Well, it’s built. I did the necessary modifications and cut my track today. This will be a nice looking structure once the decoration, which will involve putty, is complete.

My thanks to those who responded. If anyone plans to build this kit and would like some “inside information” please feel free to contact me. There are quite a few important cautions that are not included in the manual.

Craig

Bill,

I wouldn't return them because I've got so much labor in assembly, decoration and weathering as it is. I’m not one to weather after I put the windows in. None of the problems were apparent until it came time to put the roof on, which is the last step.

I've talked to Walthers about it and they're still trying to figure out what to do. I sent them pictures of the problem areas on Friday. Monday I got a reply that was unhelpful. I followed their instructions (which I knew were not going to help) and then sent more pictures illustrating that their panels are much too long. It simply cannot be assembled without extensive modifications. I have the means to make the mods if need be.

I've yet to hear back again.

Craig

Thanks, Bill. I have a great deal of time in this model and I'd prefer to avoid cutting the remaining components if possible. Please feel free to provide my e-mail address to your friend. I'd love to see a picture of his finished product.

Craig

Chris, I agree with you. Fine ballast at the surface of the ties just looks like paste to me. I prefer medium ballast and at varying levels, including on top of the ties here and there.

Craig

Of the 100 yards of Midwest Products cork roadbed I've installed in the last 20 months there were quite a few pieces that had sharp angles on the slopes. I always sand cork before laying track and putting something of a "bull nose" on those sharp angles is part of the process. The cork looks much more realistic when ballasted if that angle is eased slightly. Most pieces I used did not require it.

Dennis, you've gotten some good advice on ballasting. I think most of us use similar techniques. I shape/position the ballast with a paint brush and then spray it with wet water (water plus a drop or two of detergent) until it is slightly moist. Then I dribble diluted white glue between the ties with an eyedropper. The glue seeps into the ballast along the sides. A second spray of wet water ensures that the glue is distributed uniformly, as indicted by subtle pudding at the outermost edges of the ballast.

I airbrush the ties before ballasting.


Craig

I'm building a 6-stall version of this kit and I have a number of concerns. If anyone has built this kit I would appreciate some pointers.

On both of my kits there are several components that do not fit as-is. The roof panels are too long and the clerestory windows don't fit, either. The roof panels cannot be positioned to fit without notching them. And the window units would have to be notched AND trimmed in order to fit. And what's with the gaps at each end of the roof panel joints? What am I missing here?

Craig

Thanks for correcting my error, Robert. I had always assumed this was a Walthers item.

The Walthers rotary snowplow I have is driven by a rubber band attached to an axle. When the locomotive moves the plow the rotor turns. It works very poorly. Plastic wheels slip quite easily on metal track so it almost never turns. You could add 5 ounces of weight and it would still slip.

The glue stick is the same concept as the duct seal I suggested. 

Craig

Robert,

Here's what I do:

I move my rolling stock to a large, flat area with plenty of light. If I drop the screw it doesn't hit the floor and I can see exactly where it ends up. I use a magnetic screwdriver (no, it won't hurt a thing) to remove the screw and I use a screwdriver with a bit of duct seal stuck to the tip to reinsert it. Then I use the magnetic one to set the screw. If you have a local sign shop you might pick up a scrap piece of magnetic vinyl to use on your work bench.

Craig

"most foam [that I've used anyway], has a clear moisture barrier sheet over the actual foam and this doesn't allow the glue to stick very well."

I don't find that on the Owens Corning extruded foam, but I do find it on the Dow. It peels off like the protective film on a new appliance. I don't think any of us leave it there.

Craig

I've installed 100 yards of HO flex track in the past 2 years. I don't use nails. I run a bead of adhesive caulk down my centerline, then spread it very thinly with a putty knife. The thin layer of caulk is slightly narrower than the width of the ties. The layer is thin enough that it does not come up between the ties but does slightly reduce the amount of ballast required. Working time is about 4 minutes. Upon installation, I secure the track with pushpins and quilting pins and I weight the track briefly. I can lay about 5 sections per hour on curves- more if the sections are bench-soldered.

I employ a similar technique when installing cork roadbed, in which case I use quilting pins exclusively in place of pushpins. Adhesive caulk is excellent for track to cork, track to foam, cork to foam, and cork to wood applications.

I’ve never seen a track nail that would work on 2” extruded foam or 4” Woodland Scenics inclines and risers. It doesn't matter what's under your foam subroadbed if your nail can't reach it.

Craig

Cherry Creek Hobbies has good prices and service. http://www.cchobbies.com/

I used Dap adhesive caulk. Spread thin along a center line almost as wide as the ties. You can't see it when ballasted if you do it right. Hold in place with push pins and weights for about 15 minutes and then move on. Very quick, strong bond.

White glue will desolve and soften when ballasting your track. It is definately the wrong choice.

Thanks Bill. I suspected the topic might have been covered but I haven't seen the thread.