Track Pins

[Fxguy1]

So I finally have my table built using hardboard for the top / surface. I laid the cork board track bed and now I'm trying to nail the track down with track pins, problem is they are so thin that they don't penetrate the hardboard and instead end up bent.

So I thought I'd just drill the hole for the pin, but problem is I can't seem to figure out what size bit I would need since they are extremely tiny pins.

Anyone know if they are standard size?

Thanks!

[jbrock27]

Tinier than found at the local hardware store or big box store. Check out Micro Mark, they have sets if small drill bits that you don't find elsewhere, that can be used for modeling as well as for what you are looking for.

How long are the nails you are trying to use?  And are you actually nailing them, or trying to secure them using needle nose pliers?  What kind of wood for "hardboard"?

[Fxguy1]

They are Peco Streamline 14 pins and are approximately 9/16" long. I've tried both nailing them and securing them with needle nose pliers. The hardboard is basically the pegboard stuff from Menards without the holes in it. Its 1/4" thick.

[Len]

The Peco pins are designed for cork over homasote or extruded foam, they aren't intended to penatrate plywood. That's why they are called "pins" rather than "nails". A quick search for "track nails" will bring up several companies that offer them in a size for HO & N track that can be driven into plywood.

If you use nails, be careful not to drive the head tight against the track ties. Too much pressure on the ties will cause them to bend slightly, narrowing the gauge of the track enough to cause problems. You want the nail head about business card thickness above the ties.

Len

[charon]

Len,
Fxguy said he's using "pegboard stuff".  It's probably some type of Masonite which is too hard for track nails, unless you predrill each hole.  Perhaps the track should be glued to the roadbed with an adhesive caulk.  Just my two cents worth.
Chuck

[jbrock27]

That is what I thought you were going to say you are using based on what you had said in an earlier post about benchwork FX.

Agree with Chuck.  Another option bc of the type of hardboard you are using is to use hobby screws.  Put the hole in between ties so the head of the screw rests on the 2 ties and apply the same caution to not tighten the screw down so much that crushes the ties too far downward.  A screw like a #3 Phillips Truss Head may work for ya.  The screws have a low enough profile that if you stick to putting them in the middle of the track, they should not interfere w/anything.

[Len]

Ooops! It was almost 1am, and I missed the "hardboard' comment. Even so, Peco pins are strictly for soft under support surfaces, e.g., foam, homasote, etc.

Len

[jbrock27]

This is good info.

[jbrock27]

Just had another thought for ya, FX. 
Maybe you could try this; can you cut down the length of the pin to be just long enough to get through the cork?  What I am thinking is you can trim the end using a pair of wire cutters (sometimes called 'dykes') or linesman's pliers or something similar.  Cut at an angle so you still have somewhat of a point to go into the cork.

[Fxguy1]

Thanks for the great info! Indeed the "hardboard" is Masonite, I was blanking last nite and couldn't remember the name for it! Lol. I've got two plans so far. The first is using the nails I used for the cork track bed I hammered that in to make a hole then used the pins which seemed to work pretty well and stay tight in place. The other is purchasing some Athens track nails and using them with pre drilled holes. Not sure why I'm not hot on the idea of gluing the track down ?

[charon]

FX, check the latest issue of Model Railroader.  They are building an N scale layout and they are gluing the track to the roadbed.
Chuck

[jward]

fx,

I do hope you have something else under that Masonite. it is not strong or thick enough by itself to make a good surface for your railroads. Masonite can and does warp.  you'd be better off using something thicker like 1/2" plywood.

[Fxguy1]

Jeff,
     Even with one by four stringers underneath? I have one by four framing spaced every 24 inches
Tim

[jward]

yes, even with 1x4 underneath. the Masonite is not strong enough to support itself in between the stringers, plywood is. I have said this before to others and i'll say it again. there is no substitute for building right the first time. it is better to overbuild than to underbuild as you have done. eventually, you will have to go back and correct what you have done, and the longer you wait to do it the more work you will have to do. better to do it right before you permanently lay track, than to have to rip everything out to correct a mistake later. 1/2" plywood isn't that expensive, especially compared to the buildings and scenery you're likely to damage later. plus the added frustration before you get to the rebuild point, when all your carefully laid track kinks or comes apart because of a poor foundation.

[jbrock27]

Can't disagree with any of that.