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Author Topic: new scratch building project  (Read 17933 times)
armorsmith


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« Reply #15 on: June 13, 2014, 09:09:33 PM »

After having read back, I see the reference to battery power. Still a quite spiffy way to do it.  I may have to look for some higher voltage motors, maybe in the 9-12 volt range.  I figure if I can find some in that voltage range I can run them in series. Two 9 volt motors in series will act like a single 18 volt motor. So even yours, consider daisy chaining the motors to allow higher voltage batteries.
Bob C.
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uscgtanker


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« Reply #16 on: June 13, 2014, 10:05:19 PM »

Wiring in series works well till one starts to overload. On the proto type all motors are in parallel but since we operate 600 VDC, so running in series doesn't work all that well.
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armorsmith


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« Reply #17 on: June 13, 2014, 11:54:04 PM »

You are correct in that the motors need to be similarly matched for it to work perfectly.  In the model world at these low voltages I believe without some sophisticated equipment, matching motors might be a challenge. At the higher voltages/currents of the prototype matching would be mandatory.
Should you like to spend the extra $$s, Pitmann motors will match any size motors you wish. I've looked into it for a slow moving project I am tinkering with.
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uscgtanker


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« Reply #18 on: June 14, 2014, 08:48:47 AM »

If you want to take a step further in to the project look into your gearing. is  it high speed, medium speed with equaled torque, or low speed with maximum torque. On this project thats the part I can't really fix prototypicaly. L-8 has a high and low gear that is set by placing more resistors in to the system.

I wish you luck in your projects that they don't overwhelm you that much. There is one thing that i like with large scale you can get more prototypicaly then in smaller scale. but my brother want's to go in to the welsh narrow gauge, some were between 15inch and 2 foot.
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armorsmith


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« Reply #19 on: June 14, 2014, 12:26:10 PM »

Not knowing if you are familiar with the Norfolk and Western's steam turbine electric (Jawn Henry), but that is my long term project.  I have been doing some exploratory solid modeling and have come up with a line shaft type drive train, the general design is shown here:
http://www.largescalecentral.com/forums/topic/17988/search/view/post_id/194766
Going to a traction motor design would work so much better, provided I can get the requisite speeds and torques. 1.75 inches gauge doesn't give much in the length to work in department and 31mm diameter wheels (1.22 inches) isn't much for clearance. There are 12 axles to power on this monster, so that also presents a challenge.
Bob C.
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uscgtanker


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« Reply #20 on: June 14, 2014, 04:31:52 PM »

I see your problem. My little traction motors will work for this but come at a price. Your loco has about the same design as the union pacific turbines. Then you would have to make 12 motors or make the center axle a idler then give it some extra weight. I would love to take this for a challenge but my building desk is quite full at the moment if you know what I mean.
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uscgtanker


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« Reply #21 on: June 19, 2014, 08:31:03 AM »

A full week of raining weather allowed me to keep building L-8. so this is whats done sofar to date.
http://s1288.photobucket.com/user/uscgtanker/media/L-8%20project/P1020488_zps4a1cfeba.jpg.html?sort=3&o=0

the hand rails are added to one side of the cab, door is in and the floor is laid down. been looking at RC systems and found a 2 channel 2.4 ghrs system at Hobby Town. I might wire in the trucks to run on track voltage for a period of time. After both ends are half detailed I will move on to the roof that will hinge for full access.
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uscgtanker


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« Reply #22 on: June 23, 2014, 11:03:05 AM »

The RC systems were soldiered in place this morning. Now i just have to get a adapter for the battery and will give her a test run. it's only been around 2 1/2 months since i started. lights will be added later after some more electrical figuring.
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uscgtanker


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« Reply #23 on: July 20, 2014, 10:25:18 PM »

I have been working on the lights for L-8 recently. It will run on one AA battery with 1.5 volts. There's going to be a manual switch to change light directions. With the main head light center then the class markers on each side and the red's on the rear. I'm going to make a section of the roof removable for both batterers. After that is all worked out I press on to the finishing details and paint. Then on to the next project Chicago South Shore & South Bend Railroad interurban cars. These I will be selling after three cars are built for display at the east troy depot.

If any one is interested on seeing the real prototype I can give you a first hand tour of our car barn in east troy.
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uscgtanker


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« Reply #24 on: September 12, 2014, 04:14:44 PM »

I have been having a few problems with my RC system. The motors over load the system and shut it down. Plus the little motors I added made great sence, but they don't have that much weight or pulling power up grades. I'm tempted to either rebuild the trucks with worm drives or convert to standard DC power. The body won't be that much altered and lights will still be battery power.

Suggestions will be helpful on what you think will work best in this situation.
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Loco Bill Canelos

Model railroading since 1947


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« Reply #25 on: September 12, 2014, 07:05:38 PM »

What RC system are =you using??  I would add weight if possible rather than re motor. 
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Loco Bill,  Roundhouse Foreman
Colorado & Kansas Railway Missouri Western Railway
Semi Official Historian; Bachmann Large Scale
There are no dumb or stupid questions, just questions!
armorsmith


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« Reply #26 on: September 13, 2014, 01:18:12 AM »

Bill,

If you read back to the beginning of the thread, the goal is to do axle mounte drive similar to the NWSL Flea drives. He is using low voltage motors, that if run on standard large scale power will run extremely fast, if they survive the experience.  Coupled with the low quality (said inconsistency) of manufacturing and there is a recipe for failure.

Possible using a quality motor (ie Pittman) designed to run at our voltage and the idea will have a better chance of success. Alan at GAL Line and I looked into it. I found something that was close to working but too long. Unfortunately the cost to tool for our needs was cost prohibitive.

My guess is that the current draw several of the small mitors is overloading the R/C RX.  I doubt any RX will make the cut here. Current not to mention the 'noise' the cheap motors generate

Bob C.
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uscgtanker


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« Reply #27 on: September 13, 2014, 06:24:50 PM »

Yes I could add more weight to the loco. I have 2 road spikes cut up in the humps of the engine. What one of the members at East Troy RR is add a resistor or 2 to reduce current flow. As I said earlier is to rebuild in DC power with more weight and or a bigger motor, instead of a 5 volt say go up to a 10 if the size permites. I can take more detailed photos of the completed truck to show how much space I'm working with.
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Loco Bill Canelos

Model railroading since 1947


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« Reply #28 on: September 14, 2014, 08:50:50 AM »

Using a resistor and adding weight sounds interesting, let us know how it works out!
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Loco Bill,  Roundhouse Foreman
Colorado & Kansas Railway Missouri Western Railway
Semi Official Historian; Bachmann Large Scale
There are no dumb or stupid questions, just questions!
uscgtanker


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« Reply #29 on: September 22, 2014, 10:35:45 PM »

I have tried a resistor in the electrical system with no good effect. Looks like I'm going to DC power. But on the plus side I have finished the main body work besides windows and small details, and started painting. Hopefully I will have her at Milwaukee train fest in the East Troy Railroad booth.
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