EZ Track layout and expansion, opinions wanted

[jbrock27]

Progress is being made, looking good!

Spectrum controller?

[janedoedad]

It is getting there.

Yes, that is a Spectrum.  Will be replaced by DCC System in a few months.  I have some other powerpacks to run lighting, switches and so on.

[jward]

Excellent idea jdd! Did you buy the Silver Series models?

Jeff, is that the same as saying you agree with me?!?

of course, when you're right. 

[jbrock27]

LOL jw! I like it much better when that happens my Scottish brother

jdd, when you transition to DCC, do you intend on still using the steel track?

[janedoedad]

jdd, when you transition to DCC, do you intend on still using the steel track?

Probably. Until it becomes too much of a hassle to maintain.  Will have to see how it works out. 

Using wired joiners, the plan is to have power about every 5-6 feet.  Hopefully this will compensate for any power issues.   Might wire the whole thing in blocks,  Going to stick with non-DCC turnouts for now.

[jward]

some of us prefer the old analog way of controlling switch motors.  you can run dcc without using it to control accessories. and save yourself a ton of money in the process.

block control is  compatible with dcc. in fact I wired my layout for block control even though it was never intended  for dc control for the reason that being able to isolate tracks allows me to continue to run the layout in the event of a short circuit somewhere on the layout, by isolating that section. it also lessens power draw on the command station. that will be especially important if you are trying to use a low powered dcc system like the basic ez command unit. of course, block control with dcc flies in the face of the conventional wisdom the magazines push. but it's really not hard to do.

as for the z scale decoder, they may be tiny, but the wiring is the same size as an ho one. my eyesight isn't the greatest, and while I'd never built a z scale layout I have found z ecale decoders useful for tight situations such as the 0-6-0 ofr Thomas the tank engine.

[Joe Satnik]

JDD,

Run a lot of various operations on your layout to proof it out before ballasting.

You glued down your risers before I could comment on the two "S" curves hiding in the design. 

Your upper turnout with "immediate turn back to parallel" is a pure "S" curve with no straight 

length between opposing curves.

Your yard entrance curves to the right, goes straight for 4-1/2" plus 1-1/2" (turnout offset), then curves left. 

With cars shorter than 6" you could probably live with that.  Longer cars may start to give you trouble.

Hope this helps.

Sincerely,

Joe Satnik

[Doneldon]

Using wired joiners, the plan is to have power about every 5-6 feet.  Hopefully this will compensate for any power issues.

JDD-
The issues with steel alloy track are many. One is that steel alloy isn't as good at conducting electricity as are brass or nickel/silver. The main one has to do with rail maintenance.

Most rails need cleaning because of crud build up. Steel alloy has that problem plus it rusts. And rust is a truly lousy conductor. What's worse is that rust doesn't come off with standard cleaning; it has to be physically removed. That means abrasives. Those abrasives remove part of the rail as well as leaving minute scratches which will then hold crud on the rails. For these reasons, I strongly urge you to use Wahl clipper oil, Conductalube or another conductive coating on the tops and inside surfaces of your railheads. That will hold off the corrosion and even the crud accumulation, at least a little.
                                                                                                                                                                                 -- D

[janedoedad]

I know about the S-Curves.   May add a 4.5" piece to straighten the upper siding out.  Not a big deal to move the risers.  That little section is pretty much there for the excursion train, an 0-6-0 with 1 or 2 older type passenger cars and caboose. 

The yard entrance stays as is for now.  If it becomes a problem, it can always be changed.   Plan on staying with cars that are 50 scale feet or less, I understand longer (70' or more) cars have issues with 18" curves. 

Track maintenance is going to be interesting.  Here in Georgia the humidity is terrible.  Corrosion control will be an ongoing process. 

Thanks again!

JDD

[jbrock27]

I strongly 2nd Doc's suggestion of using Wahl Clipper oil.  I think it would be the most effective way of staving off the rust and corrosion.

[janedoedad]

Thanks!  I will give that a try.

JDD

[rogertra]

I strongly 2nd Doc's suggestion of using Wahl Clipper oil.  I think it would be the most effective way of staving off the rust and corrosion.

I've tried both and I'd suggest Rail Zip.   


Cheers

Roger.

[Jerrys HO]

I second the use of Rail Zip. All I have ever used since I started in DCC.
Recommended to me by another modeler.

Jerry

[jbrock27]

Next opportunity, I will have to get and try some Rail Zip then.

[janedoedad]

Hello All,

Been some time since last checked in.  Have been working on the scenery and other aspects of the Oscar Line layout that are not Bachmann specific.  Scenery has been constructed of extuded foam, plaster cloth, drywall compound (leftover from jobsite), paper mache and cardboard.  


























Will post more about the layout later on today.

JDD