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"power routing" #5 turnouts

Started by mrmtox, February 18, 2014, 01:09:05 PM

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mrmtox

I apologize for re-visiting this topic. I have read the previous posts and am left as confused as I started by the 3 pages of posts. I just constructed a simple siding with left and right #5 EZ track turnouts. I also thought that when you switched from main line to siding ( or vice versa) the power shut off to the opposite track. Not so, both stay equally active. The electrical switching mechanism works fine but is definitely not switching  the power from one track to the other. Can anyone offer a SIMPLE explanation , i.e., are these switches  actually not "power routing" at all? Why are they described as that? Any simple soultion?  Does powering or not powering the frog make any difference to this situation?. I am using DC, not DCC. The siding does me no good if the train on it wants to move!! Thanks for any help offered!

Hunt

The turnout is not a power routing type. All routes are powered but the isolated frog is not powered.

The frog can be powered and the internal switch sets the correct polarity of the frog when the route is changed.

[utl=http://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/dwg/dwgs/HO__6_Turnouts_Instructions.pdf] Click Here [/url]  for turnout instructions.

Hunt


mrmtox

Thanks for that Hunt. Now I know I bought the wrong turnouts. Apparently Bachmann's 44861 and 44862 turnouts ARE power routing. That brings up two questions:
1. Any simple way to make my #5 turnouts power routing?
2. Does anyone know the angle of departure for the two I just mentioned (44861 and 44862) for designing the parallel track?
Continued thanks.

Hunt

1. Any simple way to make my #5 turnouts power routing?

To turn the siding on and off,  Click Here and scroll to  BASIC WIRING

2. Does anyone know the angle of departure for the two I just mentioned (44861 and 44862) for designing the parallel track?

Use 2.25"  straight  and  33.25 radius 12 degree curve track item no. 44509


          2.25" -- 12 degree 33.25"
       / 
   #5 --- 9" straight

Hunt

mrmtox,

WHOA!!!! Where scale dependent,  my answers are for Bachmann HO track as your questions are posted in the HO board. I just looked and items 44861 and 44862 are N scale remote turnouts!!

Hunt

An aside

For years Bachmann N gauge track was the power routing type. Then about a year or so ago Bachmann changed their N gauge track to all routes live type. I have yet to see an official announcement from Bachmann about this change.

mrmtox

Thanks again - I think the simple solution is to nick the siding track with my Dremel just beyond the switches to deaden it from the main. Then use an extra little Bachmann power source that I have from my N scale layout (this project is HO) and wire it directly to the siding track. Should be able to control the siding independently from the main - would actually be a convenient feature for the layout to be able to control the two trains separetly around the siding in this DC system.

Hunt

Suggest filling the nick gap cut in the rails to avoid potential electrical and operational problems.

mrmtox

What would you suggest filling the gap with? Perhaps a stupid question, but would something like clear finger nail polish be a good choice?

Joe Satnik


Should this be moved to the N Scale board?







If your loco is too heavy to lift, you'd better be able to ride in, on or behind it.

Hunt

Quote from: Joe Satnik on February 18, 2014, 08:20:08 PM

Should this be moved to the N Scale board?


Joe,
Notice  mrmtox states, "this project is HO"

Hunt

Quote from: mrmtox on February 18, 2014, 06:52:38 PM
What would you suggest filling the gap with? Perhaps a stupid question, but would something like clear finger nail polish be a good choice?

You can use the fingernail polish or epoxy.

Better to use small piece of styrene coated with CA to hold it place.  After CA has cured,  trim the styrene to match the rail profile.

Doneldon

Quote from: mrmtox on February 18, 2014, 03:07:26 PM
use an extra little Bachmann power source that I have from my N scale layout (this project is HO) and wire it directly to the siding track. Should be able to control the siding independently from the main - would actually be a convenient feature for the layout to be able to control the two trains separetly around the siding in this DC system.

mrm-

You don't need a separate power source for the siding. In fact, that could cause trouble if the polarity of the siding is different from the main and you move a loco from one to the other.

Rather than a separate power source, use your main source but run the line to the siding through an electrical switch which just turns the power on and off. That way you'll have the ability to turn the power off to the siding so any locomotive sitting there won't move while other trains are moving on other parts of the layout.

Using the separate power source is like using block wiring for the siding. It would permit you to run a train on the siding differently from what's moving (or not) on the main which might be desirable if the siding is a working branch to an industry or something. However, you'd still have a potential electrical problem if your polarities aren't matched and you move a loco (or anything else which uses power like lighted passenger cars or a lighted caboose) across the joint separating the two power sources.

I wouldn't take the chance of this happening. Put an on/off switch in the feeder to the siding.
                                                                                                                                          -- D

mrmtox

Thanks to everyone for their helpful suggestions. The plan of gaping the siding, adding a small secondary power source, and leading the trains on and off is working perfectly! There is a small learning curve as to the best power setiings for the main and sidind during switching of trains. That was accomplished easily by plotting the power curves for each track with their respective power sources. Just set both tracks to the ssame voltages and the train going on to the siding runing smoothly onto it - then turn that power source off. Close the siding switch and let the man line run.  If anyone else runs into this quandry I'd be more than happy to suggest this solution - it was very simple and very inexpensive. This is a great HELP board - thanks to all!