Did you ever get this figured out ?

When I pulse the turnout switch it will briefly send current to a latching relay they will send power to a latching relay, the relay will switch the lights which are powerd through a separate power source

Yeah I got 5 switches I think it was for the price of what radio shack wanted for two switches or cheaper quality.  To answer your question, I want to have two switches through at the same time to put my train on an inner half circle instead of the outer half circle.  My son calls the inner line "philly station" but he throws the leading switch pulls the train in and forgets to throw the trailing switch when he laces the yard causing a derailment.  Plus, I think having a double pole, in the future, I can some how run a relay off of the second pole (for the switches that don't have two turnouts) to have light signals flip flop.

I didn't see the comment you were referring to with the plastic part???

The eBay site I bought from was in China so I'm sure it will take forever to get here, but at least I could browse around rather than just settling for whatever is in Home Depot or RadioShack etc. 

I guess in the mean time I can focus on the best way to wire everything.  Instead of cutting my AC power wire at each switch (for the switch hot) I would like to provide power to the first switch and then just jump a wire from it to the next switch and so on and so on.  With 16 volts and only a total of like 5 feet of wire total I can't imagine any problem with that right ? I mean after all the Bachmann switches I started with plugged right in to each other so that is essentially the same thing.  Now for the turnout commons since they are at different locations on the track, as opposed to the switches being side by side at the fascia, I suppose I WILL have to cut and splice at each. 

Thanks for all the info ... Yes I think I am good with the switches I ordered.  Eventually I am going to replace them with stationary dcc decoders, but I will be able to keep the switches in operation even with the those decoders to have two options for throwing the turnouts (either by dcc throttle or by switch on the fascia). 

As far as Soldering .... I will learn It as soon as I have the time, but I hear you.   

Thanks

If the switches you have have the wires already coming out of them and you want to throw them with your dcc controller you will need a "snapit" which regulates the power to the turnout in "dcc" voltage (you will notice those switches are supposed to run off 16 volt AC from a secondary transformer for non dcc regular operation.  The snap it will provide the turnout power from your command Station and it will also allow for communication to the dcc accessory via a decoder just like in an engine.  If the turnouts/crossovers done have wires and motors in them to begin with just forget it your wasting your time and money just buy new turnouts.  Honestly I was in the same boat as you and I wish I would have just spent the extra money for the dcc ready turnouts.  I think the "snapit" deceive is between 15 - 20 bucks each so do the math and compare what you have plus those devices and all wiring needed vs the EZ track dcc equipped turnout.

Note: actually I think you may also need to run one wire from each rail to the snap it as well for each turnout ... I may be wrong in saying that the command station will power it.  I think the command station will power the turnouts if they are ALREADY dcc equipped.

AGSB .... Thank you I wish I would have scene that but at least I know for future reference

Yes and I also forgot to mention, that would have required two switches per turnout (one for each direction) and also nothing at radio shack had screw down connections but rather solder connections.  Since I've never soldered before I don't think starting with soldering two wires the size of human hairs together is a good base learning experience ha ha. 

I went to radio shack, they only had single throw momentary switches.  I found what seem to be nice double pole double throw momentary switches on eBay which I purchased for a really good price.  With the double pole I can throw two switches at the same time if I decide in the future I suppose so I will install it like that and can always add wires if I decide. 

I need I believe a single pole double throw switch for switching my Bachmann turnouts with 16 volt ac.  I don't know where folks find switches for this type of thing.  Ideally instead of soldering the perfect switch would have screw down connection.

I forgot the switch has to be momentary.



Thanks

I got the screws off no problem.  Took the decoder off to the side.  I saw the silver shaft and I was able to place some lube on it (to answer your question I went to a specialty shop and the guy told me the particular product was good for gears or for the shaft) I was able to see one small gear through each wheel carriage, I lubed them.  Problem persists.  I don't see any way of accessing anything else on this engine, it blows my mind that they don't have all the places of maintenance easily.  I'm just gonna send it to the repair department and tell them to fix it.  I however can't stand not being able to work on my own stuff wether it's cars or small engine etc.  disappointing for the price of the engine.  The motor bushings that you spoke of seem to be buried deep to the point where you basically have to take the motor out.

Johnny - thank you ... I am using the green connector with the set screws currently.  The problem is with the connection at the terminal re railer.  I bought the terminals so I wouldn't have to solder, but it looks like soldering is going to be the way to go.  Still doesn't really explain the estop issue and how it is even related though since power is fine until pressing the stop button.  But thanks though for your reply

Wow that was definitely helpful thank you.  According to this I will have to remove the decoder circuit board to access the motor bearing.  I will just be careful I suppose.

Not sure ... All I know is it needs to be maintenanced .... I picked up some oil I just don't know where to apply it

I have a Bachmann Santa Fe f7 dcc sound value engine.  I am trying to lubricate the motor bearing because it is making a Nast winding sound.  I took the shell off but I don't see any access to the motor.  What else needs to be removed to have access for oiling ? Do I really have to remove the circuit board ? Do I have to remove the wheel carriages ?