Nigel,

About 4 or 5 years ago I was laying some Atlas code 100 to their code 86 and noticed an ever-so-slight difference in elevation between the two.  My LHS said there were Atlas adapters (for lack of another term) that I could use to join the two codes together.  They are about 3 inches in length. I bought some and inserted them between the two different codes of track and it resulted in a smooth transition. In looking at the Atlas on-line catalog I do not see them advertised. 

In light of your post describing the two Atlas codes being at the same heigth, I am wondering if this is a new design and if these adapters are still needed?  My code 100 was quite old.

Thanks, Bill

Nigel,

Thanks for the links.  Do you know what is meant by "requiring 45 inch wheels"?  Am I correct in assuming that the trailing trucks do not come with wheels?

Bill

Hmmmm, Luigi in Joisey?  Is that Luigi "the whacker"?

I could use 4 sets myself too.

Jack,

This is a little off the subject, but you mentioned that kiddo that put his grubby little hands on the Shay.  It brought to mind a funny event that happened about a year ago with my eldest grandson.  We were watching our little 4-6-0 pull a consist around my layout and at the time he was eating a bologna sandwich with mustard.  Just as the locomotive passed by him he was leaning over the track and a huge drop of mustard fell from his sandwich and onto the engine.  Well it not only hit the top of the boiler but got meshed in the rods.  I couldn't stop it quick enough.  My first thought was what in the world will Bachmann Service think of this little mess?  But after laughing my self silly and coming to my senses, I finally was able to clean all of the mustard off with a little bit of alcohol.  It's a moment my grandson and I will hold dearly with each other for a long time.  I just wanted to share this with you.
Bill

Tom,

Let me second what Sheldon said.  I have a P2K SW8 in DC and it runs really well.  It has great low speed characteristics and can push/pull about 8 or 9 freight cars without any problem.  I have a 2% grade that I make it climb every now and then, and it can pull about 6 cars without spinning out or stalling.  Now, not all of my freight cars are in good shape and some of the wheels need cleaning, but for the most part it handles them quite well. I usually keep my switcher in the yards on a dead block and only rarely run it around my entire layout.  It would be a great buy...go for it.

Jim, I haven't put the WS River Pass set together, but it looks like a great looking project. I don't know if there is any hard and fast rules as to putting scenery down first or wiring first.  I've done it both ways.  Since you are at the stage of putting the landscaping down I would go ahead and pre position my wiring leads at the sites you wish to place your structures and signal lights.  You might even drill holes in your board and give yourself enough lead to do your wiring connections.  A lot depends if you will be able to remove your buildings after you have applied your scenery. On the layouts I've had I never glue or seal my buildings down that I can't come back at a later time and run some wiring. Exceptions are when I plan to mold my landscapping material around the foundation of my buildings.  That pretty well seals your building to your board. In cases like that you certainly want your wiring and interior light bulbs already in position when you set your building up.

Go to the Bachmann Photo Gallery and look at two of the layouts our Mr. B. did.  They look great, but I don't know if he had any wiring running to his structures before he put his scenery down.

How about it Mr. B?  Did you?

Good luck,
Bill

Jay,

Thanks for the information about Bowser.  I got on their website and I think I found what I needed.  I'd love to get my old Connie running again.

Barry,

You're right.  The PBS channel in Arkansas doesn't carry it.

Robert,


That makes very good sense.  I think I'll try one more meeting and explain these procedures.  I honestly don't care how the car spotting is carried out...I just want to run some of my engines and have a good time.  This bickering is the reason why the group had about 20 members at one time and now is down to about 4 or 5 regulars.  There are other groups in my area that are not so disfunctional....so hope remains.

Thanks to you all for your input.

Bill

Auuugh!  that's right.  Thanks Scot. 

Mr. B,

Wasn't there a members link a few days ago in which it would display all message board members alphabetically?  I can't seem to find the link now.  Has it been removed or relocated?

Thanks, Bill

I don't think Bachmann makes them any more, but you can certainly find some on e-bay and they're relatively cheap.  I bought one a few years ago, and it too had a ginding sound.  I think it's just the nature of the pancake motor.  I love the configuration and am thinking of putting a whole new power unit in it.  I think NWSL has a power unit which is compatible.  And by the way, I took the trailing wheels of mine too.

I'm in the early stages of building my fourth layout and I plan to wire it in preperation of using DCC.  Jim Banner gave me a great idea of using a hidden yard in DC.  This could also serve as a programming track.  Thanks Jim for the thought.  I, too, will slowly convert my DC engines to DCC.

Is it my imagination or are the Woodland Scenics structures smaller than DPM?  Which is truly 1:87?

Stewart,

What is the Fred Dinbah series? I've never heard of it and I love steam.