Wow - there are several posts all about the trials and trib's of E-Z turnouts. As I have said before, I am just getting back into HO, and of my 10-12 Standard switches, only one has a small miss-allignment on 1 point. The new #4 switches are fine also.
One new thing that happened to me was this - all of a sudden, every time the train hit a particular switch(not the one mentioned above), off the rails it went - I was befuddled, as I had no problems up to this point. I then found the turnout green wire had moved some, and was 'jacking up' the side of the turnout - yep only about 1/16 + inch, but that was enough to cause the derail. I pulled the wire back to its little notch, and no more derails - soooo - obviously a level switch(side to side) is very important.

OK -this has to be for the Bach Man - I have been to my LHS several times, and my one discount Mail order store near Baltimore online, and HO EZ track Left Hand Standard Nickle Silver Switches are not happening, and have not happenned for at least a month, if not more. Whats going on? Do we have any dates of this stuff showing up?
Thanks - Tim

I just ran a short layout on RR Track - 7 22R curves, with a #5 RH, followed by a 1/2 piece of 22r curve is the closest one can get(the #4 switches have not been added into RR Track program yet) Even so, there will bee some fudging, as the switch is 12 degrees, a 22"r is 22.5 degrees. 22.5 minus 12 = 10 degrees. The 1/2 22"r curve is 11.25 degrees, thats 1.25 too much. In other words, they dont make a piece that allows what you want. Youd have to hand cut a 22"r curve, or fudge in the 11.25 curve - that is push the resulting minor crookedness of the straight side loop back into straightness. You would have to mess with it IRL in real life-

Hello- i have been sort of confused about these also. I am familiar and use basic(bachman) DCC. So I understand the little thing does it stuff, but what if you were running a two engine consist-does the switcheroo mess up the engine still milliseconds behind still on the regular section or is it indeed all plain magic? Just curious

AGGGG! So I went to the HELP section, and for posting pictures, it states that I can upload pictures right from my drive, but when I try to do this I get a message that no can do upload folder is full or pictures too large (they are 96kb) contact administrator or lower the size. First, the size is way below the 128 kb, second - i have yet to see how to contact an administrator.
Anyone have any help here?
I have 2 pix of my work so far but am stuck and frustrated - Tim

Be careful, the #5 & #6 are more known for issues, especially when they adjoin curves. See the 2 posts - the lengthier one is called Bachmann Turnouts, I think. The new #4's seem all right, and I think someone said the new DCC are all good. I had EZ a year and a half ago, and got so disgusted with the trains jumping the switches, I sold it all on the bay. Now I am trying it again, as I still like code 100 better. And my standard switches all run fine so far, along with my 2 #4's
Tim

WOW - that really looks great, thanks for the views. I sometimes think that an untapped area by the RR magazine people, is the need to produce a color softcove book, with just pictures and pictures of HO(ok, maybe some N too) towns, farms, stations, factories, whatever - but just all centered on the structures, instead of just the trains, for a change.
Great Pix!

So - I am working on building this kit(New River Mine), almost done. I have found that it is really more for the very experienced builder, as the instructions are poor for the size of kit that it is, and the bases do not really have a definitive edge to butt the walls against while building.

Anyway - I have painted the structure with Floquil water based Concrete, which looks nice, but left the roofing til last. The walls and roofing are the same construction- ribbed metal, and I was wondering if anyone has built one of these, and painted it, whether they painted it all one color, or painted the roofing silver? Just wondering. It seems I always have issues in my mind, deciding on color schemes with buildings

The problem is that with the #4 or #5 the straightaway is too long for this 4x6 layout.
You may be able to remove the inside LH, change it to an RH, with the curve going to the passtrack, and the straight now going to the siding. The siding will now go to the right instead of the left. This eliminates the huge reverse curve, BUT it adds in challenges due to the extra 1" or so added to the curve portion of the standard EZ switch.

atari - per the RR-Track software, the Standard Turnout of course is 30 degrees, the #5 is 12 degrees, #6 is 10 degrees, the wye is +- 6 degrees, and the #4 seems to be good at 12 degrees.
The 33.3r Curves come in a pack of 4ea, and have a 12 degree and a 6 degree, so they will match up with the #4, #5, (12 deg) and the wye (6 deg) - the #6 however is a pickle, as the only 10 degree curve available w/o cutting your own, is an 18"r curve, kinda violent after a #6.
Tim

Well - that lets me out

Well now that I have the pic down to 22 KB, the forum keeps saying error, what the world is going on with this thing anyway?

The upload folder is full. Please try a smaller file and/or contact an administrator.

Hello - so I took the challenge and got it - 4x7 Morgan using EZ track and the RR track software system.
Remember-Bachmann has added several new small fitter pieces, as well as a small 60 Xing, which may not be in your program library.
Now if I can figger out how to show the picture --- I cant get it down to the dumb 128 kb

Tim

I am not real good with shells, but felt the need to share here - What you first need, is to list the brand name of the loco (Athearn, Bachman, Atlas etc) They are all different in how the shell comes off. After that, someone with 'shell rmvl' expertise may chime in with a solution - Tim

Okay - I went back to the new layout IP, and put the pair of #4 in place, fudged the track to reconnect the main line (used some small pieces, left a 1/8" gap) then took the 2 pieces of 33.3R 12 degree - ahh-well first you have to saw off an angle cut from the 2.25 straight, in order to connect it to the diverge, then connected the 12 degree curves, some straights, along with another fudged in connection (i was out of 4.5,3.0 sizes, this siding leaving a pair of 1/8" gaps(made nice clickety-clack tho) and found the 12 degree curves are close enough to work, the MTH F3 w/sound traversed through fine, with 5 cars behind, and all is well. Now gotta get more short track to fix up all the 1,1.25,1.5, & 2" pieces shoved together

Thanks for the input!