My son received this train for his birthday and the wheels will not stay on the track when going on the curves even at the slowest speed possible. How do we fix the problem. We are using the track that came with the train set.

First off, what part is coming off the tracks? is it the front wheels, drive wheels etc.? Also how old is  the set? I think by the sound of it is that the track is on wrong. Try this. put the track together and run the tips of your fingers over both sides of track. If you feel a bump, then you would have to re do that part until it is on right. Do this all the way around.... is this your set? http://www.hobbylinc.com/htm/bac/bac00614.htm It is E-Z track and that is the method I use on my layout when this happens. It is simple and easy. Hope this helps.

The first thing that comes to mind is a track problem.  There are several possibilities.  Here are two common ones:

1.  Uneven rail joints.  Run your finger over the rails where two pieces of track join.  If you feel a bump, the track is not put together properly.  The rail joiners (the silver rail "extensions") must slide onto the adjoining rail, not under it.  

2.  Kinks.  Make sure that the track is not kinked (bent sharply at a joint) on curves.  I know this sounds self-evident, but you must have the same number of curved sections in each end of the oval.

Hope this helps.  Write back if you're still having a problem.

Rusty

Thanks for your suggestions. We tried both and the train still comes off the track at the curve. It is new, started coming off the track the very first time we tried to run it. It is the back wheels of the engine and the back wheels of the coal tender that come off when going around the curve. Speed doesn't matter, he can have the train going 40, 20 or even 60 and it still happens.

Without seeing what is happening, please understand that I'm just guessing.  Having said that, I think that you need a broader radius curve.  The set came with 18" radius track and this is a BIG locomotive.  This is one reason to buy from you local hobby shop.  The folks who work there can tell you about known problems and fixes.  I think you have two or three choices at this point.

1.  Take it back to where it came from.  You didn't say if you bought it, so returning it might be a little difficult.
2.  Buy some larger radius EZ Track.  The locomotive you have is a BIG engine and you're trying to run it on small radius track.  I wouldn't try to run an engine this size on curves smaller than 24" radius.
3.  Bachmann has a life-time guarantee on its engines, so you could return it for repair.  It is possible that some part of the running gear is sticking as the locomotive enters a curve.  The fact that the rear wheels of the tender are derailing might indicate that the tender can't pivot as it should.

I'm sorry you're having this problem.    Hope this helps some.
Rusty

It's possible that justmom's set may have 22"R curves. 

If you have 16 total curve sections, they're 22" radius.  (See "Products" section of this website.)

If you have 12 total curve sections, they're 18" radius. (As seen in 2001 Bachmann catalog.)

Sincerely,

Joe Satnik

I am with Rusty, it is hard to tell without see.  I just wonder if it might be a drawbar problem.  Holding the back of the locomotive up as pushes down on the front of the tender and lifts the back of the tender up. 

I just re-read this thread and I want to assure justmom that when I said, "You didn't say if you bought it, so returning it might be a little difficult." I did NOT mean to imply that you might have acqquired it other than honestly.  sheesh.  What I meant was that if you didn't buy it for your son, then the person who did would have the receipt that you'd probably need to return the train.

Please excuse my senior moment.       

Rusty

The Overland Limited ships with 22" radius track .

I have this exact "UP" Bachmann engine.  I ended having to send it to service, in which they sent a replacement.
Do a surch on this site.  There is a LOT of earlier posts on this unit....

Hotrainlover,

I just sent this same loco to Bachmann for repair or replacement also.
What replacement loco did you get from them?

Clif

I was able to get the same type unit back.  It was just a different one.  I always "Brand" my Locos, since they are also used at a local Club.      This one was a new one.

HOTRAINLOVER,

Thanks for the quick reply.  I'm guessing that your replacement is now a good runner.  How long did it take to get it back from Bachmann?  They told me five weeks turnaround.

Clif

It was not really long.  About 5 weeks or so.  Hard to remember!!

I purchased the Overland Limited set for my step-grandson in Russia for this past Christmas. I immediately noticed he was too young for the unit, so I kept it until he comes later this summer. I initially noticed the problem with it derailing on curves. After a few adjustments I never experienced the problem again. However, I have little doubt the engine needs at least 22 degree and perferably 24 degree curves. 
      The train comes with a 63 by 54 inch oval, with 22 degree curves, which is too big for a 4 x 8. I have decided to switch to the nickel -silver track. I was going to get the "Your First Railroad Track Pack," however it only comes with the 18 degree curves. I want to go with the 22 or 24 degree curves. To be able to keep the same track design as shown in the package how many 22 or 24 degree curves will I need? The package comes with twenty 18 degree curves. What size layout will this make? I would also like to know the differences between the #5. #6, and #7 switches?