To follow up, I received the shuttle controller and it does turn the lights on.  Sometimes they come on immediately and sometimes it takes a few minutes, but they always come on within about 5 minutes but once on they stay on throughout.

Just got a rail bus and waiting on a Tam Valley Depot shuttle controller.  Curious if it's possible (and how) to program the lights to come on automatically.  There is no function key on the shuttle controller as far as I know.  I have an NCE power cab.

It seems the trailer is a bit light, and I assume adding weight may help.  Anyone have similar results with the rail bus trailer derailing?

Last year about this time there was some whispers of a bluetooth or wifi contol unit that would interface with the EZ command controller and allow you to use it with the EZ App.  Did that unit ever come out, or was it scrapped?

ADDED:  It's called the smart interface and was suppose to be out spring of 2016.

http://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/docs/E_Z_Command_Smart_Interface.pdf

Thanks for the help. Here's a summary of what I adjusted, maybe it will help someone else.

CV 8 programmed to 8 resets everything to defaults.

These sounds are always on and the volume can be adjusted:

132 - Air pump volume
134 - Blower volume

These sounds are tied to throttle and volume can be adjusted:

131 - Exhaust chuff volume
141 - Sniffer valve volume

Power cycle after reset/programming*.  If I don't power cycle after any programming then the bell button controls the headlight. Power cycle clears it.

Programming CV 8 to 8 reset it to (what appears) to be default settings.

OK, I bought a power cab.  Thought it would be prudent to have a programmer if I was going to have a dcc train.

Tried to program CVs 131 and 141.  Seemed pretty straight forward.  Except, it wasn't.  And now, the direction is backwards and the headlight seems to flash based on speed, and the horn, whistle and other functions don't work.

I guess I need to RTFM more carefully, and while I do that, is there a way to reset it back to default values so I can start over?

That's what I don't want, because I want to sound the whistles or bells, but not have the other sounds running full time.  So, I want to just turn off the sounds while the train is running (since I can't program them to an F key) but be able to use the selectable sounds, which I can't do if I mute all sounds with F8.

This is for a seasonal display, and having the sounds on all the time is just too much noise, but I want to be able to select a few sounds when I want to.

Ah, OK, thank you again.  So I guess since I cant map them I could just reduce the volume using those CVs?  64 is default, 32 is half, and then I just reduce them to zero if I want them off? If I can't map them then perhaps I just want them off completely.

I appreciate your help.

Tom

Thanks for the info on F9.  So I'll ask the same question except substitute another F key... F5 seems like a good one since by default it is the Dynamo.

I have a 4-6-0 steam loco (28905, ET&WNC to be exact), and a EZ Command controller.  I am hoping my local train shop will be willing to reprogram my sound for me, and I want to be able to give them details so they will be more open to help and not have to page through the manuals to figure it out.

I want to move the default sounds normally activated by the throttle and put them on F9.  I want to do this so I can activate and deactivate those sounds without muting all sounds.  I also want to reduce the volume for those sounds by at least half.

I think the sounds I want to move are Exhaust Chuff and Snifter Valve.  I'd also like to move whatever sounds are normally active while the loco is sitting still, if that is possible.

Would anyone be kind enough to help a newbie?   Is it even possible to do that?

Glad to help... and, if you are handy then you can probably make a set of jumpers without using the plug linked above.  Just using some solid copper wire and a little solder should do it up fine.... If you feel up to it.

See the reply above from bapguy, with a link to the part you need to make the jumper.

Quote from: jlc41 on January 04, 2016, 04:38:43 PM
I just bought a 4-4-0 DCC. I noticed it needs more power to start moving. Someone here suggested unplugging the decoder and installing a jumper. When I looked up the manual for this it said to remove the decoder and install a dummy and two 3 prong jumpers. Help, I am confused.

I got a used controller and companion and the command controller works fine.  The walk around companion lights up and all buttons and LEDs light as if it is working, but it doesn't control the loco.  Is there a way to reset the companion or troubleshoot the problem?

Can someone please tell me the model number of the power supply in the auto-reverse kit?

I'd like to build a very large set using the auto-reverse power supply in this kit.

Thanks.
Tom