So after I placed my order with the outrageous shipping charge, I got a reply to my e-mail and she said to call in your order and you would be able to get better shipping prices.
So if you're going to order, call them, do not order from the website.

Thanks Chris.   Got my order in.   I had looked around the website beforehand and couldn't find it.   
I see it now but it is elusive 
Now waiting for the 2015 issue.

That's great Chris.   Looking forward to it.
By the way, who has the 2014 Annuals for sale?   I wrote WR last week but no reply.   Are there any left?

Does that mean there won't be a 2015 annual?

Another good thing about using caulk under the EZ Track is that it separates it from the plywood and will help keep down the noise transmission.

Best method is use an adhesive caulk, found at HD or Lowes or hardware store.   
Just put a small bead under the edges (draw a line on the outside of your track base that you put down temporarily)
Or if you're real good you can try to run the bead under the edges by lifting them up slightly.
Do NOT use big globs or a lot of caulk (a little bit'll do ya)
The good part is the caulk will allow you to remove the track later on if you want.

Larry Knapp (BigLars) did tutorials on all of the gear replacements.   See the Shay one here:http://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/board/index.php/topic,24292.0.html

read this over and you will find it is a really easy job and does NOT require any gear press.

Definitely visit Harold's website for details on how to do this.   He has a lot of great stuff there.

Jeff's ideas are good ones.
The plastic buckets sure are the cheapest method to get your height.

And the hinge folding in the middle can also get you the extra width at the same time, just use a 6" (or wider) board in the middle and a hinge on both sides for the plywood panels.
This allows you to fold up the layout for storage AND have some space in between the panels for anything that might be on the underside (wiring, etc).   You will need short track sections to cross over the 6" mid piece but that is easy enough.

Bachmann is a good company to deal with and the service department is tops.

This is an ideal problem to solve using battery power.   Change your engines over to batteries and you won't ever think about rail oxidation again.

Nothing new in On30 for 2014.

I know you were talking about dust control on the tracks and a lot of good answers for that.   But now that the proverbial "track cleaning" subject has come up I have to remind you to never, Never, NEVER use an abrasive on your track or wheels.   The abrasive will create miniscule gouges which in turn will ADD to the arcing and crud deposits on the track.

Instead, do a good wipe down with a good cleaner or chemical and then simply rub the top of the rail with graphite.   A wide carpenters pencil works well for applying the graphite to the rail heads.   And it doesn't have to be everywhere.   The wheels will carry it around the layout to the hidden areas.

The graphite fills in any grooves and cuts and it conducts electricity, eliminating the arcing.   Once done, it should last a year before having to re-apply the graphite.   Because there will not be any arcing, cleaning the track again will not be necessary.

Lots of complainers here.   If you look around you can find what you want.   Although Bachmann may not offer exactly what you want, others do.   The BLI C-16 is a great engine and can still be found.   And if you don't like to kit bash your own locos, there are many folks who will do it for you, sometimes very affordable or free.
Sounds like the On30 naysayers are just looking for an excuse to get out of the gauge.
Me, I'm in it for the long haul and appreciate all the Bachmann has given to the gauge.

That website page is from last March 2013.