I have a question concerning my N scale Explorer set, however I think it will apply to all scales and beyond.

It comes with two EMD locos, one a powered, the other a dummy. They are both exactly the same in scheme, including road number (215).

Can anyone explain to me is this really possible in real life?  I understand that if a train has an A and B units, then maybe it is possible to have both units having the same road number.  But identiccal A units?

What are road numbers painted on the side of a loco anyway?  Are they loco identifications, or a route identification?

I have seen several of these.  For example ebay number:330124946418   

None of the sellers seemed to have a boxcover.  I wonder was that the way it was packaged, or was it a promotional item with no box...

I also like to know which Bachmann catalog number is this set, and what year was it made.

Can you return the item back to the place where you purchased?

I have not converted mine yet, but I do have both.  My tracks are all 11.25" or less (by bending them liberally)...not too many problems.   But you just have to be *very* careful when you put the locos on the track to make sure indeed all wheels are on the track, as they are very deceiving.  It is not that easy because you cannot use a rerailer for locos.

I have installed the RR Trains 2000 program and although it is not perfect, it is very good as a freeware!

I am trying to identify the following trains original Bachmann catalog numbers, as they are no longer in production.

1. 50' Steel Reefer Fruit Growers Express 90699 Orange.  I do not have the original box..

2. The EMD F9 and its dummy Sante Fe from the Explorer Train Set.  I have the catalog numbers for the very very old versions made in Hong Kong, which are now no longer relevant.  I wonder if those two had ever been sold independantly and not as part of a train set.

3. Also the off center caboose (Sante Fe)..what was its catalog number when it was sold originally..was it a Silver series?

4. 51' Flat Twin Sea-Land Container Car New Haven.  Made in China usually in the white paper box.

5. 41' Chemical Tank Car Hooker 69502.  Also made in China usually in the white paper box.

KCR Clyde G12.

There is a picture of Sir Alexander in http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Image:KCR-siralexander.JPG


They are Australian clones or variations of EMD.  Clyde became part of GE by the 70s. 

Here are the G12's stats:
http://www.geocities.com/Tokyo/Bay/9585/eastrail/rstock.html

and the improved version:

http://locopage.railpage.org.au/private/cfcla_tl.html


I grew up riding on them...

I am in the process of collecting vintage rolling stocks.  While I pretty figure it out as to the range of the old silver series, I am curious about things like special editions, and really old stocks 60s -70s, etc.

What would be some good years that I should look for vintage Bachmann catalogs?

Quote from: Jim Banner on February 14, 2007, 12:08:26 PM
Did they happen to mention if/when they will be upgrading their software to work with Windows XP or Vista?  Running only on Windows 95, 98 or ME makes it rather obsolescent.

Actually it will be more economical to have a program run on the most ancient OS like a 95.  In that case you can buy a very old and cheap laptop, install 95 practically for free, and run the programs exclusively just for the train.   

I support the idea of having a "Wanted" forum,  but not a for sale one.  And I think that all "wanted" forum posts can only be replied privately.

Quote from: JerryB on April 28, 2007, 03:04:20 AM
Not a model train show, but a real LARGE SCALE (AS IN 1:1) event. My wife & I are volunteering this weekend as parlor car attendants on the Bay Area Electric Railway Association's Western Railway Museum Scenic Limited Trains. Three trips plus an early evening charter on Saturday, then three more trips on Sunday.

This is the last weekend of this yearly event. If you're in N. California, come out and ride on the old Sacramento Northern Oakland to Sacramento line while viewing the wildflowers. About 5 miles are under wire. The museum has one of the largest operating electric train collections in the country. See:
http://www.wrm.org/events/upcoming_events.htm
for wildflower trip details and:
http://www.wrm.org/index.html
for information about the BAERA / WRM.

See Ya on Board!

Happy RRing,

Jerry

That was my first (and only) time ever been to a train museum when I was living in California.   It was a very nice place.  The irony was that we were just driving on the highway for a normal weekend drive...and saw the museum, and decided to go in..with half an hour left before closing.  We basically went in for free.  Too late for any train rides, but did enjoy the trains and the displays.  We had no idea that there was ever a train museums ever existed.

Quote from: Paul M. on March 08, 2007, 11:31:45 AM
I have a layout on a 5x9 foot Ping-Pong table. I'm about ready to start my scenery. Here's a pic from an earlier stage of my layout:

How does yoru cat feel abou tthe trains? ;-)

I dismantled the entire loco, and tested the motor...it works, so that is good news.  I still need to test the lights.  Come Monday I think I'm gonna give the service department a call, to see if they can just send me a PCB with the lights soldered on already, if not, just the PCB will be good enough.  I just have to solder the lights myself.

I got it from a discounter, so there was no box, just the plastic bags and the instructions.  I suspect it is an older model, because the trestle seemed to be meant for the older (non-EZ track) tracks.

The instructions gives the item as:
Item no.56-1221 "N" Blinking Bridge and Trestle Set.  Printed in Hong Kong

Nevertheless, it still makes no sense that the blinking causes the train to stop and go. 

I am planning to convert all my cars from rapido to MT..either 1133 or 1134.
I neither have a physical sample of 1133 nor 1134.  All my rolling stocks are from the current catalog: I have every single BNSF (Great Northern or Santa Fe) rolling stocks..which comes to about 20.  All of them except one use truck mounted couplers.  I want to do coupler conversion as opposed to truck conversion since I do not like plastic wheels.  I understand that 1133 is mid shank, while 1134 is long shank. 

Can anyone give me a report on which one is more suitable...1133 or 1134?
A closer coupling (1133) makes it more realistic, but a longer coupling (1134) makes it less likley to have problems..

All my curves are 11.25" radius curved.  The current couplers are ok, but they uncoupled on occasions, usually between the spectrum loco (body mount couplers) and the first car. 

If some cars are more suitable for 1134 than 1133, or vice versa, can someone give some suggestions, such as "cabooses use 1134, boxcars use 1133..)?

So how can I fix the stop and go problem?