Where can I buy 4 wheel flat beds like those in Misty Island that were used for logging cars?

Thanks DinoNTrains for the measurements.
Man that's pretty big, I had planned on an additional 36" X  48" module for the round house but that allows little room for locos to round a curve once on the module before they will hit the turn table. I'll have to sharpen my pencil again and work something out.

Looking good.
You are the first guy I've seen with a complete half circle of sheds (9) could measure the full width and from front of turntable to rear or sheds? Thanks

My upcoming operation was brought forward on Monday, it was supposed to be Jan 9. By Tuesday mid day I was recovering from a Sept bypass yes seven. I came home today and preparing for a long recovery so the layout will wait but kit building and dcc conversions will go full steam ahead.

Thanks guys for your input, it would appear there are no hard and fast rules except to exercise care when laying track.

I've laid all the road bed and have started laying track. I had to use a double slip to get trains between the two oval sections of track as straight level track is at a premium. The good news is that I can push 4 wagons through all routes in both directions without derailments or stops. Also Percy managed to push 4 wagons up the 4% grade, he even managed a start mid incline.
You'll note I said push because I've converted quite a few pieces of rolling stock to KD couplers but none of the locos as yet.
I have used the Woodland Scenics Foam Sub Terrain system, it's a lot more expensive than the cookie cutter method but a lot lighter and simpler. So here's a bunch of questions.
1. Do you guys solder lengths of flex track together before you lay it?
2. Do you solder it to the switches or just use the connectors?
3. How many feeders should I use, there's only about 40 ft of track total and none of it will be more than about 5 feet from the controller as the crow flies?
4. Should I connect feeders to switches?

I'm using this system on my grandson's new layout. I see people have used various adhesives including hot glue, "No Nails" and of course WS have their own expensive version.
My question is what adhesive have members used to install it and how where the results? It's going down on a foam board base.

Back home and just waiting for the foam glue to set then I start marking out where the track will go.
In the past I've used the actual flex track and switches, mark around it and then lay the roadbed.
Is there a better way?

It looks like I am going to be forced to use a couple of curved switches/turnouts.
I realize this is likely not best practice but when you are short on space  it can't be helped.
What is the tightest radius these are available in.
This is OO/HO and I'm using Peco 100.

Quote from: MilwaukeeRoadfan261 on November 28, 2012, 10:36:32 PM

Quote from: AndyJB on November 28, 2012, 10:12:13 PM

Quote from: SodorAdventures on November 28, 2012, 03:13:02 PM
3. try to curve the edges of the benchwork, as it avoids issues (especially if you have young kids). Just my 2 cents. -Tanner

Thanks for the tips but could you elaborate on #3, I'm not sure what you mean by "curve the edges"
Thanks Andy.

What he means by "curve the edges" is make any sharp corners rounded so that should a kid bump their head on the edge of the board, they won't cut their heads that would require a trip to the emergency room. What I would do to round any sharp corners would be to sand them down with some sand paper or a portable belt sander until the corners are nice and round like a wheel on a train.

Gotcha, good advice except mine will be at the little guys waist height.
I'm sad cos nothing is going to progress for the next couple of days as I'm away from home working.
Never mind more to look forward to.

Quote from: SodorAdventures on November 28, 2012, 03:13:02 PM
3. try to curve the edges of the benchwork, as it avoids issues (especially if you have young kids). Just my 2 cents. -Tanner

Thanks for the tips but could you elaborate on #3, I'm not sure what you mean by "curve the edges"
Thanks Andy.

I have finally started the layout, the bench work is complete all but the legs. Bench work without legs?? Currently it is sitting on my table saw and it's extended table. This is because it's final resting place will be at a back breaking 24 to 30" , just right for a young lad but not for me.
It's basically a double loop, one going over the other at one end, 3 inside the loop spur lines and one outside spur which will go to a future module housing the roundhouse.
Most of the Bachmann Thomas stuff has already been bought by relatives and friends, about 30 pieces of rolling stock and 12 locos and the round house with 3 additional stalls. I picked up a Digitrax Zephyr and just one decoder with steam sound. The other locos will be tackled one by one later $$$Ouch! I still have a bunch of Peco 100 flextrack and switches from my own layout from 20 years ago.
Now I just have to install the foam and then I can see how the track plan actually looks and operates on the bench work.

I won't bore you with photos just yet as a bunch of 4"x1" lumber is not too exciting.
Wish me luck.

Yucky brown?

Which would be the best way to build a 4 x 8 layout from modules.
Should the 2'x4' module run down the 8' side or across and what's the pros and cons?
The layout will be basically 2 loops, at one end the outer loop will run up a grade whist the inner loop will run down a grade to go into a tunnel under the outer loop.
Thanks Andy

Thanks for the link.