If by chance you will need a new decoder; go to Parts Catalog, HO parts, 44 Ton Switcher, page two.  You can get the PCB alone or with the decoder.  Prices are 30.00 and 50..  dollars respectively.  Hope the helps.  Stephen

Without actually seeing the locmotive, it sounds as if the plastic axle center joiner has cracked.  This is a common event with this era of locomotive.  From my experience, CA will not work.  A small amount of epoxy of some sort may work if you can get a good grip without interfering with the wheel movement.  If you can find replacements for the plastic piece, that is the way to go.  They are press fitted and can be done by hand.  Hope that helps some.  Stephen

EZ Command also allows the use of an extra DC controller but only one.  It will give you an extra DCC point on your DCC controller and allow you to run a DC locomotive.

Assuming you are talking about the black roadbed, steel EZ Track, yes it is.  Carefully remove the ends of the EZ Track and secure the rails to the ends of the Crossing.  Just make sure that the rails won't slid apart.  If your other track is long enough you may not have to remove anything.  Just connect the rails via connectors or solder and ballast over the area to cover up the snap and open space.  Hope that helps,  Stephen

I'm not sure of the size of the U joint but you may have to change both sides of the drive shaft.  Fairly easy to do but does take a little time.  Both A Line and Micromark as well as Walthers have a universal drive line kit.  I've not used any of North West Short Lines drive line items so I'm not sure of their compatibility  with the universal drive line componets.  Stephen

On the flywheel question...which frame do you have?  If you have the horizontal later type frame you will first need to machine out some of the frame area.  I would turn some flywheels down just a bit as well to make them fit.  Make sure the flywheel shaft holes are not very much bigger than the shaft diameter!  Use a glue that is designed for secureing the flywheel to the shaft.  Several are out there.  If in doubt, Joe Delia at Proto Power West/A Line has a good one.  Micro Mark sells one as well.  Hope that helps some.  Stephen

2 mm.

You say it slips in the same spots?  Are these areas near switches in the track?  If so I would first check the metal pieces below the couplers that resemble air hoses.  They may be catching on the frogs or such.  I that doesn't help let us know.  Stephen

The new ones have a split frame horizontally!  Some had a vertical split frame.  I have several of the horizontal split frames that I have very successfully added decoders and sound as well, too!  First you need to isolate the motor.  Then you need to determine the type of decoder you want to install.  Most likely you will need to mill away some of the frame material but if you get the PCB decoders straight from Bachmann you can just screw it in place of the PCB that is already on board.  Just remember to isolate the motor from the frame and solder your wires to the new board.  Sounds kinda simplistic but once you complete one it is not that difficult to do.  As a side note, I've also added flywheels to the "blue box"  Bachmanns.  Hope that helps a bit.  Stephen

Any decorder can be installed, just need to determine where to place the decoder and make sure the motor is isolated.  I assume the locos you purchased are the same as in the US.  If they are I've installed several in the GP 40s.  What kid of frame do they have?  Stephen

rbryce1,

I only got into this hobby in 2006 and so I'm fairly green still.  There has been a lot of great suggestions on this thread but I have a couple more that might help.  Every loco I get goes through a series of test/improvements.  I also check the amp draw to stall with a weight gauge designed to measurement the pull weight of the loco prior to stall speed.  MicroMark has the gauge if your interested.  It shows the max you can pull prior to stall speed/wheel slip/max amp draw.  It's a bit over the top but I just like doing that as part of the hobby!  I also do a final test prior to releasing the loco for duty on a 1.5% grade.  If it can't pull at least twenty five properly weighted cars then it's back to the shop!  I used to check the tractive effort by running the same train in the reverse direction of the grade.  I don't know how that might help but it could give you some idea of where the wheel slip might start.  Logically, if the wheels won't hold it back, then it won't pull either. This would also save your motors.  Just some more input to help.  Stephen

How about a Helix in one corner?

Maybe a good Psychiatrist for the "dementions".  Sorry, couldn't resist.  Stephen

To All,  may we reflect and give thanks for all that we have been Blessed with.  Happy Thansgiving.  Stephen

Truck tuner is always a good idea.  But get rid of all plastic wheelsets!  Put insulatied metal wheelsets on and you will be amazed.  Add weight.  Even to the Silver series.  Check NMRA website for standards and follow them fairly close.  Should take care of your problems with the other rolling stock brands.  Stephen