Connie shortfalls.

[Mark Damien]

G'Day all,

My local Hobby Shop has an outside frame 2-8-0 on special.

I was wondering if there were any common problems with these locos, or are they generally reliable?

My outdoor mainline is a little under 100' long & the locos only get a couple of hours running time a month, at most.
I think I'll have to build a spur & shed, to reduce the setup times.

[Kevin Strong]

Just beware of loose screws. Some have reported the motor screws are a bit loose as it comes from the factory, causing the worm gear to not mesh with the drive gear well. The three I've had come across my workbench were all snug, but just know that's there. Also, the screws that hold the counterweights onto the axles need to be periodically tightened in order to keep the counterweights from jamming against the valve gear. I give mine a once over every season, and it seems to do okay.

Beyond that, mine's been a great runner. My trains average around 6 cars, maybe 8 on a heavy freight day, with 2% grades, so I'm not overburdening the gears.

Later,

K

[Mark Damien]

Just beware of loose screws. Some have reported the motor screws are a bit loose and the screws that hold the counterweights onto the axles need to be periodically tightened
Later,

K

Thanks Kevin, that's good news.
In your opinion, would a little silastic or loc-tite solve the problem or is it better to just check them?

I was thinking or extending to the area beside my house, but that would involve nearly 100' of 4% grade to join the two - Is that too much for these locos. I don't want to burn out motors or strip gears.

Cheers.
Mark

[Barry BBT]

Mark (and Kevin),

The other vulnerable area is the driven gear on the axle.  It is too light and held in place on the axle with serrations on the axle.  These gears are failing at a greater and greater rate.

I have developed a motor and gearbox replacement which has proven (in a year and one-half) in testing to be a superb replacement for the motor and gearbox delivered in the original package.

If interested, please send me an email: barrysbigtrains@earthlink.met

Barry - BBT

[StanAmes]

The Connie's are a relatively older mechanical design but still a great locomotive. We have 6 on our railroad and use the locomotive for mid distance runs that require a lot of switching.  We like the locomotive a lot.

The biggest shortcomings that users have reported on a variety of forums are a relatively small motor, the gear on the main axle and the screws holding the counterweights.  There are simple solutions to all three should you ever encounter a problem.

As Kevin has pointed out a little locktight on the screws holding the counterweights is a good idea and the newer locomotives have this from the factory. If the main gear fails you can get a new drive wheel with the gear installed for about $20 from Bachmann or you can get a new metal replacement gear from Northwest Shortline for about $12.  The only main gear I had fail to date was my most recent purchase which failed in the first few hours of operation.

New motors with a little more power can be purchased on EBAY if they ever fail.

As Barry has mentioned he has a new motor/ gear box for the locomotive which is an excellent high end addition.

I think you will enjoy the locomotive.

Stan Ames

[Kevin Strong]

In your opinion, would a little silastic or loc-tite solve the problem or is it better to just check them?

I was thinking or extending to the area beside my house, but that would involve nearly 100' of 4% grade to join the two - Is that too much for these locos. I don't want to burn out motors or strip gears.

Loc-tite would help, but I just go through with a screwdriver once every so often. Consider it part of the joys of owning a mechanical contraption. I also oil the bearings at the same time, and brush off the year's worth of dust and stuff that's accumulated, hiding my weathering. (I worked too hard on putting dust exactly where I want it to have dust settle down where I don't. )

As for the grade, I'd just be careful of the length of train you're pulling. A prototype loco of this size (former Georgetown Loop #40) was good for 6 loaded cars up the 4% grade. I would think you'd be fine with that, provided the cars are free-rolling. Something like Accucraft's passenger cars, whose electrical contacts are so stiff as to hold the car in place on a 4% grade would probably equal two or three free-rolling cars. Dad just put his 2-8-0 in service on his railroad this summer, which is full of 4% grades. I haven't heard of any issues as yet, but I'm not sure how many miles the loco's logged.

Later,

K

[Mark Damien]

...at the same time, and brush off the year's worth of dust and stuff that's accumulated, hiding my weathering. (I worked too hard on putting dust exactly where I want it to have dust settle down where I don't. )

Later,
K

Thanks for the info Kevin.
& I know what you mean about all that natural weathering - It really ruins the fake one something awful.
Although my H0 layout has a nice patina of natural weathering - just can't touch anything for fear of rubbing it off.
============================================

The Connie's are a relatively older mechanical design .............. a relatively small motor, the gear on the main axle and the screws holding the counterweights.  There are simple solutions to all three should you ever encounter a problem.

I think you will enjoy the locomotive.
Stan Ames

I'll keep that in mind Stan, Thanks.
I always wanted a connie - the counterweights , valvegear & connecting rods  are really great to watch.
================================================

Mark (and Kevin),

The other vulnerable area is the driven gear on the axle.....  I have developed a motor and gearbox replacement
Barry - BBT

Barry.....wow, I can build track, fix watches & dabbled in micro electronics, but cannot put a gear on an axle - the main reason I gave up slot car racing so many years ago. So, should my connie suffer the slightest pang in that area, you'll be the first to know.
==========================================

Well the LHS is holding my new baby 'til I pick it up on the weekend.
I better get out this afternoon & relay the track for the big test run.

Thankyou all for being so helpful. I really appreciate all the tips.

Cheers.
Mark

[jsmvmd]

Dear Mark,

Now all you have to do is make a battery car and go R/C !   

Best Wishes,

Jack Majcher
Altoona, PA

[Kevin Strong]

Now all you have to do is make a battery car and go R/C !   

No need for a battery car. Plenty of room (and then some) in the tender.

Later,

K

[Loco Bill]

Definitely no need for a battery car,  I, and others get an RC receiver, soumd system, batteries for the sound system and batteries for power all in the Connie tender.   

My two Connies are great runners, I have had them for years and they have been very reliable!

[jsmvmd]

Dear Friends,

I stand (actually I am sitting) corrected !   

Best Wishes,

Jack

[bigreds]

HI does anuone have the  part number for the Northwest Shortline gear.
Thanks
Martin

[Mark Damien]

Well, I've been having a lot of fun with my new Connie. What a superb runner. I've been checking the wheelnuts frequently but none have come loose yet. I'll have to get around to applying some loctite soon though.

I was so happy with the 2-8-0, I ordered a Brand spanking new Spectrum 2-6-0 in Yellow Pine livery, but when it arrived, the motor spins & makes clicking noise & goes nowhere. Oh well, one out of two ain't bad... what am I saying!!!
So now I'll have to start pulling it down, to find out whats wrong.
Is there a supa-dupa gearbox replacement for these?

I ordered a box car with intentions of  carry a Battery for RC. I can only run one loco at a time anyway, so fitting all of them with separate equipment seems a waste, in my situation.

Whats the best type of RC controller for a simple layout & battery boxcar setup?

[az2rail]

Go back to the top of this tread, and read Berry BBT's reply. He makes a up graded replacement motor and gear box.

As for R/C goes, you will get different views. Depending on what system people use, they will say the one they use is the best. But look into the Airwire and Aristo-craft systems, they make some good ones. No need for a battery car anymore though, batteries will now fit into the tender.

Bruce

[StanAmes]

HI does anuone have the  part number for the Northwest Shortline gear.
Thanks
Martin

http://www.nwsl.com/pdf%20prod%20list/pdf%20prod11.htm
2226-6 12.95 #1 Fn3 Bachmann 2-8-0 axle gear 25T SGd x 15.8mm OD x .250" ID

Should a gear fail (I have six 2-8-0s and only the newest locomotive has had a main gear fail) you can get a replacement wheel with gear from Bachmann or replace the gear with a NWSL gear.  Its a simple replacement.

Stan