News:

Please read the Forum Code of Conduct   >>Click Here <<

Main Menu

forney couplings

Started by yeorail, August 04, 2014, 07:23:52 AM

Previous topic - Next topic

yeorail

 How do I match up the Forney's couplers with standard  Bachmann large scale cars??

Loco Bill Canelos

Yeorail,

Your forney comes with two set of couplers, look in the box for a second set. Install them and they will match the Standard line cars couplers.

Bill
Loco Bill,  Roundhouse Foreman
Colorado & Kansas Railway-Missouri Western Railway
Official Historian; Bachmann Large Scale
Colorado RR Museum-Brakeman-Engineer-Motorman-Trainman
There are no dumb or stupid questions, just questions!

yeorail

Thanks but looking at the body fixing it seems to  the coupler even higher or am I looking at the wrong piece? My fleet of five trains are all Bachmann LSand only the Forney loses it's trains - they slip out underneath of it's coupler pocket.
yeorail

Chuck N

I do not have the Forney, but looking at the picture of it in the Bachmann catalogue, both front and rear couplers have a stepup shank.  It also looks as if they are different from each other.  Check the picture and see if y.our couplers are similar.

Chuck

Loco Bill Canelos

Yeorail,

Did you find both sets of couplers?  The couplers installed at the factory are usually the ones for the 1:20.3 rolling stock.  To work with the standard line cars, the buyer must install the other set of couplers provided in the box.   Did you change the couplers? If so confirm you are using the correct set to couple to the standard line cars.  If you are using the correct set, then the problem may be with the installation, or possibly be a defective coupler, hard to help with the info available so far but we will try.

Hope this helps.

Bill

Loco Bill,  Roundhouse Foreman
Colorado & Kansas Railway-Missouri Western Railway
Official Historian; Bachmann Large Scale
Colorado RR Museum-Brakeman-Engineer-Motorman-Trainman
There are no dumb or stupid questions, just questions!

yeorail

Thanks again Bill
I have the dropped shank couplers fitted and the instruction sheet shows only a body mounted version which fails on 2 counts 1) too rigid for my min 5foot curves & 2) too high,the original problem made worse. Should there be another version not in a UK box? or do I have another choice in fitting the black coupling to the dropped shank bar? Many thanks
Yeorail

Loco Bill Canelos

Sorry I could not help, I am not aware of any differences in boxes sent to the UK.  Not sure about the black coupler and fitting it but it would seem worth a try.

Can any of the Forney owners out there help Yeorail???
Loco Bill,  Roundhouse Foreman
Colorado & Kansas Railway-Missouri Western Railway
Official Historian; Bachmann Large Scale
Colorado RR Museum-Brakeman-Engineer-Motorman-Trainman
There are no dumb or stupid questions, just questions!

yeorail

Hi Bill
I looked at the catalogue, as suggested, and wondered if it is possible to reverse the dropped shank coupling mounting bar and put the coupler on top thus lowering the hookand maintaining the flexibility to negotiate the cursed 5ft curve I have to endure on one part of the line.
Yeorail

Chuck N

#8
It will not work, turning the coupler upside down.  It will then open in the same direction as the car's coupler.  They will not mate.

Chuck

Kadee makes a step up coupler #831.  You might try that.

Can you post a picture of the couplers that you have?

ricnpat

Not real sure what the issue is.
I just changed out a set of these a couple days ago for a friend.
He brought his height gauge for his 1:22 stock over and it took about 10 minutes
to change them out after looking at the line drawings supplied with the model.
Threw the leftover parts in the box and checked the engine on rail with his height
gauge and everything was fine.

Pretty straight forward change out to match the 1:22 standard.
Rick

yeorail

Hi folks
Thanks for the advice - the black couplings are fitted to the cranked shaft but alas the couplers mate only with the top half or third of the car couplers depending with the ride height of the car or coach. That is the best I can get which isn't very good as any ground variation still causes a runaway train!
Yeorail

yeorail

Hi Bill et al
Well I venturer to my attic to seek out the box - there is no mention in the instructions nor had I worked out from your messages that the coupling heads come off and are interchangable!!!I had been working on  the instructions which give two systems  body or bogie mounted nothing else and with my eyesight I'd missed the screw flush fitted behind the head. Now I 've changed the heads I have 100% success - thanks everyone
yeorail

Chuck N

Do you have any cars where you could mount a coupler on a truck (similar to the system used by LGB),  or can you mount one step down coupler at one end of a car?  Either of those options should mate with the lower coupler on the engine.  You would always have to have that car right behind the engine, but it would work.

This is called an idler car.  The D&RGW used them on trains between Alamosa and Antonito, when a train had narrow gauge and standard gauge cars in the same train.

I have a battery car that always has to be the first car in a train being pulled by my engines that are set up for battery and RC.

Chuck

Chuck N

Glad you had success.  Your post went in while I was typing mine.

Chuck

yeorail

Hi Chuck
Thanks again we wagons like the one you describe we call them translator wagons on british rail used mainly for hauling underground stock. I made one to haul a few Aristocraft cars but changed the couplers in the end
yeorail