Go to the Parts and Service section at the top.  They are not only there, but more of them! Stephen

petdrus,  sounds like your motor is binding for some reason.  i.e. the bushings are out of synch.  Or something along that line.  Probable best to either return it to Bachmann or purchase a replacement motor and refit.  Bachmann will sell motors if they have them on hand.  Several others are also available that are as good or better.  If you can take the motor out and free run it it might give you a better picture.  Then again, make sure that the gearing isn't binding anywhere as well.  Hope that helps a bit.  Stephen

riff99,  Tsunami is the manufacture for Bachmann Trains sound decoders.  The others are good systems as well.  It is not that difficult to add the sound.  Decide what system you want and go for it.  Some decoders need to have the speakers soldered on but basic soldering skills is all that is needed.  It you decide to drill the Tender, use a hand drill and a very small diameter drill bit!  This will help the sound however check your Tender, a lot of them are coming out with a place for the speakers molded in.  I'm not sure how old your 2-10-2 is but I have two.  One does and one doesn't.  Follow the directions with your decoder.  For Bachmann Trains, the eight pine plug is standard.  Go for a decoder with the eight pin plug.  It's as easy as removing the Tender shell, unplug the decoder and plug in the new decoder.  The plug is designed to operate plugged in a certain way.  If the controls work backwords, just remove the plug, turn it 180 degrees and plug it back in.  Some decoders won't work at all backwords.  Same thing just turn it around and plug it back in.  If you have any problems or technical expertise is needed, contact Jim Banner on this board.  He can walk you through anything electronic.   Stephen

Even helped us old guys who are new to the hobby but still remember and know what you're talking about!  lol  Personaly, I use delrin trucks (usually not sprung) and Intermountain or Bachmann metal wheelsets, with metal axles, and they do really great.  I measure and assign my locomotives by the amount of weight  (number of cars properly weighted) they can pull.  I try to mimic the real thing as much as I understand it.  (learning everyday too).  I have more than doubled the amount of rolling stock my locos can pull or push.  Thanks to the info I have received from this site.  Stephen

Depends on how you have the track tied in together.  If my assumptions are correct you may only need one reverse loop system (one reverse loop unit, two special reverse loop sections of track or just use the plastic track connectors as mentioned in the instructions)  Worth the money spent.  Check the Bachmann website for info.  Hope this helps.  Stephen

Amen!

Oops! Sorry ABC, didn't mean to step on you like that.  Guess we saw that at the same time.  Stephen

You do have a reverse loop connection.  Bachmann has a very simple but effective solution.  Purchase the Reverse Loop Module and wire it according to instructions.  I have two and they work fine with EZ Command and Dynamis.  Hope that helps a bit.  Stephen

You don't have to switch motors but just pay closer attention to your wiring that it doesn't get caught up in the motor.   I have set up a couple of Atlas in DCC.  They work pretty good.  I personally like the closed can motors myself, but with limited budget....I'll take what I can get!  Hope that helps some.  Remember, when setting up a loco for DCC, make sure the motor is isolated from the frame.  Stephen

jonathan,

don't sell yourself short.  Excellent job!  I am just learning to do the same thing myself and I do appreciate what you have accomplished.  Besides, they say really good carpenters just know how to hide their mistakes.  Stephen

It would be great if you didn't have to make the middle driver a blind one.  I love the little details and try to make the most accurate, working model I can.  Glad I could help.  Stephen

I have a J1 and the center drive axle is the only blind driver on mine.  I don't know if they made any other versions or not.  Hope that helps,  Stephen

all,  I would just love a Bachmann Spectrum Shay #6, WM.  I have most of the other Shay's to include a two truck version.  Brass versions of the Big #6 is still available at 1000.00 plus!  Can' t quite make that in the budget. 

Mr. Bach-mann, please toss that around with Mr. Riley and see what you can come up with.  Stephen

orangeman,  a lot of great info and opinions here.  My thing is I am a stickler for detail....but not that much either.  I try to make as much detail on all my rolling stock as well as my locomotives.  That is just what I like to do though.  That is a part of the hobby for me.  I also remove most of the molded on detail and apply the detail, usually with jigs I make myself.  I like to do that as well.  Most of the information I have received to get started in this hobby, came from this forum.  A lot of knowledge here.  Don't ever be afraid to ask!  With that said, the most important thing for rolling stock, whether expensive or cheap, is the couplers and the trucks.  My personal opinion is Kadee couplers, good plastic, non talgo trucks and Intermountain Wheel sets.  They are metal wheels and metall axles and insulated as well.  The number one thing to remember here is..it is your railroad and your preferences.  Hope that helps a bit and again don't be afraid to ask.   Stephen

lexon, Really!  I wouldn't have guessed that one.  I have several Climax trucks for HO and I have more 44 tonners than I really need. (Got carried away last summer)  I really like the 44 tonners.  First locomotive I ever engineered!  Long story, I'm not a loco engineer ....yet!  I would be interested in any information you have on converting 44 ton frame to Climax.  My personal email is richards@meer.net if you are interested in sharing the info.  Sincerely,  Stephen