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| | |-+  Re-lettering a locomotive and tender
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Author Topic: Re-lettering a locomotive and tender  (Read 8953 times)
ebtnut

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« Reply #15 on: May 02, 2012, 03:49:33 PM »

No. 4501 was my introduction to the modern main line steam excursion era.  I rode behind her on her first visit to Washington, DC (fall of '64, I believe).  Somewhere I still have some slides from that time.  She was still around when I got out of the Navy in 1971, and I worked the trips with the local NRHS chapter out of Alexandria, VA.  Even got a brief cab ride once.  No. 630 and sister 722 also visited here (along with all of the SR steam stable at one time or another).  Hopefully, we will see 4501 here again as NS ramps up the new program. 
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glennk28

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« Reply #16 on: May 02, 2012, 07:10:41 PM »

I have done pro painting and decaling for many years.  Champ always had some of the best decals.  I do not get along wqith dry transfers and only use tghem as a last resort--sometimes applying them to decal paper and making water-slide type from them. 

The yellow lettering on the loco in ypour pix is  called "Dulux Gold" by DuPont.  It is a yellow gold.  "Bronze Gold"  refers to the metallic gold color. 

wet decals need a glossy surface.  I like the Micro Scale system--follow Micro Scale's instructions--gloss finish, blue label solution, let dry, then red solution, gloss, then flat or satin finish.  gj
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J3a-614

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« Reply #17 on: May 02, 2012, 07:42:25 PM »

"Wet decals need a glossy surface.  I like the Micro Scale system--follow Micro Scale's instructions--gloss finish, blue label solution, let dry, then red solution, gloss, then flat or satin finish."--Glen K

I would second this advice, and can tell you why.

The decal is on a film, and that film is (a) glossy in itself, and (b) will snuggle down better on a glossy surface.  The reason for this is that a "flat finish" surface is rough, with a lot of little peaks, valleys, and holes.  Some of these are almost microscopic in size, but they are deep enough, and the decal film is thick and stiff enough (not to you when handling it, but to those little peaks an low areas), that the film can't settle down into all those little low spots.  The result is a bunch of little bubbles under the decal, which will be visible as a frosted look.  A glossy surface doesn't have all those low spots, so the decal can lay flat on it.

Even with a glossy finish, you can still have things that cause white spots on the decal, such as where the film might form a "tent" over a rivet.  That's where those decal setting solutions come in, softening the film even more so it can snuggle down around the rivets and other raised details.

After you've got the decals down and dry--and don't move the model until they are dry--it's a good idea to shoot the thing with some more gloss finish to seal the decal and get a consistent surface finish.  After that, some flat or satin finish will cut the shine down to something more typical of railroad equipment.

I can personally say that with care, the decals can look painted on.

My only warning it to be careful if you are using clear finishes out of a spray can.  The combination of expanding propellant and moisture in the air can cause the finish to condense some of the moisture into the clear coating, and give you a milky finish.  I've had it work out to make a black car roof look like it was weathered, but it wasn't what I wanted it to do at the time, and it's certainly not what I wanted it to do on the sides of the car!
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J3a-614

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« Reply #18 on: May 02, 2012, 07:55:39 PM »

While on the subject of Southern Railway steam, we have some more on the overhaul of the 4501, courtesy of a discussion on Railway Preservation News:

http://www.rypn.org/forums/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=33024

http://www.rypn.org/forums/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=33217

Have fun.

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rogertra


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« Reply #19 on: May 04, 2012, 07:27:29 PM »


My only warning it to be careful if you are using clear finishes out of a spray can.  The combination of expanding propellant and moisture in the air can cause the finish to condense some of the moisture into the clear coating, and give you a milky finish.  I've had it work out to make a black car roof look like it was weathered, but it wasn't what I wanted it to do at the time, and it's certainly not what I wanted it to do on the sides of the car!

The solution to this is quite simple, spray again and the milkiness will disappear.  Smiley

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napa15

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« Reply #20 on: May 07, 2012, 08:57:51 AM »

I've ordered some of the Champ decals from eBay. Hopefully they'll be here in a few days. Gonna start removing the current decals today or tomorrow. Always nervous about doing something for the very first time. Undecided
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J3a-614

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« Reply #21 on: May 08, 2012, 07:18:42 PM »

While you're waiting for the decals, and for while you're waiting for them to dry, here's something to while away the time:

http://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/board/index.php/topic,20132.0.html

This is in the list above, and I think you'll find it interesting enough to have special attention:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XoR7mcsVxtU&feature=results_main&playnext=1&list=PLB37E1F027F216C4D

This should help with some of the waiting, in the meantime, as per Jonathan:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PDJ_Mz8ftqI
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napa15

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« Reply #22 on: June 02, 2012, 05:15:26 PM »

Her is an update of my (first) re-lettering project. I don't have any proper weathering products at the moment, so that will come later. Once I found the proper Champs decals I needed, they were partial, used sets. So, there are a few decals missing from the loco right now. For instance, the "Southern" from one side of the cab, and the "630" from the same side of the Tender. I will hunt the same set of deals down and complete the job.

The decals were not a perfect match, and in some places I had to improvise with some lettering.. but I got as close as I could. Turned out pretty good if you compare with the original pics on the first page in this post.

There are some other exact details between the Bachmann engine and the actual engine that I need to correct, like the bell placement, ditch lights (correct name?) and some other stuff like that. Will be attending to those details as I go.

Please give me your thoughts.. I know it isn't perfect. But hey, I'm a rookie, Smiley

Here is a link to my page of photo's - which shows progress, from original HO logo==co to how she looks now:

https://picasaweb.google.com/102700810654735985344/Southern630HOTrainCustom

But here are a few to see here:







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J3a-614

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« Reply #23 on: June 02, 2012, 11:28:06 PM »

"Please give me your thoughts.. I know it isn't perfect. But hey, I'm a rookie,"

I think you're doing fine; it's only too bad you wound up with partial sets!  !!@#$%^&***@@!!!!

Hope you found the work easy, if a bit time consuming.  That's really the secret of things like this--give yourself the gifts of patience and time. 

Atlas Tool Company actually says this in the instructions for some of their structure kits, like the station model that's been around for 50 years or more.  The instructions actually tell you, "Take your time and get your money's worth."  And that is so, so true. . .

Again, congratulations on learning this new skill, and doing so well on the first try.
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napa15

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« Reply #24 on: June 03, 2012, 11:08:13 AM »

I appreciate your comments - and suggestions. Very good suggestion. I am an artist by trade, who's turned into a professional Graphic Designer and Video Producer/Editor.. so I understand the concept of patience, and can see how that trait must transfer over to this hobby if you're going to truly enjoy it. And the simple process of re-lettering a locomotive takes a lot more patience than one could imagine going into it the first time.. ESPECIALLY the smallest decals on the front headlight number boards. Good night.  Shocked

Looking forward to getting some more decal sets in to complete the task, the final details parts and then get it weathered up nice.
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