 2013, 06:11:08 PM
Check Jonathan's thread on his fleet of 0-6-0's.

Rich

How do I do that?

Well, I did a search for Jonathan and 0-6-0 and saw some of what you're talking about, Rich. So I'm definitely convinced of feasability. Jward- I didn't know the 0-6-0s also came DCC since I have gone the way of diesels after that first starter set. Maybe this will get me to thinking aabout steam some more. Thanks to everyone for their input.

Skook-

It's generally easier to convert steam than diesel because you have a whole empty tender for the decoder and speaker if any. Diesels can be pretty tight under the hood, so much so that sometimes it's necessary to grind away part of the frame to make room for a decoder. And diesel speakers can be the devil's own work.

                                                                      -- D

http://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/board/index.php/topic,19869.0.html

the dc version lists for $96, the dcc for $125.

Ok, I finally figured out you are talking about the 0-6-0T. My mistake.
Some here have asked about the 0-6-0 with the tender and smoke.
Remove the front screw and carefully lift off the shell. I have done it. Follow the instructions on the diagram that come with the loco.
Solder the wires to the tabs. A oood quality tiny decoder for this loco will cost about $20.00. I like the DZ125 decoder.

Rich

Quote from: Doneldon on February 02, 2013, 09:53:25 PM
Skook-

It's generally easier to convert steam than diesel because you have a whole empty tender for the decoder and speaker if any. Diesels can be pretty tight under the hood, so much so that sometimes it's necessary to grind away part of the frame to make room for a decoder. And diesel speakers can be the devil's own work.

                                                                      -- D

Using the tender for decoder and/or speaker is a good idea that I will stow away for future projects. Doesn't this present the problem of disguising wires running between loco and tender?

Quote from: jward on February 03, 2013, 02:51:31 PM
the dc version lists for $96, the dcc for $125.

I got the whole Chattanooga set on Amazon for $109. Quite a deal, I thought, since I also wound up with rolling stock, control, track, signal bridge, station, phone poles, people, etc. I'm still using the DC control for accessory lights and so on. So I don't mind spending a little on the DCC conversion. Of course, now Doneldon has me pondering sound which is getting a little pricier 

Quote from: richg on February 03, 2013, 03:06:24 PM
Ok, I finally figured out you are talking about the 0-6-0T. My mistake.
Some here have asked about the 0-6-0 with the tender and smoke.
Remove the front screw and carefully lift off the shell. I have done it. Follow the instructions on the diagram that come with the loco.
Solder the wires to the tabs. A oood quality tiny decoder for this loco will cost about $20.00. I like the DZ125 decoder.

Rich

Actually, mine is the one with tender and smoke. Thanks for the heads up on the decoder.

Quote from: skooksteve on February 03, 2013, 03:32:16 PM

Quote from: richg on February 03, 2013, 03:06:24 PM
Ok, I finally figured out you are talking about the 0-6-0T. My mistake.
Some here have asked about the 0-6-0 with the tender and smoke.
Remove the front screw and carefully lift off the shell. I have done it. Follow the instructions on the diagram that come with the loco.
Solder the wires to the tabs. A oood quality tiny decoder for this loco will cost about $20.00. I like the DZ125 decoder.

Rich

Actually, mine is the one with tender and smoke. Thanks for the heads up on the decoder.

Oh boy. Try to be more specific in the future with a question. I deleted all what I thought was unnecessary info.

Rich

Quote from: skooksteve on February 03, 2013, 03:17:57 PM

Quote from: Doneldon on February 02, 2013, 09:53:25 PM
Skook-

It's generally easier to convert steam than diesel because you have a whole empty tender for the decoder and speaker if any. Diesels can be pretty tight under the hood, so much so that sometimes it's necessary to grind away part of the frame to make room for a decoder. And diesel speakers can be the devil's own work.

                                                                      -- D

Using the tender for decoder and/or speaker is a good idea that I will stow away for future projects. Doesn't this present the problem of disguising wires running between loco and tender?

Many DCC suppliers sell six wire tiny plugs for this. Dress the wires to look like hoses.

Rich

Cheap acceptable sound will be about $50.00. More expensive $100 to $150 for decoder and speaker depending on where you buy from.  
You will have to convert the tender to all metal wheels with pickups on each truck. Forget trying to include smoke.
I gave away to of those locos a couple years ago. The locos had rather poor driver pickups.
I kept a couple of the oil tenders and converted one to sound to make a cab forward, oil fired 2-6-0.

Rich